Hi, I installed a 2.0l last fall and the car would start but then wouldn't start again once the engine was warm. It was fall so it was probably cool in the shop. I didn't investigate further because winter was on its way and I am still waiting to install a muffler before I try to figure this out. Well now the weather is nice and it's time to get this on the road. It fired right up yesterday when the shop was at 70 degrees F. I shut it off after a few minutes and it started right back up again no problem. I tried this probably 5 or 6 times through out the day with out problem. It thought maybe the problem miraculously fixed it's self after a long winters nap. I attempted to start it today and it wouldn't start. I am assuming it's the CHT. The shop is now at 55 degrees F, there is no spark and the CHT reads 6.4 K Ohms. I've read the CHT should read 2,000 - 3,000 ohms cold but what does a failed one have for resistance? Does a failed CHT result in no spark? Does this sound like a CHT problem?

Thanks'
Jon

Provided you have points, and 12dc power at the coil, the spark will happen.

The cht will affect fuel.

Look for spark issues.

Rich

CHT with high resistance will cause too much fuel in the cylinders and may cause hard starting and won't run well.

The CHT circuit has nothing to do with the ignition circuit. A no-spark condition will keep the engine from starting. So check the ignition system.

--DD

I am no expert but what about the cold start injector? If it is bad I would think that it's not spraying causing the fuel to take more time to reach the intake.

Don't need one.
In Boston, no need for the extra injector nor the AAR valve.

Rich

I checked for 12v at the coil but now that I know the CHTS only affects fuel I'll investigate the ignition system further. Thanks for the help.

Jon

How did you test for spark?
Could be that you were way rich and your plugs fouled.

Well I double checked the spark when I got home today and it was good, hasty check yesterday i just assumed CHTS. Car still wouldn't start today in the cold shop, plugs weren't fouled. In the last few hours the shop warmed up to 70 degrees and the car fired right up? And it has continued to fire up in the last few hours? Next time it is cold I'll check for injector pulse, is there anything else I should check? The wiring seems fine unless the warm temp is closing a broken circuit which opens when cold but it seems unlikely.

Thanks'

Jon

Well,
If you have spark and the cht test are not correct for the temps, you may need a new cht.

Rich

Thats what I'm thinking, I'm going to check it again this morning and then when I get home from work when the air temp is above 70 and see if there is a difference.

Well I replaced the CHTS and still no luck. Here's the cars history-I bought the car last year it previously had a 2.7 six in it. It does have a big fuel pump in the front trunk that runs constantly when the key is in the run position and you can feel fuel running through the lines. I do have a stock three port pump that I hooked up but it too runs constantly, not the second or two that it should?

1. I don't have the stock fuel pump wiring connection-I just temporarily wired to a positive lead in the engine compartment does this matter?

2. What causes the pump to run for a second or two? Does the pressure regulator control the pump so the pump shuts off at a certain pressure or does the ECU control the pump cycle duration?

3. Does the pump have to be gravity feed which means lower then the gas tank?

Thanks

Jon

The stock pump was lower than the tank; it primed relatively easily.

The ECU controls the pump; it supplies a ground to one of the relays on the relay board, which then sends power to the pump.

--DD

Thanks, I'll fix that wiring and pump location and see what happens.

Jon

It ended up being a poor connection on the molex connector that feeds the ECU. I wasn't getting power to the ECU when it was cool in the shop. Yahoo, now I have to figure out the wiring for the fuel pump to function properly

Jon

That's great! Now you just need to find some nice goggles since you have no roof and the spray from my tires will be quite annoying

start with verifying continuity from the relay board to the fuel pump (pin 13 on the 14 pole plug) and power path through the relay board and functioning fuel pump relay
Click to view attachment

Ha, too funny, you get that on the road yet?

Thanks, for the diagram, does the ground on the pump just go to any suitable ground?

Double post

Actual ground wire for the fuel pump is the multi-ground connector stud near the relay board, but more than likely any ground would do.

My wiring harness was hacked up since the car previously had a 2.7l six in it so I wasn't sure if both the ground had to come from the board.

Thanks for the help