This winter I took my engine (4 cyl) out cause my car was being painted. The enigne was running fine when the engine was removed. Prior to removing the engine, I ran a tank of gas with stabil added. While the engine was out, I adjusted valve lash to 0 (chromoly rods), put in new oil pump (long story why), removed carbs, tin and distributor to clean up the engine.

Now the engine is reinstalled. I run dual weber 44 idf's. I made sure the various carb jets were patent. I went through the normal carb setup routine.

Tried to start the engine. Cylinders 1 and 2 were making a spitting noise through the carbs and after a little while the engien made a loud noise like the starter jammed up or something however kept turning. The engine did start (however did not run well). I set the my timing light to 27 degrees, pointed at the fan and the timing marks lined right up. With an ir thermometer I checked the header temps and cyl 3,4 were room temp- not firing. Turned off engine checked plugs- 3,4 very fuel fouled. Took carbs apart to make sure everything ok- all patent and functioning normally. I let things dry out then tried again the next night- same thing occurred along with the occasional horrible noise with the starter.

Is it possible that a timing issue would make only one bank fire? Is it possible if all the timing marks line up- that I could still have a significant timing issue? The issue with the starter sounded like it did when I installed a distributor 180 degrees off in the past. The problem is that my distributor is exactly the same as when it ran perfectly. I have checked to make sure the spark plug wires are correctly installed.

The only two problems that I can think of are if there is a carb issue that I am not identifying or if the timing is off 180? When I removed the distributor this winter, it is possible that the dizzy drive gear could have rotated or something.

Any ideas?

Unless you turned the engine upside-down and the drive fell out it can't skip a tooth.

I'd check to make sure you fuel enrichment circuit didn't get opened up somehow. It's the disconnected lever on the side of the carb body. Sometimes this lever plate has been removed and replaced with a cover plate, the valves inside can still get stuck open, so check them carefully.

Make sure you don't have a stuck float on the 3-4 carb. Since the plugs were fouled, I assume you are getting fuel, but it sounds like you are getting too much fuel.

I am not thinking this is timing, but verify that you have the firing order right.

Make sure spark plug wires 3 & 4 are not swapped.

I went outside and took apart the carbs again and completely went over them. I cannot find any clogs or stuck jets, floats, etc. I reset them and re installed them. Tried to start the car- same problem. I did see a backfire through the carb. I couldn't tell if it shot a flame out cause I was in the cab. I just saw a puff of smoke from the 1,2 bank.

I really think that I have a timing problem. I do not recall taking out the distributor gear however it is possible that I did for some reason.


How do I verify that the distributor gear is oriented correctly?

Find TDC for number one and then look at the rotor.

Backfire through the carb is a wire (or drive ) swapped around.

What is the best way to find TDC for cyl 1 with the dizzy out and valve covers on? If I use the timing mark on the fan or flywheel- I may be 180 degrees off?

Wanna be sure, take off the valve cover.

Took off the valve covers. Lash and dizzy drive gear are all where they should be. Decided to change the spark plugs and now everything works great. Not sure why but I had bad plugs in cyl 3,4- dam!

The plugs were bad because they loaded up with unburned fuel.

its common when trying to get a carbed engine to start for the first time, especially if it is running rich.

Zach

Change plugs 3 and 4

Chopstick!

(Sorry, old joke. Don't do that.)

--DD

Old but good Dave, I laughed.