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Harpo
Good morning everyone

For those of you with adjustable perches on your rear shocks where did you get them? What size springs did you use?

I know that Paragon has them and Koni shocks are on sale

Thanks

David
Van914
Bought mine from Jason at Paragon. Great guy and great service.

Van914
Harpo
Do you recall what lb springs you are running?

Thanks

David
wndsrfr
QUOTE(Harpo @ Apr 9 2013, 03:00 AM) *

Good morning everyone

For those of you with adjustable perches on your rear shocks where did you get them? What size springs did you use?

I know that Paragon has them and Koni shocks are on sale

Thanks

David


Got mine from Rebel Racing...good stuff with lots of Eibach coils to choose from...
rhodyguy
paragon. my konis too. for spring rate, figure out your prime use. for me, no axing, 17mm frt torsion bars, stock anti-swaybars f&r, and #100 springs with adj perches. great setup for a dd and real nice for a long distance cruiser.


k
ww914
QUOTE(Harpo @ Apr 9 2013, 04:00 AM) *

Good morning everyone

For those of you with adjustable perches on your rear shocks where did you get them? What size springs did you use?

I know that Paragon has them and Koni shocks are on sale

Thanks

David


Got mine at Ground Control Systems, Inc.

They are fairly priced and work good. I got the 225 lb springs. Not sure how they are going to work on the street as I got them for AX.


Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment



Luke M
I got my koni sport shocks from Paragon but the coil over kit from Rich Johnson .
I do not recall the spring rate but Rich was able to help out with that.
He wanted to know what the car was used for , front susp set up and engine size.
I haven't installed them yet but they look good sitting on the shelf..
Michael N
Rebel Racing. 2.25 x 8" springs 200 lbs on a /6. Old Koni shock on left for comparison.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
Krieger
Go ground control from paragon. IMHO they are better than the Rebellion racing units.
yeahmag
Is Rebel Racing still in business? I've called and left emails to no avail.
Harpo
It looks like I'm going with 150 lb springs. Of course I will confirm with
Jason.

David
brant
inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :
Krieger
QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 02:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :


And a good old zip tie!
Jeff Hail
QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 9 2013, 08:33 AM) *

Is Rebel Racing still in business? I've called and left emails to no avail.


I spoke with Clint yesterday. Have to understand he is a one man show, machinist, creator, receptionist, customer service rep etc. He is very much in business and demand is high for his services. He is very good at what he does and his prices are very reasonable. One thing he doesnt do is answer the phone everytime it rings or he gets nothing done which I personally can relate to.

Best is to email him and he will get to you.

Clint is a great guy to deal with - just get past the communication part, be patient and you will be fine. Sometimes he is so busy he throws his cell in a drawer.
Jeff Hail
QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 01:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :


Looks like an IMCA (Dirt Modified) race shock. Thats a well kept secret for Porsche's. IMCA shocks from Carrera, Afco even Bilstein are very tunable for P-Cars and cheap. They are referred to as Faux Penske's. Factory rebound and compression are usually pretty high out of the box.
ww914
QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Apr 9 2013, 05:36 PM) *

QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 9 2013, 08:33 AM) *

Is Rebel Racing still in business? I've called and left emails to no avail.


I spoke with Clint yesterday. Have to understand he is a one man show, machinist, creator, receptionist, customer service rep etc. He is very much in business and demand is high for his services. He is very good at what he does and his prices are very reasonable. One thing he doesnt do is answer the phone everytime it rings or he gets nothing done which I personally can relate to.

Best is to email him and he will get to you.

Clint is a great guy to deal with - just get past the communication part, be patient and you will be fine. Sometimes he is so busy he throws his cell in a drawer.


You're lucky, I guess. I have yet to get a response to emails. Me thinks he needs some help.
jmill
QUOTE(wndsrfr @ Apr 9 2013, 07:10 AM) *

Got mine from Rebel Racing...good stuff with lots of Eibach coils to choose from...


Me too. 225# with 22mm front TBs and 22mm font bar.

Once you get a hold of Clint he'll take care of you. Have the Rebel front bushings and will go with his rears sometime this year.

r_towle
QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 05:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :

Can you show how those are mounted at the top, from inside the trunk, or just simply mocked up?

Must be more parts I am not seeing...

What benefit have you found using those versus a Koni or Bilstien?

can they be adjusted, or are these setup to spec and you live with them?

rich
Jeff Hail
QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 9 2013, 06:04 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 05:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :

Can you show how those are mounted at the top, from inside the trunk, or just simply mocked up?

Must be more parts I am not seeing...

What benefit have you found using those versus a Koni or Bilstien?

can they be adjusted, or are these setup to spec and you live with them?

rich



The cats out of the bag now Rich.....

I have dealt with both companies for years. Lots of hardware available thats not made in Germany or Poway.

http://pitstopusa.com/c-131720-shock-absorbers.html

The tigers loose now....

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/adjustable-afco-shocks-th.html


http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bilstein-Race-Shocks.html

These are all familiar with the transition from steel body to aluminum body dampers.

http://www.speedwaymotors.com/Bilstein-Alu...alve,39712.html

•Rebuildable; shock can be assembled and disassembled for rapid repair or valving change
•Hard anodized for durability
•Valve stacks and valving kits available separately
•Available with linear or digressive piston
•Every part of the ASN shock is available separately for economical repair
draganc
QUOTE(ww914 @ Apr 9 2013, 06:18 AM) *

QUOTE(Harpo @ Apr 9 2013, 04:00 AM) *

Good morning everyone

For those of you with adjustable perches on your rear shocks where did you get them? What size springs did you use?

I know that Paragon has them and Koni shocks are on sale

Thanks

David


Got mine at Ground Control Systems, Inc.

They are fairly priced and work good. I got the 225 lb springs. Not sure how they are going to work on the street as I got them for AX.


Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment


WW914, can you pls do me a favor? I have the same setup from ground control but with 125lbs springs and are trying to dial in the perch setting.

Questions: 1) how long is your spring 2) what position do you have the perch clip and 3) and do you have a pic of your car on the ground respectively how much space to you have between your rubber and body?

Thanks buddy!
brant
QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 9 2013, 08:04 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 05:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :

Can you show how those are mounted at the top, from inside the trunk, or just simply mocked up?

Must be more parts I am not seeing...

What benefit have you found using those versus a Koni or Bilstien?

can they be adjusted, or are these setup to spec and you live with them?

rich


QA1

a few more suspension pictures in my vintage build thread in the signature.

when you a lower a car, the koni's and street car shocks are out of their range of travel. So you are hitting the bump stops all of the time and the shocks will blow their seals in no time. I learned the hard way after replacing koni's on an annual basis...

these are a shorter body.
their "range" of travel is different and they effectively still have travel on a lowered car. Plus the valving can be tailored for the car and spring rates, tracks ideally if you get that advanced..... (I don't)

most amateurs don't change spring rates each weekend for each event.... just like we don't change shock valving ( or gearing ) each weekend.....
r_towle
great, now I MUST buy these.

how about the fronts?
Hoping for some variable adjustment up front...
I can handle the rears not adjusting.

Rich
brant
QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 9 2013, 11:00 PM) *

great, now I MUST buy these.

how about the fronts?
Hoping for some variable adjustment up front...
I can handle the rears not adjusting.

Rich



We have sectioned struts with custom length QA1's in the front
same thing... if the car is lowered you need a shorter shock so that your have travel left at the lower ride height..

Again, most people don't adjust per event.
without a crew and full data you are stabbing in the dark
I adjust roll bars and tire pressures (actually I quit adjusting tire pressures) but try to keep it to adjusting my driving more than anything else.

Data Aquisition is the key, not knobs on shocks
r_towle
I think I have pounded my fronts to nothing now.
rears did not seem to be blown out...but not sure with the springs I have..I dont have issues in the rear as much as the front.

hoping for short adjustables for going to and from the event...less coffee spillage.

I trailered for a few years, but now I prefer to drive what you brung...

I guess I can use the front bar to achieve what I want...and just have it marked.
I hate getting on my back in the gravel at 7am though.

I may see about the external adjustable ones I saw a while back....just so I can get there, set them for the day, then set them when I am done...


Rich
brant
you really don't need race shocks.
its bragging rights and won't make you faster on a street driven car. a 10/10ths thing...

seat time and driving coaching will be much more effective for the same money... 5 seconds a lap instead of .001 a lap.

the fastest part I ever put onto my car (even faster than a VERY expensive motor) was a day with a coach. and it cost 5% of what the motor cost literally.
r_towle
agreed
lonewolfe
I have to agree! Clint is a great guy who makes awesome products. I would not hesitate to recommend his products. Be patient and he'll get back to you soon! It will be worth the wait!



QUOTE(Jeff Hail @ Apr 9 2013, 05:36 PM) *

QUOTE(yeahmag @ Apr 9 2013, 08:33 AM) *

Is Rebel Racing still in business? I've called and left emails to no avail.


I spoke with Clint yesterday. Have to understand he is a one man show, machinist, creator, receptionist, customer service rep etc. He is very much in business and demand is high for his services. He is very good at what he does and his prices are very reasonable. One thing he doesnt do is answer the phone everytime it rings or he gets nothing done which I personally can relate to.

Best is to email him and he will get to you.

Clint is a great guy to deal with - just get past the communication part, be patient and you will be fine. Sometimes he is so busy he throws his cell in a drawer.

SirAndy
QUOTE(Harpo @ Apr 9 2013, 04:00 AM) *
For those of you with adjustable perches on your rear shocks where did you get them?


HPH - http://www.highperformancehouse.com/

beerchug.gif
bluhun
QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 09:33 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Apr 9 2013, 08:04 PM) *

QUOTE(brant @ Apr 9 2013, 05:16 PM) *

inverted shocks with aluminum bodies. Custom length for a lowered car and custom valving :

Can you show how those are mounted at the top, from inside the trunk, or just simply mocked up?

Must be more parts I am not seeing...

What benefit have you found using those versus a Koni or Bilstien?

can they be adjusted, or are these setup to spec and you live with them?

rich


QA1

a few more suspension pictures in my vintage build thread in the signature.

when you a lower a car, the koni's and street car shocks are out of their range of travel. So you are hitting the bump stops all of the time and the shocks will blow their seals in no time. I learned the hard way after replacing koni's on an annual basis...

these are a shorter body.
their "range" of travel is different and they effectively still have travel on a lowered car. Plus the valving can be tailored for the car and spring rates, tracks ideally if you get that advanced..... (I don't)

most amateurs don't change spring rates each weekend for each event.... just like we don't change shock valving ( or gearing ) each weekend.....


How much did you lower the car before you started running out of shock travel with the street car shocks?
ww914
[/quote]

WW914, can you pls do me a favor? I have the same setup from ground control but with 125lbs springs and are trying to dial in the perch setting.

Questions: 1) how long is your spring 2) what position do you have the perch clip and 3) and do you have a pic of your car on the ground respectively how much space to you have between your rubber and body?

Thanks buddy!
[/quote]

draganc

1) The # on the spring tells you all you need to know: 1000 = 10 in, 250 = 2.5 id, 0225 = 225 lbs spring rate

2) They are on the 6th clip position from the bottom. You can count them in the photo. Edit: The above photo is not where they sit now. I will post some pics later.

3) I will take some photos today and get some measurements from the tire to the fender, inside and out, when I get done rolling the fenders a little more today.

I had the car corner balanced yesterday, so as soon as I do the above I will get back to you. That should give you a pretty good idea.
ww914
[quote name='ww914' date='Apr 10 2013, 07:52 AM' post='1848180']
[/quote]

WW914, can you pls do me a favor? I have the same setup from ground control but with 125lbs springs and are trying to dial in the perch setting.

Questions: 1) how long is your spring 2) what position do you have the perch clip and 3) and do you have a pic of your car on the ground respectively how much space to you have between your rubber and body?

Thanks buddy!
[/quote]

draganc

1) The # on the spring tells you all you need to know: 1000 = 10 in, 250 = 2.5 id, 0225 = 225 lbs spring rate

2) They are on the 6th clip position from the bottom. You can count them in the photo. Edit: The above photo is not where they sit now. I will post some pics later.

3) I will take some photos today and get some measurements from the tire to the fender, inside and out, when I get done rolling the fenders a little more today.

I had the car corner balanced yesterday, so as soon as I do the above I will get back to you. That should give you a pretty good idea.
[/quote]

Here is the clearance inside the fender. The coilover is on the 4th perch.
Click to view attachment

Here is the clearance after I rolled the fender. In this shot I could barely get one finger in between, so I pushed the fender out about a 1/4" with a jack.
Click to view attachment

Here is the way the car sits. The measurement from the middle of the fender to the ground is 207/8" in the rear, 2211/16" in the front. EDIT: I forgot to mention that the wheels are Revolution 7x15s and the tires are Hoosier A6 205x15x50ZR, with a 1/4 in spacer. I run Falken 205x15x55 and 195x15x55 on 5.5 Fuchs on the street. The street setup did not need rolled fenders. It was just the wider track A6s that needed the mods.

Click to view attachment
lonewolfe

Hey 914 convert, what size tires and wheels are you running front & rear?


[quote name='ww914' date='Apr 10 2013, 03:44 PM' post='1848308']
[quote name='ww914' date='Apr 10 2013, 07:52 AM' post='1848180']
[/quote]

WW914, can you pls do me a favor? I have the same setup from ground control but with 125lbs springs and are trying to dial in the perch setting.

Questions: 1) how long is your spring 2) what position do you have the perch clip and 3) and do you have a pic of your car on the ground respectively how much space to you have between your rubber and body?

Thanks buddy!
[/quote]

draganc

1) The # on the spring tells you all you need to know: 1000 = 10 in, 250 = 2.5 id, 0225 = 225 lbs spring rate

2) They are on the 6th clip position from the bottom. You can count them in the photo. Edit: The above photo is not where they sit now. I will post some pics later.

3) I will take some photos today and get some measurements from the tire to the fender, inside and out, when I get done rolling the fenders a little more today.

I had the car corner balanced yesterday, so as soon as I do the above I will get back to you. That should give you a pretty good idea.
[/quote]

Here is the clearance inside the fender. The coilover is on the 4th perch.
Click to view attachment

Here is the clearance after I rolled the fender. In this shot I could barely get one finger in between, so I pushed the fender out about a 1/4" with a jack.
Click to view attachment

Here is the way the car sits. The measurement from the middle of the fender to the ground is 207/8" in the rear, 2211/16" in the front.

Click to view attachment
[/quote]
draganc
QUOTE(ww914 @ Apr 10 2013, 02:44 PM) *


draganc

1) The # on the spring tells you all you need to know: 1000 = 10 in, 250 = 2.5 id, 0225 = 225 lbs spring rate

2) They are on the 6th clip position from the bottom. You can count them in the photo. Edit: The above photo is not where they sit now. I will post some pics later.

3) I will take some photos today and get some measurements from the tire to the fender, inside and out, when I get done rolling the fenders a little more today.

I had the car corner balanced yesterday, so as soon as I do the above I will get back to you. That should give you a pretty good idea.



Great - thanks a lot for your fast reply!!! Great looking set-up, just the way I was going for.

I just checked my springs, they are 1200.250.0125 - "200" or 2" longer than yours.

Hence, I will try the 4th clip in order to compensate the spring differance.

Dragan

PS: My car stands like your on the pic, however, my engine/tranny are out of the car.



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