Hey guys haven't been on in a while, but I finally have everything sorted out on the car. I have it running. At first it ran and idled and revved great. Now , not so much. The car is back on all four wheels after changing the rear wheel bearings and now, she starts up idles, smokes a lot and barley revs past 2k rpms. I can not figure out whats wrong and I'm trying to avoid going to a shop. I did notice that there is oil in the intake and they when the breather line from the oil filler is removed it doesn't smoke. I was hoping you experienced guys could help me out maybe you had a similar problem. Ill create another page posting pics of the car. I love the 914 and i'm glad to be apart of the 914 world now. Hope you guys can help, thank you so much in advance! -Nico

Post some more details on your engine.

Do you still have the stock FI or are you using carbs?

have you cleaned out the fuel tank and fuel lines?

Could be a fuel supply problem.

John

1972 porsche 1.7l. I do have the stock FI system, the gas tank was cleaned out abd there is all new fuel lines. Could it be the fuel pump?? I mean it works, but maybe no enough power?

If it won't rev past 2k I think you have a timing issue not a fuel one. Did you do anything else to it? Are all cylinders firing?

I would recommend starting with a compression & leak-down test. you'll want a baseline on the state of the engine.

It sounds like you may have excessive blow-by, worn rings piston ect...

If you not have already done so, check base timing, valve adjust & make sure all engine venting (pcv) is clear & hooked up properly

Hey guys im still stuck on this. The engine starts up and idles low. When I take the line off the PCV valve idle goes up to normal. When I rev it it still revs slow, but its not burning oil. When I hook that line back up ,which by the way is sucking in A LOT of air, it idles back to low again and when i rev it it burns an excessive amount of oil . I hope we can get this going I really wanna drive this car bad. Btw if I switch over to carbs could this problem with my fuel system/ pcv valve be fixed?

I dont recommend carbs you will just get other problems. It really sounds like a valve problem. give it a good valve adjustment and check the timing and dwell as is outlined in the Haynes manual it is simple and quick and will rule out those problems. i dont have much experience with FI so it will be up to another to help with the PCV valve issue.

Cht wire disconnected?

If the CHT is disconnected, the engine won't start or start and idle really rough and not rev up.

But, it would also smell like fuel from the exhaust ...

Valves + check proper timing.

CHT can be easy to miss

Did you have the plug wires removed at the cap? If you did check rotation of dizzy and wire accordingly.

what is the firing order and placement of the spark plugs on the distributor. i think its all messed up.

Firing order is 1-4-3-2 and the rotor spins clockwise as you look at it.

Fix and Stick with the FI.

when you disconnect the PCV valve, you say it runs better, could it be you have a hose routing issue? Does it still blow alot of oil smoke when disconnected?

Is there a huge amount of air blowing out of the crank case?

I check the basics first (timing, valve clearance, etc.) but it might be an simple issue.

Good luck and post pix

when I pull the hose from the pcv valve off at the intake manifold it sucks in a lot of air. when I plug up that hole thats when it blows out smoke. i think my firing order is messed up so ill give that a try. it runs right now but i think its still wrong.

after valve adjustment and timing, also make sure the fuel injection wires aren't criscrossed. Timing is huge. I gained several HP even though mine idled and ran well, it ran REALLY well when I got the timing dialed in. I think our old fuel injected square back did this when the heads overheated and cracked at the spark plug threads?
Your fuel injection pump pressure regulator should be around 28-30 psi.

Take it to Tangerine Racing and Chris Foley, he will sort it out in no time.

hes way to expensive for me

I was able to get the engine timed and everything was going good. I pulled her out of my garage and literally got out of the car to find a lot of oil poring out of the bottom of it for no reason what so ever. It has never done this and now im kinda bummed out it happened. It appeared to be coming out in between the engine and transmission and it was definitely oil.

You'd be surprised. Chris is the most knowledgeable guy in your area and he is an excellent teacher. Your money would be well spent just learning something from him. If nothing else, he would probably at least help you diagnose it for a low fee and you can try to fix it on your own.

Just read your last post. That sounds like a rear main seal blew out to me... when it rains, it pours.

Ugh, sounds like main seal, was it motor oil?

Sorry, you need to resolve that issue before moving on.

yes motor oil

Good news is, it's not all that hard to do with the right tools. You need the seal, aluminum "crush" ring/washer, new pilot bearing, o-ring, felt washer, and 5 flywheel bolts as well as a flywheel lock (cheap on Ebay). Support the engine and drop the transmission. Remove the flywheel, pilot bearing and old seal. Install new seal, pilot bearing, and all the new hardware then the transmission. Should be able to get it done in a weekend and you'll be

There are also a cam plug and oil galley plug behind the flywheel. They will pour lots of oil if they come out.

Galley plugs sounds right. They can be done with threaded plugs without tearing down the engine but sounds like you've got your hands full now..

Yes, this is a "Saturday" job that you can do!

Also make sure you have the socket for the CV joint bolts and new CV Joint seals as you'll kill the old ones.

Good luck and let us know what problems you run into.