74, stock 2.0, stock front swaybar - no rear bar, stock front inserts, may mount an older set of adjustable Koni's I already have on the back, either way 100 lb springs, 195/65 Eagle GT's.

Looking to have fun, not too worried about much else, but I have a few basic setup questions:

I'm going to chalk the tires, but what pressure should I start at?

Full tank, half tank or empty tank?

Spare tire in or out?

The konis need to be adjusted out of the car - soft, medium or firm (keep in mind I will have to live with it on NH streets too)?

Should I overfill the oil a bit? If so how much?

What am I missing?

Thanks,

Scott

38psi.

1/4-1/2 tank.

Out. Clean out your glovebox too.

Leave the stock shocks in the car.

Half a quart.

If it is your very first auto-x ever, don't try and set records on your first and second run. Drive the course at 8/10 the first time or two to get the feel of the car and not miss any gates. Be looking 2-3 gates ahead so you can keep your foot on the gas longer without surprises.

Find an instructor to ride with you.

If not trailer out here and we'll find you a good one!

Hi Scott,
If you're talking about NCR, barring car problems I will be there.
Look for this thing:
Click to view attachment
I think Chris has the bases covered. They usually have a large
number of runs for the day and always have instructors for each
group. Before you leave home check that the battery is secured
well and check the CV joint bolts.

Mark S.

Without a doubt, go the first few times with an instructor. Even if you walk the course, it will look different when you get the green flag. This is coming from a guy with only 5 AXs to date. Getting off on the right foot is important.

Hi Mark,
I haven't registered, but I am considering the Sports Car Club of NH event at NHMS.
Where is Devens Field?

I will take everyones advice and take a couple of runs with an instructor!

SCCNH has a rookie class this year, could be fun....

Devens is in Ayer, MA. It is a very good site for us.

So I had a great time at the AX with my son.
After the morning session (3 runs) I was in 2nd place in the novice class.
I never did go with an instructor.

In the afternoon I needed to step it up a couple of tenths like everyone else, but choked instead and finished off the podium.
I started at 38 psi and lowered it to 36 psi in the afternoon, but it turns out everyone else was lowering their tire pressure a lot more do to the cold conditions.
I’m sure it was partially me trying too hard, but the track definitely felt greasy in the afternoon.

On straight time I was about mid-field of 60 cars, so not to bad considering I’m new and was virtually the only car there on all season radials!
I’m not obsessed with it at this point, but would like to compete for the rookie championship.

For the novice class you are limited to tires with a UTQG of 140.
I have a set of 5.5 steel rims and am looking at a set of Toyo Proxes R1R in a 195/50/15.

I don’t see any other tires for these rims that meet the UTQG requirement.
Is this worth doing? I’m going to burn the Goodyear GT’s off anyway, so maybe a dedicated set of tires doesn’t really cost any more as they will let me get another two years out of the Goodyears?

Sounds like you had a a great time. You should really come down to Devens and do an NCR PCA event. We have a few folks, like Mark, who are really fast and great to learn from. Check out the details at www.ncr-pca.org. It's a very 914 friendly region (I'm Presidente!).

Also it turns out that NCR is having one event at NHMS, it is on 5/11.

What is it going to cost? Do I have to be a member?

Go to ncr-pca.org. I think they send registration stuff to motorsportreg.com. You
have to register early. Porsche drivers don't need to be members.

Nice job, Scott! You're an inspiration. I've been wanting to try a AX, but every time I watch an in-car video I feel like I can't tell where the gates are and fear I'd be running over cones more ofrten than not. Maybe one day...

Go for it Robert!
Walking the course and watching other cars helps a lot - it isn't that hard to stay on course (I missed one cone all day and it was on my last run when I knew better).
They will also give you an instructor if you are having trouble so don't fear!

Dunlop direzzas and hankook RS3s are the street tire of choice down here. Not many people run the R1Rs. We also have a couple guys running the Yokohama AD08s but if I was you I would look towards the dunlops or the hankooks and try to squeeze a 205/50/15 on the car.

I would consider going 205 if:
it will work on a 5.5 rim
it won't rub on the fenders without rolling (I do not want to roll the fenders at all)
it is a real imrpovement over a 195 that fits the rim better

the direzzas were very popular with the SCCNH crowd, go figure

DZ101 any good or do I really need the ZII?

The Direzza STAR Spec tires are the ones to run for auto-x. They just released the second generation of the tire but i'm not familiar with the results or popularity concensus yet.

I am reading good things about BFGoodrich g-Force Rivals too...
They do not come in a 195 but do come in a 205.

http://www.onehotlap.com/2013/01/bfgoodric...t-thickens.html

3rd run...


https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=GANu4mJZ7iQ

No comments

That nobody is offering me advice isn't that unexpected, but that nobody is giving me shit is practically unacceptable

I'd like to get the Direzza ZII's in a 195/50
They will fit the 5.5 steelies better and I don't have to worry about rubbing

Hey Scott,
I know nothing about AX, but I think it's cool you got your car out there! We're running Falken Azenis RT-615Ks (205/50s) on our car, and while it's close, they fit. Haven't had the chance to shake the car down totally yet, but I threw it into a 90 degree corner at Sebring last weekend doing 50 and the tires barely made a sound. Keep in mind that tire fitment is totally based on wheel offset though. Good luck buddy! Don't be afraid to lower your pressures!

And so it starts....Have fun!

[quote name='scott_in_nh' post='1855852' date='Apr 26 2013, 07:30 PM']
No comments

That nobody is offering me advice isn't that unexpected, but that nobody is giving me shit is practically unacceptable

I'd like to get the Direzza ZII's in a 195/50
They will fit the 5.5 steelies better and I don't have to worry about rubbing
[/quote

Looks good, you made it around the course without getting lost. Now go faster. Yes the 195s will fit better but I would still want the 205s for a little more footprint. You may want to look for some wider wheels. Maybe a 6 or 6.5. Just my $.02.

That nobody is offering me advice isn't that unexpected, but that nobody is giving me shit is practically unacceptable


Like Woodman says "go faster". Thats all I know, I'm a conehitter.

Round two this Sunday!

Sorry to say I'm still on all season radials, but there is still time to be found in the nut behind the wheel...

One of the things that helps me the most is after your first couple runs, after you begin to get comfortable with the course, is to visualize it. Try to remember where you may be able to pick up some time. Maybe areas that you're taking too fast as well and would benefit from slowing down just a bit. It's faster to keep it in tight sometimes.

I'm sure the following has already been mentioned, but here are a few more basics.

1. Walk the course

2. Do the walk with an instructor or seasoned driver

3. Figure out where you need to be on the course to make any turn. Some would argue that you first need to decide early or late apex for any particular corner, but figuring out where you want the car (right, left or center) of the course at least gets you close.

4. At any corner decide where you need to be looking (*) when you start the corner. If your not looking where you're going you will end up in the wrong place. Students will always ask, "but how can I drive this corner looking at the next one." If you are looking forward you will automatically set up the car not only for the corner you are in, but also the next apex. Kind of magic!
(*) Don't just look at the corner, look at the exact cones that will end up being your apexs. If you think about that then a 11 corner autox becomes just +/-11 cones, or sets of cones. You can block out all the other cones because they won't be where you are going.

5. When thinking about the course (right on Woody!) visualize where you will be full on the gas, full on the brakes or turning. A perfect autox run is one where you are either accelerating, braking or turning, nothing else. Sometimes in slalom you are accelerating and turning or some combination of these, but the basic principal of going flat out, braking or turning helps you to visualize what you need to do at any point on the course. And trust me you will typically be braking early and will continue to brake early until you run some brake exercises (autox school) where you learn just how quickly your car stops.

6. Walk the course three or four times and by the 3rd/4th time you should have those critical cones viewed and identified each time you come to a corner.

7. After you make a run stop and think about what you did where and what you are going to change. Do this before talking with anyone after you finish a run. Write it down or draw it, whatever get's it into your head best.

8. Learn proper hand positions for any turn.... nah, not going to talk about that now.

Anyway, stuff to think about.

Have fun.

And in car video is really a great teacher. You can watch exactly what your did, in relationship to the above points and figure out what to change next time.

Came in 3rd in the novice group today.
I aired down the tires quite a bit.
With the lower pressure I could feel the sidewalls squriming but it seemed to have more traction.
There wasn't any evidence of the tire rolling under....

There is an Dodge Stealth twin turbo AWD that is about a second ahead of me.
I don't think I can catch him on the tires I'm on.
Next race isn't until June 2nd.

After I was done, I did take some rides with other members in their cars - I could do that all day, what a blast!

That is a good performance Scott. Nice going.

So I have a stock front bar and a rear bar to put in (but haven't yet).
Everyone says to not run the rear bar in AX anyway, but I am experiencing a fair amount of body roll and am considering the 140 lbs. springs instead.

1) will the ride still be decent enough for a date car or is my girlfriend going to hate it?

2)will they help with the body roll, thereby increasing traction and lowering course times?

3)what is the best way to get back to the correct ride height?

I'll be mounting them on the old 3 click Koni's I have and would assume some type of spacer would be the quick way....

go as fast as you can ,,,then put a good AX driver in the seat and check the times against yours ,that will show you how much you can improve, and dont forget to have fun

I am having fun - Lots of it!
I can't put another driver in it, they would have a hard time with 2nd.

Slow down ...
This is your 2nd AX?
Stop thinking about what you want to do to the car. Forget new tires. Forget new springs. Forget new sway bars.


Get a good instructor the next time you go out. Listen to them. Then listen some more.
Drive the car the way it is right now.
You need to get a good feel for a stock car on stock tires before you start fiddling with the car setup and components.

I bet a good instructor can help you shave several seconds off your times. For free.
Then get seat time. Lots of it.


PS: Save the new and shiny parts for next season ...

To echo Andy's advice.

I listened to Rich Bontempi (High Performance House) when he told me to do nothing but drive for the first year. Also to go to every autox school you can find and take instructors on rides at every event.

I've never had a student that I couldn't get to shave off 7-10 seconds on a 60 second course, so just the car you have is good enough. Just set the tire pressure low enough so that you don't have roll over and you are good to go.

BTW Hank Watt's book on autoxing is good reading material. All the basics are in the book. http://www.amazon.com/Secrets-Solo-Racing-...g/dp/0962057312

The only thing I didn't like in the book is his instruction on hand positioning, but this is stuff you'll learn after the basics.

I tried to use his method but it just doesn't feel right. I have my own way which seems to work ok, but most of all comes natural, without thinking.

The best advice i can give as far as hand positioning goes, either grab the steering wheel really firm or let go of it.

The knock-back can really hurt your fingers and arms and sometimes it's best to just let go, wait for it to straighten itself out and grab it again.

I didn't like it either.

My favorite way is to drop my opposite hand to the bottom of the steering wheel (right hand for left turn or left hand for right turn). Then, approaching the corner, start moving the bottom hand up, and move your opposite hand down so that your hands are parallel to the ground when you're in the middle of the corner. You have so much more control this way.

Watch any autox and see how many people are trying to counter steer or whatever with their hands crossed! Like trying to drive up-side-down.

putting on new parts IMO requires taking some time to think through,
as chances are it won't be just one thing, and for a car that's been around
for 40 years there will always be people to get opinions from. Also I agree
it's not really the time to do it while you're learning.

If you like that area, our club will be there this saturday. $50
for non-members, sign up by wednesday night.
NCR PCA May 11 Reg

If I know the weather will be shitty I won't be going, but probably will go if
the forecast looks okay. I don't know if any other 914's will be there, one of
our best 914 drivers moved away last year and NHMS is more north than
our usual place.

Unless you have a decent video system I think having someone else drive
your car is a waste of time (maybe even then). Instructors can feel what's
going on from the passenger seat. Ride with people who know the line.

I would go to a PCA event but I cannot make it this weekend.

I know riding with an instructor is a good idea and I will learn things that will make me faster.
Unfortunately I could not make the AX school they ran on saturday
Ditto on reading a good book on the subject.
SCCNH courses are short - in the low 40 second range.
The fastest drive of the day was a 38, my best was a 43 so no we won't be shaving 6-7 seconds off!
Another 1-2 seconds and I would be well in the hunt, not just in the novice class but in Stock Performance class as well.

Also I am competing for the Novice championship with other drivers who are also on their 2nd AX so say what you want about not changing the car, when I am on tires with a 440 UTQG and everybody else is on 200, 180 or even 140 tires I am at a disadvantage that will likely keep me from achieving an achievable goal.

Burning off these tires that probably have another two years of regular driving in them and then needing two sets of tires next year doesn't make sense either.

The only thing stopping me is money! It is registration and inspection month for all of my vehicles and my Jeep needs tires too....

I disagree ... You can throw all the money in the world at your car, and yes, that will make a difference, but much less so that you are expecting.


The most gain will come from seat time and good instructions.

No I promise you no money is the reason

I'm not disagreeing and I understand the mantra here of seat time and instruction.

That is great when you are new, running 15th out of 20 cars in class with no hope of placing until you have more experience.

I will only be a novice this one year and you guys are insisting that I remain at a mechanical handicap compared to the other one year only novice drivers.

That is what I disagree with and I feel that is not being taken into consideration.

I could catch 2nd place with tires or more seat time as he is about 1 second ahead, but he will be improving too so it will take both to overtake him.

I honestly don't believe the 1st place driver is a true novice as he is crushing all the rest of us by quite a bit in a MX5 and it will take more skill and good tires at a minimum to catch him.

Even if it could be done by skill alone, it will be too late in the season to catch him.

Also you can trust that even if I had $10k to put into the car, I have no interest in doing most of the mods many of you are doing.

I will run stock performance next year, maybe touring, but that's it.

I use the car daily and on dates with my GF, so I do not want to build a stiff riding noisy race car, I just don't want to be mechanically handicapped within my class either....

Start with some Dunlop Direzzas or the Hankook RS3s. The new BF Goodrich Rival is gaining popularity and may be next years hot street tire. Those MX5s are very fast and will be a hard car to catch in an otherwise stock 914. If your not running a front swaybar you may want to consider one as well.

Thanks Woody, we do use PAX, but I was still shocked how far out front the MX5 is!

I have a front sway bar, no rear. I currently only have some 5.5 steelies to put new tires on which limits me to 195/50's.
I'm ok with that but am worried that it might lower my gearing too much. Right now I can do the entire course in 2nd gear.

The Rivals do not come in 195/50, the Direzza's do, but I'll take a look at the Hankooks too if they come in 195's.

It would be nice to go to 205's, what is out there for cheap 6" rims - anything?

You can put 205s on 5.5" rims.
I have them on my street 914.

Yup, and they look better in my opinion too. But it's a real tight fit, depending on the type of rim. With the EMPIs on our car, and with the car lowered a bit in the back, I've got about a pinkie's width of room to play with.