Hi,

I just pulled the 1.7 out of the 70 i've been putting new floors in. I had planned to run it for a while. This is not gonna happen. I've never had an engine that was moldy internally. The crank is seized, the cam is seized. Im sure it was full of water at some point.

Anyway, I'd like to put together a dependable motor that is more in the 7.5 seconds 0 -60 MPH range. I have multiple 1.7 engines and a 1.8 engine sitting around. I'd rather just build a good motor now than trust another unknown bottom end. Djet, Ljet or carbs are fine.

So, with that; anyone care to share a good build list/recipe for such a beast?

Thanks,
Paul

1911 Thread

Good place to start in attached thread....and Good Luck!

lots of $$$$$$$$

Since you have multiple cores, i'd go with a 2056 and a somewhat aggressive cam.

That will really wake up your car ...

who does the aggressive cams? which ones for a mild torque increase on a 1.7 or a 2.0?

The cheapest alternative may be an LS engine swap. Lots of torque and reliable!

Web cam, or Type-4 Store (Jake Raby), but you'll need to study up and engineer what you're planning on building so it runs correctly.

Do the 1911 build, you'll be happy. You'll be happier with a 2056, but it's going to cost a lot more.

Thanks everyone! I read through the recommended posts and most of Mr. Raby's information. More questions:

Any relative cost differences between the 1911 and 2056? Is the 2056 20% more, 50%, etc?

Would you do a full dynamic balance on these motors if the revs are kept under 7K RPM?

What are the experiences with ceramic crown coatings, both in terms of head temp reductions and longevity?

Has anyone tried heat rejection coatings on the external head surfaces?

Thanks,
Paul

For a 2056 you need the crank out of a 2.0.

It's not super expensive to find. Maybe $500. But there are hidden costs - which you might need to do anyway. Bearings for nonstandard sizes are hard to find. Crank and case may both need fitting, but that will mean nonstandard bearings.

Zach

Joe O'Brien (Series9) is selling a 2L std/std crank for a $200. and a set of fresh 2L rods for another $100.

Click here


... and for the $75. or so, yes, having the rotating assembly balanced is well worth it