Yesterday was the first time I've noticed this problem.... Wouldn't go into 5th gear. Felt vague, sounded like it wanted to grind.

At the rear where the end of the shift rod connects to the lever on the tranny, there is some slop. See photo below, is there anything missing, or is it just worn?

Looks worn.

My wife's wouldn't go into 5th when we first acquired it, but new bushings and some adjustments took care of it. The rear bushing was missing altogether.

Here's another pic looking straight up. There's almost a 1/4" of slop in the fore/aft movement. I can see obvious wear, but it's so much I thought there must be something missing.

I have been looking for threads about refurbishing this. If anyone knows of one, I'd appreciate a link. I'd also love to see pics of what a freshly refurbished one is supposed to look like.

I looked for bushing kits at Pelican, but the only piece I could see for this area was the ball. Is that really all that gets replaced? I'm still hung up on the gaps between the "finger" and "fork" or whatever those parts are called. What is normal there?

Yes, the end of selector shaft coming out of the tranny looks worn out. You need to remove the steel plate (4 bolts) at the bottom of the nose cone and press out a roll pin to get the old shaft out. (it's a good idea to replace the shaft seal if you go this route (part # 900-112-029-50-OEM).

There are three 'do-nut bushings: one at the rear of the rear shift rod, one at the firewall and another one under the shift lever. The 'do-nuts' are only for the shift rod(s). All three are identical (same part # 914-424-224-00-M260, the front one is # 22 in this diagram)
Click to view attachment

The one for the firewall is # 31 in this diagram
Click to view attachment

I couldn't find a diagram for the bushing at the rear, but you'll figure out where it goes (in the cup right above your red arrow in your pic).



There is also one ball socket cup bushing, (part # 911-424-139-00-M260 CUP, # 11 in this diagram)
Click to view attachment


There are also two ball type bushings (part # 914-424-512-00-M260), the red 'thingies in this diagram.
Click to view attachment

Here's the Pelican tech article Click Here

Good luck ...

After having a welder to fill in the wear on my -72 I can just get a 0,2mm feeler gauge in between the finger and fork on all contact points. Shifting was much improved after doing this and replacing the bushings.

However (like the Pelican article notes) replacing the two balls at the firewall may not add any improvment since the new balls have slightly LESS diameter than the original ones. I have traced these balls from two different vendors but sadly both are smaller...I solved it by lining the inside of the tubes in which the balls go with some thin sheet of brass, lets see how long it lasts.


/Lars S

Dang, that is sloppy. Some great advise here If there was a market for it, I would offer refurbished tail shifter parts with new metal added in. So far, not any interest other than one here and there.

Let me know if you want me to do this. Also, the finger in the tail cone, on the shift rod under the cover palate can use some attention as you will be in there anyway. The "dong" that shifts the rods inside the box could use attention, but then you have to remove the stack and that takes more effort than most are interested in.

If you do as others have described here, you should be good to go.

As for the small balls, I bet I could turn a better ball on my lathe out of delrin or nylon.

You've Got Big Balls?

.......Ya, I echo something missing + WORN