How easy is it to rebuild a starter motor?? Or is it better to just get another one?? Any one done it?

In the big cities there are still starter and generator shops. Google?
I'm thinking the same right now. I'm getting the occasional hung starter syndrome.

If someone has done this at home let us know.

I have done this a time or two.
Usually in order to be able to sell a car quickly.

If you are fairly handy, you can do it.
finding the bushings and brushes is the hardest part.

A quick look at youtube showed quite a few videos that will be quite a bit more effective than me trying to describe it here.

It can be done but you need a growler or other means to properly test the armature for shorts and sometimes the area the brushes ride on needs to be surfaced.Oh,by the way, I have a unused rebuilt starter done by my friend at Jodys Starter and Alternator here in Mineral Well,Texas.I would take $75 for it plus $14 shipping.It is in the classifieds if you want to see the pictures.Carl

yep!
on my back in the mud on the 4x4 trail a couple of times to clean out the mud and gunk to get it to work again....

but that was in the old jeep.

I had my starter & alternator professionally rebuilt for $150 for both near home in KC area. The did a great job and looks like new.Click to view attachment

How funny that's even a question, shows how times have changed. We re-built wheel cylinders, master cylinders, turned brake drums, built starters and generators. Have you tried to buy a 914 MC rebuild kit lately? Things are different.

It isn't hard to do, the only obstacle (assuming all the parts are available, I don't know) is turning the armature to clean it up. Hint, in the old days cheap was to chuck it up and use emery cloth. It'll never be flat, but the brushes are soft, will figure it out and seat eventually, right? Seriously, you're better off buying a rebuilt, practice on the core to see if you can get through it, then decide if you want to return it as a core or use it and return the rebuilt.

Oh, and report back, if you don't mind. I'm curious to hear how it goes.

I have had the starter apart now...Although, after cleaning and checking brushes, the starter turns...the shaft doesnt pop out.....

Any idea what needs to be checked? The motor seems to spin really well. I cant see any obstructions. That metal plate inside the sloenoid isnt moving up to meet the contacts. I have tested both on the car (with all connections, and off the car..).

I haven't done the 914 starter but have done a lot of other starters. The solenoid will have a small wire on the energize terminal from the start circuit. The large terminal is the one the battery cable is on. When that terminal gets 12vs it energizes the solenoid coil. When the coil pulls the plunger in the brass or copper washer makes the contacts that causes the starter to spin. This is a high amperage contact to give the starter is turning torque. Ohm out the winding in the solenoid to see if it is good. A old patch was to flip the big copper washer over and turn the big contacts around as they would be worn down but that only fixes the spin part. Be careful you don't break the terminals wires on the inside off from the terminals. The solenoids I have repaired have square holes the the large terminals fit into in the bakelite housing.

Check the bushings and the shaft where they run to see about wear. If needed replace the bushings. If you have to replace the shaft (and armature) just put it back together and return it as a core. Check the armature for wear and deep grooves, too much and it's a core. Chuck the armature so it's steady and lay a strip of 200-250 emery cloth around 180 degrees of it to clean it up. Careful not to touch the wires connecting to the windings when you're turning it or you have a core. CAREFULLY clean the gaps between the copper segments of the armature so there's nothing there that can short between the segments. Rebuilders run a thin rotary disc saw blade there to make sure the gap is clean down below the copper blocks. Look at all the wiring and check each group of windings with an ohmmeter to make sure they're all equal, intact and not shorted. I ALWAYS replace the solenoid. That's not a command, some people don't but I think it's good practice, I swear nothing else fails as much, so if you can replace it better. Same with the bendix, actually, but if the gear is good you can clean and re-lube the shaft and pins. If not get a new one. New brushes, be sure to replace the springs, flip the thrust washer as Charlie suggested (I'd forgotten that trick, it's been a while), inspect everything again. Touch 12v to the solenoid (but NOT to the threads, it will arc) to make sure it engages the bendix, spins, and everything's smooth. Before putting it back into place you should also check the teeth on the ring gear to make sure there isn't too much wear there.

Keys to decide if it's a core or not is how much wear is seen in the initial inspection. Then can you get all the parts? Really? And last, if all else fails or if you screw it up (and the big rebuilders HATE that) then buy a rebuilt and that worthless one goes back in the box as a core.

That's a generic list from memory, but it should be good. If you need something more specific you should be able to find procedures in old shop manuals. I don't have any, but ask and I'm sure someone does.