Well, After attempting a few solutions at shutting up my webers, I came to the conclusion that they're never going to be as quiet as a FI setup. So, here goes nothing I suppose. The plan is to start collecting parts, run the system on a test motor out of the car, then convert the car over to Meqsaquirt over the course of a couple weekends.

I searched for a few threads, and this sounds an awful lot like what Zach was going to do on his motor, but instead of a MAP, I'm going to be running a MAF. I don't want this to become a debate about MAP vs. MAF. I understand the advantages/disadvantages to both, and have decided to run a MAF . I will only be running the fuel/air side of the megasquirt at this time. I have an awesome distributor and ignition system, and right now, I see no need to run crankfire ignition.


Some questions... :

What version of Megasquirt have others purchased to run on their type 4s? Which is version is ideal for running a MAF on?
Are there any high impedence injectors that fit in the stock intake runner bosses?


Hopefully I can start collecting parts as soon as possible. I'm really excited to start building everything. I'm one of those people that like to do everything themselves, so this should be fun..hopefully..


Any advice on all of this would be much appreciated!

I use microsquirt for its compact size and weatherproof housing. I've used it with a MAF and it was really easy to set up. I think I have a spare MAF if you're interested. I don't normally use MAF because I like to keep a stock look as possible and have been happy with the MAP. I found high impedance stock injectors. They're about $400 for the set, but based on my research that's not out of line. I would love to find cheaper ones, but haven't been able to yet.

Then maybe microsquirt would be the way to go. My situation right now is that i really dont want to be blazing new trails for this stuff, but i definetely want to run a MAF.

So to run Microsquirt with a MAF id need:
-new throttle body
-MAF
-High impedance injectors
-microsquirt controller
-trigger wheel/hall effect sensor
-cht for warm up/cold start
-wideband o2 sensor

Am i missing anythink mark?

Do tell...

When I was runing MS1 I also found that MAF was the way to go. I used a Ford MAF
sensor in series with the intake . A stock FI induction set up will work fine as long as the MAF is series with the air intake, it should have about 1 volt output at idle to keep it with in the MAF linear range.

I used MSII V3.57 on my engine with all stock sensors. With the MS harnesses and relay board it was very easy to install and get running.
You dont really need high impedance injectors, there is a PWM setting in MS that regulates current to low impedance injectors, but i have heard you can get a better tune with high. You could also run no PWM and just put an L-jet resistor pack in line and acheive a similar result.

I installed the MS2 v3.57 running with the map. It's important to get a version that can run the MS Extra Firmware to be able to use extended temp settings for air cooled engines. Otherwise your temp range will be for a water cooled vehicle.

Also, High impedance are very expensive for the stock runners but are not necessary if you use a resistor pack. I got one from a Honda off of EvilBay for like 20.00. All the injectors wire up to it and you can tune fine.

If you have a good ignition system then even easier to install but you can also install a Hall sensor just so you can use the pulse for injector timing and keep your dizzy.

IMO the crank fire setup is best so you can build your table to keep the engine in the idle range easier. You can also update to that later.

Good luck

What is your reasoning for using the maf??? Every maf system I have ever used goes shitty eventually, maf's get dirty... Why not do alpha -n instead since you refuse to use speed density... But really what's your hesitation to using the map sensor that megasquirt was designed around? And I'm not trying to start an awful debate... Just wondering.

I have a Carb cam in my motor with a lot of overlap, and a VERY uneven vacuum signal. I have heard horror stories about people taking a really long time to get VE tables established on an ex-carbed motor running a MAP. I don't see this being a huge deal on big v8's because there are twice as many cylinders, so you can achieve a much more steady signal at low RPM.

Overall, my understanding is that a MAF will run way smoother, which is what I'm after.

There is a reason ALL modern EFI cars run a MAF.

You should see the difference between the two on your motor in this case. As in it would be really cool to see some Datalogs of both modes maf vs map... Just even if only an idle for the sake of comparing signals.. Granted if you get a micro, instead of a megasquirt it won't come with the onboard map... And you'd need a additional sensor for said test.

You don't need a new throttle body.

Is that because there's no need to run a TPS with a MAF? I'm learning as I go here, so sorry for the stupid questions...

If configured correctly, the more sensors the better. If configured poorly, the more sensors the bigger headache.

A TPS will give you a little better off idle performance than with just a MAF. The MAF does a great job at calculating the amount of air through the motor.

can you use map AND tps? my motor cycle uses map for part throttle and tps for everything above part throttle. map is used for its high resolution at part throttle im guessing.

You can run without a TPS but like the previous post, it will be slightly hesitant from the start. A TPS will make a big difference if you plan on hitting it hard some times.

The cool thing about MS is that if your TPS goes tits up, you can still run your car. If your CHT goes tits up, you can still run your car, not optimally but it will still run and just use the VE table without any correction for temp.

I used a TPS from a 1985 5 series BMW with an AT transmission. It bolts right on and if you can get the harness with it that is even better. It uses a circular 6 pin connector but you only need three of them. If you use a newer TPS you may have to create a mounting plate to off set the mounting screws.

You should check out DIYautotune

I'm remembering the Carb Clinic at Mark's event a few month's back and thinking to myself, "Wouldn't this be fascinating if "someone" were able to put on a mini clinic or "intro to" MegaS, RomRaider or any other after market ECU's and their related tune/reflash programs." I try to read up on this stuff but to tell the truth I think this market is advancing faster than I am catching up. Between you and your Dad I'm sure you'll figure it all out in one afternoon. Hi Jack out.

That wouldn't be a bad idea Kent, but to be honest, My dad has NO idea how these aftermarket EFI setups work.. I don't want to say he's computer illiterate, but he's pretty dang close... So this one is all on me... haha

I didn't mean to say you don't need a TPS. Just that you don't need a new throttle body. You can get a TPS that works with the stock throttle body.

Guess how I feel trying to figure out all the abbreviations and acronyms everybody is using!

Go slow and take your time. It may take you more than two w/e's to get it running. Especially if you plan on using 36-1 wheel for timing.

There is a Ford TPS avail. (not sure which model) that fits the throttle body perfect. All you need to do is build a mounting plate.

Microsquirt will work fine but you have to add a MAP sensor ( at least the old version did).

I used 21lb/hr,High imp. injectors out of a ford Probe.I made a bracket and a fuel rail. The bottoms fit the intake runners nice. I changed the fuel pump to run a 43psi system which the injectors were rated for.

got the injectors at pick and pull for like 20 bucks. fuel rails are cheap and the brackets were easy to make.

I would suggest running the stock dizzy until you get the hang of using the system. Then change over to a trigger wheel.

Start simple and work into it.

If your just needing to quiet your carbs due to the sonic noise that the Webers create you could always create an intake manifold like the original 6 manifold. It would definately be an option you haven't thought of yet. The original European 4 had something similar with the dual solex carb setup I think.

kid,

Here's the details on my older MS V2.2 build on my 2.0L. Here's the link also.

Heres what I'm using for a Web 73 Cam:

• Stock Ait Temp Sensor #1
• Stock Cyl-Head Temp Sensor #2
• Stock Injectors - 380cc/min (36.2lb/hr)
• Stock Ignition (points) & Bosch Blue coil
• Stock Relay Board (- Cold Start power, & Fuel pump pwr routed thru MS)
• Bosch Throttle switch 0 280 122 001
• MegaSquirt V2.2 board
• MegaSquirt Relay Board (not shown)
• 4x - 6ohm/10watt resistors in-line with the resistors
• No O2 sensor - running Open Loop
• Modified pilot hole on TPS valve to balance idle

Sure I can dig up more details if needed.

Where did you get the pigtail for the tps?

Don't recall where I got the TPS connector. I'm sure I found something on the internet. IIRC that TPS was used on a variety of vehicles, and I know I located a new one. Here's a part number: Bosch 1 237 000 039 3-pin connector