One thing leads to another...

I started this project by trying to figure out why my drivers door wouldn't open from the INSIDE. I had new door actuator mechanisms so I installed those. Still no door operation from the inside. I finally figured out that my door panels were warped just enough to allow the door panel to keep the rod from actuating the mechanism. When I had the door panel off, the inner door pull worked like a charm. So I figure I’m in there, I might as well replace some things. I replace all the door rubber and fuzzies, the end cap, and pull the outer door handle. For the outer door handle I get new nylon/plastic actuators and McMark’s metal seal for the key cylinder.

Here’s where the problems start. I pull the key cylinder for the door and clean it up. I re-lube and re-assemble. Before putting the cylinder back in, I check it with the key installed in the cylinder. Half of the ‘wafers’ are sticking up. Great, whoever replaced the outer door handle didn’t re-key it, no wonder the key wouldn’t lock and unlock the doors (not to mention the 39 year old grease, which is why I was cleaning and re-lubing to begin with). So I think, I can remedy this, let me pull the ignition cylinder and figure out what the wafer sequence is. So I do that and write all that down. Now I realize, I don’t have enough of the correct wafers from the driver’s door to re-key it. No problem, I got this. I’ll pull the passenger outer door handle and pull some of the wafers from it. So I pull the passenger outer door handle and cylinder. What’s in there??? NO wafers at all!! So now I’m just pissed at the previous owner for doing something so stupid. But wait, I can get to the trunk cylinder pretty easily, I’ll pull that one. What’s in there??? NO wafers again!! WTF?? So I figure, I’ll pull the glove box door lock. I do that and grab the wafers and install on the driver’s door, everything works perfectly now. Except that now I need wafers for THREE lock sets (the passenger door handle, the trunk and the glove box).

I also notice that when I pull the passenger door handle, that the end piece of the lock cylinder and the spring underneath it are missing. Instead of the spring and end piece, there is no spring and a metal screw JB Welded onto a washer that was screwed into the lock cylinder (with the wrong screw of course).

Now that I’m done venting, I’m off to the classifieds to post for some lock cylinder parts. Not to mention looking for some straight door panels…

If I didn’t love these care this much, this wouldn’t be fun!

Post. There's a member here that sells lock kits. Sure someone will point them out.

I don't remember who was selling the rekeying kits, but do you really need all the pins in the lock? I seem to think that you could get by with less than a full set if needed.

I thought about less pins in some of the locks, but if I need to get some, I may as well get enough to do them all correctly!

Are you sure about the rod being the original problem? I managed to render my interior door handle inoperative simply by putting a screw into the cover behind the handle that was slightly too long. I swapped the window crank screw and the handle backing screw. Drove me crazy for several weeks until I figured it out.

--DD

I would buy some locks off Ebay or from someone dismantling in the classifieds. You don't actually need the correct pins to make this work. Install all the pins you have to minimize the heights they protrude above the tumbler. Stick the key in the tumbler and take a small metal file and gently file all the protruding pins flat, that's it. I would find the key that works with the ignition and use that key as the master if you just want to cary only one. Of course this wont be original, believe one key acted as a valet type set up for ignition only.

The original was two keys. A black one thats for everything, and a red one that only fits ignition and doors.

IIRC, MarkB bought a tumbler kit from Mark (I forgot your handle here) in Boerne, TX. Check with him for parts if you feel comfortable doing it yourself. If not, take them to a locksmith. Last resort; file 'em down. When working with "old" tumblers it is sometimes necessary as the tumblers get worn, also. You can pm me if you get stuck.

Thanks all. I could go the route of just filing down what I have (or leaving out what I don't have). But for three cylinders, that wouldn't leave me with many wafers to put into each tumbler. I figure I may as well do it right. I can't imagine someone charging an arm and a leg for some wafers and springs.

@Dave: I put the bezel back on the inner door handle and screwed it down when checking this. It would still work as long as the door panel was off. Someone down the line had made some repairs to the back of the door panel. They tried fiberglassing it and the area of the fiberglass is now raised (if you're looking at the back of the door panel). That raised area is what is contacting the rod.

So...drivers door is done and working perfectly (without a door panel, which I'll also need to put a WTB in the classifieds for). But before I can button up the passenger door and the trunk, I'll need to get those wafers and springs!

Might try this guy. Did a good job on re keying my Jetta handles and trunk lock. $35.00, and that was including the return shipping.

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/forum/viewtopic.php?t=212848

If you need a tumbler re-pinned shoot me a PM
I have 100s of pins to do this operation