How tight should the thermostat cable be and same question for the spring on the flap rod?

Come on guy's. this is a good question.

From the shop manual.......
"Installation
The restoring spring should rest with its bent ends
against the holding spring lug and behind the
cable guide.

Adjustment
1 - Assemble all control parts, lubricate joints
and bearing points with paste on molybdenum
disulfide base.
2 - Push throttle flaps into closing position and
tighten cable control.
Checking Thermostat
Heat thermostat in water. At 65-70°C (149-
158’~) water temperature the pressure capsule
lenght (a) should be at least 46 mm (1.81 in.).
"


Is that un-clear enough?

I've found it easiest to put the spring in place last.
Here's what I do. (with engine COLD)
1. push the flaps down to the closed position.
2. attache the cable so that it will hold it in that position. I don't think any extra pressure here will help, it just needs to be closed.
3. twist the spring so that it has tension against it when behind that tab in the case. For me that was one turn.

4. check to make sure the thermostat is actually working when it gets hot. (or maybe this is step one) It should expand so that the flaps are fully opened at 150deg.

Here is the awesome pic from the manual

BE VERY FREEKIN CAREFULL HERE!

When the PO of my car wired the Thermostat Bellows, he made it tight to hold the flaps just like the manual states. But he forgot to check on BIG thing. The thermostat bellows was not working and did not pull back anymore like it is supposed to "it was Old and worn out and in the fully extended position all the time." So basically he Wired the Thermostat flaps in the "Stop the air flow" position permanentally. It would never open the flaps ever. Eventually cooking the engine.

Luckily for me I boght the car in the early spring. Did not drive it much at first, and noticed in time.

Scott Maybe I can't read But, I think you either have it backawrds or just confused the shit out of me.

How about this.... Engine up to temp as measured with CHT gage. Flaps should be open this looks like lever pivoting forward or up. Cable should be snug but not holding flaps away from full open.

Now as engine cools down (about 2 beers) the bellows will contract and CHT gage should read closer to 100 or so. Flaps should be closed or moving close to closed.

IF YOU ARE DRIVING A 914 WITHOUT A CHT GAGE this is for you.

Here is an easy way to do it. Insure you have a good thermostat and it opens to it's proper lenght. Install, etc.

Warm up the car so that it is at operating temperature. Then, tighten up the cable. When the engine cools off, the bellows should close to the closed possition. DD make a post on this method a while back.

If you want to validate your Tstat works unscrew the cable from the frt. of the bellows (8-9mm) remove the Tstat w/bracket from block.
Boil a pot-o-water on the kitchen stove...Toss it in!!
If it expands in a min. or less its good if it dosnt get a new one.

i did fubar that one, i got confused. i meant there should be no slack because it is tight when cold, i was backwards on my post.. i meant hold it closed and the flaps open when the bellows expand

i deleted mine as too prevent problems