Continuing with my shifting woes, I noted that the inside of my tunnel is covered in surface rust. The tubes all seem to be in good shape and still attached. But the rust must be addressed.

Given the space and access limitations physical removal option are limited. So I think I will need a chemical treatment option. I am familiar with PO-15. I was wondering if anyone had suggestions on any other treatment options?

I have heard good stuff about Eastwood internal frame coating.

http://www.eastwood.com/internal-frame-coa...ray-nozzle.html

I just ordered some the other day. I will be using it for the same thing you are.

I have also heard of people using Por-15 Prep-&-Ready (metal ready) in a regular household spray bottle.

http://www.por15.com/PREP-READY/productinfo/MRG/

I have no first hand experience with either of these. They are just what I found with some research.

Hope this helps

I am in the same boat. Since you are there might as well check the clutch tube and check if it has separated from the tunnel weld. That is what lead me address the tunnel rust as well. I got the following from the Q/A for metal. So I am thinking it is not so suited for the tunnel since it needs to be washed off or is the white powder after it dries is ok ?? I mean geez once you spray the metal ready in the tunnel how the heck you going to dry it out. The eastwood product may be better suited. Thats just my thoughts.

"Must I wash off the Metal-Ready after using it?
Yes. Otherwise, a powdery residue will be left after the metal dries. This can be removed with a wet rag or by
hosing it off. After washing off the treated Metal-Ready surface, dry it with warm air (hair dryer) or with towels,
etc. Flash rust could appear if the surface isn't dried quickly, but your first coat of POR-15 will remove it and adhesion
will actually be enhanced because of the flash rust. Remember, POR-15 can be painted right over rust.

I used Eastwoods "Internal Frame Coating" with the extension nozzle on the tunnel after a partial replacement. I saw it as my best option to get into all the nooks & crannies. I can't speak to how effective it is long term, but the application was pretty smooth.

I would buy 2 cans for the tunnel area. The extension nozzle releases a lot of product!

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great coverage and works great. Just know it flows everywhere and if your car is not headed for a repaint I recommend you do a lot of prep. to keep it off other parts of the car.

Look up SEM Rust Cure and Rust Mort. . I used both on my car. . the rust Cure doesn't need to be neutralized or washed off. . penetrates seams to get hidden areas. . Ready to paint.

http://www.semproducts.com/product-catalog...sion/rust-seal/

Do you have a good place to buy them from ?

Best place for most people to get is Tri City Paints. . mail order if you don't have a close local branch

Wow, really 2 cans, even with careful prep and sealing ?

I've used SEM Rust Mort pretty exclusively over the years, but I tried the Eastwood internal frame spray in the tunnel after seeing Andy's post last year. The tunnel came out OK ... planning to do inside the longs next.

Looks like some good shit...

MSDS says it has a Narcotizing affect... Kids, line up to buy this for your paper bag...

I have no idea how well it works on rust...

So how many can is needed for the tunnel only, Mark ?

I don't think I even use a whole can, Ted.

Take everything out of the tunnel, shifter, shift rod, heater lever & all the cables, etc. vacuum any debris from the tunnel.

Insert the spray tube in the shifter hole all the way forward, spray as you pull the tube back towards the hole, then insert the tube all the way rearward and finish up the rear section the same way.

"Wow, really 2 cans, even with careful prep and sealing ?"

Yes. I applied the product liberally & ran the extension wand in between the firewalls on both sides too. It doesn't last long with the extension nozzle.

I used the stuff too. Get 4 cans and do the longs too. Under the headlight (eye sockets) looks to be hard to get to as well. I too am curious how well it will work. I do know that if you get it on something you didn't mean to and don't clean it quickly, it will not come off. I keep watching for an Eastman sale on the stuff. It ain't cheap.

Easy to use stuff. If you don't use the whole can at one time, put the nozzle and tube on a can of carb or brake cleaner and clean it out.

Here's an older thread about this.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...eatment+process

Oh, I'd definitely recommend picking up more than one can (I purchased 4) ... try to grab it when it's on sale