Hi,

I'm wondering if there's an "easy" way to remove the rubber brake lines. I can get the lower part out, no problem... but is there a trick to removing the top part? hard to get in there and break it loose.

thanks,

Carlos

Be sure you use flare nut wrenches (designed for brake lines) as anything else is much more likely to round off the nuts, and then you're hosed!

There is no easy way. I often use my plumbers torch to heat the joint. You have to be very careful doing that. First, drain the line, you don't want fluid in it if you use a torch. Apply a little heat, and try the flare wrench. The plumbers torch is acetylene without the oxygen, and makes a very small hot flame; small controlled flame is the reason I use it, and why I don't use a propane torch. An assistant with fire control equipment on hand is a must when I try this.

If I remember right, you can remove the drain plugs from the engine bay, which gives you a small access to the top. At least that way you can see what's going on up there. And seriously use the flare nut wrenches, their definatley worth it.

Brian

The best way I found to do the rear was to remove the motor. But then sence you've got the motor out why not do the??? And it will be on jack stands forever.
Joe

i broke the hardline trying to get mine out! it is a PITA... it can be done...use the magic wrenches!

Buy some PB blaster, best penetrant you can get. If your still driving the thing don't soak it with this till your doing the work as it might eat the rubber hose and blow an line. The open end tubing wrench on the line is the best, don't try without. But if the line part is already rounded I have a pic of two tools a little hard to find qualaty tools this small. Iv taken alot of messed up lines out with these. Torch Heat? last ditch effort I would think. PB blaster 2wice a day for 2day just what the doc ordered. Also always have 2 tools on the fitting. Mainly solid hold on the line nut so you dont twist the steel line. With a solid hold on the steel line nut (and if no room to turn it or break it loose) try breaking it loose turning the steel part of the rubber hose from the wheel well side by the tire. The mini pipe wrench does alot better job and easyer to use than the mini vicegrips. For those familuar with plumbing those are genuine Ridgid heavy duty and qualaty ViceGrip mini grip

Thanks guys. I think I might be ready to tackle the task armed with the knowledge you've shared.

Only use vicegrips or pipe wrenches as a last resort. These will damage the hex fittings on the hard brake line, making use of a "real" wrench difficult if not impossible.

DJ is right about the penetrating oil. I've used the PB Blaster stuff for a couple years not, and it really works great.

The best way to get to the upper fittings on the rear rubber lines is with a flare crowfoot, through the water drain hole in the engine shelf. This is a trick I got from Brad Mayeur.

I tried everything... and no luck. I can't even see the top nut from the drain tube hole. Maybe with more light I can tackle this another day.... or I might have to just take it to a shop and have them do it.

Thanks for your suggestions, guys.

Carlos

Hey if you read my message I did say the tubing wrench was the BEST tool and dont try without!!!