I just bought Jake Raby's Type 4 rebuild video. I'm not sure if I'm going to need to rebuild my engine, but guessing that I probably will at some point. Princess Auto (Canada's Harbor Freight) has a couple of engine stands, one of which (the 1,250lb) is going on 50% off next week. Which one of these would be the better one to get (the 1,000lb will likely go on 50% sale before I would need it, so I can wait)? It looks to me like the 1,000 might be easier to work on because the legs wouldn't be in the way of where one would be standing (please see the links below).

Also, I know nothing about these matters, so will the yoke that is needed for the VW engines work on these stands?

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/42...lb-Engine-Stand

http://www.princessauto.com/pal/product/42...lb-Engine-Stand

TIA

http://m.summitracing.com/parts/sum-918011

Yes, the standard VW yoke should work on the stands. Check the Samba for the engine yokes.

You can get the large Harbor Freight for in the $40's with their 20% discount when it's on sale. . I then bought a 3 arm Porsche head on Ebay for $65 Very secure and not tippy

Looks just like this >>>

http://www.ebay.com/itm/PORSCHE-VW-3-ARM-E...6da&vxp=mtr

For the price the harbor freight 1000 lbs stand is hard to beat. I have bought about 6 of them. Some have even been used as engine stands!
The 700lbs (three wheels) are tippy. The 1000lbs have 4 wheels and are more stable.

The yolk you want to get from the guy off Samba. The yolk that come in the stand block SUCKS. The 2 prong VW yolk is dangerous. The Samba yolk cost ~65 and is rally excellent.

Zach

This may be a dumb question but after you drop an engine; how do you attach it to the stand?

With/without trans? exhaust

Thanks, guys. The problem with Summit and Harbor Freight is the shipping charge to Canada. The 1,000lb in the link I provided in my first post looks like the one on summit's page and has four wheels. It will likely go on sale for 50% off before I need it so I'll hold tight for that.

What is "the Samba?" Is that the same yoke as the one on Ebay linked above?

@Gary, I'm the last person who should answer your question, but the transmission and exhaust are removed. I'd also like to see a write-up that shows us newbies to engine work how to mount the engine to the yoke etc.

I've never used the VW tool. The Porsche yoke has four support arms instead of the VW tool that has three.

Here's a link to some engine stand alternatives at Pelican.

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopca..._PTOOLS_pg2.htm

Standard engine stands can be used but the main advantage to a Porsche yoke is that it attaches to only one side of the engine case. On a six that means you attach it to the side with the oil pump and you can spin separate the case halves easily with one of them free to be lifted exposing the crank as well. Getting the engine onto the stand?

Generally you take separate the trans from the engine and attach the yoke. Then lift the engine (i.e with an engine hoist) up to the level of the stand and plug it in. That works with the Porsche yoke. If you use a "standard" yoke it'll likely be too close to the engine to have access to the flywheel and it may interfere with the pressure plate as well. There are flywheel locks to do crankshaft work as well.

Everything's easier with the Porsche yoke. If you have room for it on your bench, there is a bolt-down piece the yoke will plug into. It can also be used on a stand built to bolt it onto.

The downside is it's expensive at roughly $300 for the yoke by itself. But it can be used with a standard engine stand even though the yoke is a little too small for it.

If I were only gonna do one engine... or even two, I'd likely modify a standard stand/yoke and use a VW ring adapter instead of buying a Porsche yoke. More engines? Get the real thing.

Good luck

The 3 arm yoke is fine, , the 2 arm ones [typical VW ones] don't have the circular base plate. . that is what gives it the strength. . .
they bolt onto the trans mount studs. . you'll need the trans bolts and make some pipe spacers to fit the length of the bolts. .
the EBay one I listed is the same place as the Samba guys. .
I used the 4 wheel Harbor Freight Base. . DO NOT GET THE 3 WHEEL ONE. . .it will tip over easily/

This is what I've got - an adapter for the regular stand.

Any way you go, make sure that the engine stands on the circular lip around the flywheel housing. The 2 arm stands that only hold the engine from the bolt holes are prone to fail and concentrate all the force in a single small location. I've seen a lighter bug engine case broken by the stand when one of the arms collapsed and the other broke the engine case hole that was connected to.

Click to view attachment

http://www.thesamba.com/vw/

It's like 914world just focused on VWs as a whole.

That's very helpful, thanks guys.

Yeah. I was posting from my phone earlier so it was a bit vague. Sorry about that.

Your post was clear and helpful; I just didn't know about The Samba.

So today I finally picked up an engine stand (Big Red 1,000 lb, with 4 wheels). Is the seller on the Samba from Oregon the one that is recommended to go with? He has both 3 arm and 5 arm yokes (links below). The 5 arm is $20 more. Is there a significant advantage, or even disadvantage, to the 5 arm?

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=606310

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=956239

And I see he also has a 4 arm...

https://www.thesamba.com/vw/classifieds/detail.php?id=606308

a little fab 'l do ya

Remove the muffler and bracket, then separate the transmission. Bolt the yoke onto the engine. Then you can either lift it onto the stand with a few strong people...or use a small hoist/shop crane. I usually do it solo with a HF 1 ton folding crane, a webbed lifting strap and a length of chain. Slip the loops of a strap on each end of the engine bar, and wrap a length of chain around the top arm of the yoke. Adjust the length of chain so the hook is pretty much directly above the throttle body. Then loop it all directly through the crane hook or onto a carabiner first. A leveler helps, but not totally necessary if you go slow and guide the engine as you lift.

I have pics somewhere. Will look for them and post.

Be safe and good luck!

Edit: pics added...
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

the engine hoist is ideal. but if you won't use it much, you can sink an eye bolt into the door frame above your garage door and use a cable come-a-long to lift the engine. I have used this method many times and it works just fine. Also worked for removing outboard engines and outdrives. lifting the garden tractor etc.

The come-along / ratcheting winch is a great idea! My crane folds so it doesn’t take up a lot of space. But the come along would be less of a dance trying to get the crane and stand close enough without their legs interfering. Thanks!

Thanks for the pics, Ian.

Anybody have comments on which way to go re the Samba guy's yokes (see my post above for links)?

I would prefer the 3 ARM one. It's strong enough and the access to the flywheel bolts and oil seal is better.

I have the 4 arm one, which you can see in the pic. But I'm sure the 3 arm one is fine and probably does make some things easier/more accessible.

Thanks very much for the feedback guys...3 arm it is.

I have the 3-arm on an HF 1000 lb. stand. Seems plenty strong to me.

I was cheap and bought the Empi $39 unit on Amazon, I wouldn't trust it with a /6 or a high dollar /4 build as is.