Annoyed by the thread "What have you done to your 914 today" I started working on my car again.

Just below the left jack post, it appears that one of the PO must have "hooked" the car on the long - resulting in a rip and rust, about 4-5 inches long:

Click to view attachment

The surrounding area appears to be very solid, beside the lower part of the jack support, which I removed and will replace with a new piece:

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


Once I cut the floor pan to gain access to the long, I found that the inner c-shaped metal was thin and rusted. I cut all the way into solid metal to gain access for inspection and cleaning.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

My approach is to "wash" out the area with Ospho, "flush" the long, up and down, with Eastwood's Internal Frame Coating, apply some weldable primer and patch up the rusted/removed area with some new metal.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment

I have already installed inside the engine bay Heim-Rod-Braces from Tangerine racing (before cutting) and intend to install as well a long-stiffening kit from Maddog - once this repair is done and the car back on it's wheel.

The car is very sold for it's age, when jacked-up by the rear donuts, the door gaps are the same as on the ground - with or without the top on. The rust-like color on the floor is Arizona sand/dust that just wipes off. It will be a street car only.

Here is the big questions: Should I try to patch up the inner c-shaped sheet metal (about 1.5 x 4") and if yes what are your suggestions? Or am I over thinking this patch with the Heim-rods installed and the long kit to be.


Thanks for your inputs,
Dragan



PS: What is the purpose of the c-shaped sheet-metal anyways, heat shield or structural?

Look under Restoration and Rebuild threads. You'll see dozens of cars built from the ground up. Good luck

Thanks for your hint, however, I had posted a specific question. I did look at most of the rebuild threads.

Based on what I know now. Stop cutting ..................
Unless you want to tear the entire car down.

Based on what I've seen in my project. I would assume almost ever car has rust in that same spot. Unless it truly has never seen a drop of water.

Its where the inner long and the insert are mated together. These were built before the use of weld thru primer. So all those spot welds are rust starting points.

I would follow Jeff Hail's lead on this section.
I saw it done the same way on a high end restoration done here in Oregon.

http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?sho...dead&st=425
Start at post #441.
It covers the drivers long.

I'm replacing the entire drivers side of the car on mine. But mine was a poorly done front clip repair back in the beginning of its life.
http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?act...=2&t=187546
We're building the inner box on the same section right now. Being Mr. Anal I want it tight and perfect for strength.

As long as you there I'd remove the lower jack point and repair under it in the same patch. Its a water collector. With once again, no weld thru primer.

Be thinking whats the least amount you can cut out and still do the repair.

Oh yeah,

I don't claim to be an expert.

Just a DIY'r. Started my life as a Time Study Engineer at an assembly plant. So its always been, how come and why for.

Thanks for the links and great work Cary!