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Full Version: Over Heating and sandwitch oil cooler
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dirk9141973
Need some help? Built a 2056 from a 1.7 (Duel 40's) (I have about 1,000 miles) and all has gone well great results. Notice a high heating issue 220 up to 230 oil Installed a oil cooler plate type with oil filter and remote cooler and fan. I'm not seeing a lot of additional cooling? Today went out for a drive and temperature zoomed up to 240, 260 and shut it down. (I was also getting a good pinging sound from the engine) To be safe called tow truck to get the car back home. After a hour to cool down fired back up like nothing happened?
Ideas: Can you install oil cooler upside down ? and will it block oil flow
What I'm going to do is remove oil cooler and see is if heating issues persist.
Could this be a timing or valve adjustment problem with heat? Any help would be great.
malcolm2
QUOTE(dirk9141973 @ May 19 2013, 07:52 PM) *

Need some help? Built a 2056 from a 1.7 (Duel 40's) (I have about 1,000 miles) and all has gone well great results. Notice a high heating issue 220 up to 230 oil Installed a oil cooler plate type with oil filter and remote cooler and fan. I'm not seeing a lot of additional cooling? Today went out for a drive and temperature zoomed up to 240, 260 and shut it down. (I was also getting a good pinging sound from the engine) To be safe called tow truck to get the car back home. After a hour to cool down fired back up like nothing happened?
Ideas: Can you install oil cooler upside down ? and will it block oil flow
What I'm going to do is remove oil cooler and see is if heating issues persist.
Could this be a timing or valve adjustment problem with heat? Any help would be great.



If the OEM T-stat fails the flaps stay open, which would delay warm up. That is unless you have a MEXICAN spring type T-stat. IIRC they fail closed so the flaps stay closed and you would overheat with much less air going thru the OEM oil cooler. What type of t-stat to you have? Is the cable broken?
dirk9141973
QUOTE(malcolm2 @ May 19 2013, 06:51 PM) *

QUOTE(dirk9141973 @ May 19 2013, 07:52 PM) *

Need some help? Built a 2056 from a 1.7 (Duel 40's) (I have about 1,000 miles) and all has gone well great results. Notice a high heating issue 220 up to 230 oil Installed a oil cooler plate type with oil filter and remote cooler and fan. I'm not seeing a lot of additional cooling? Today went out for a drive and temperature zoomed up to 240, 260 and shut it down. (I was also getting a good pinging sound from the engine) To be safe called tow truck to get the car back home. After a hour to cool down fired back up like nothing happened?
Ideas: Can you install oil cooler upside down ? and will it block oil flow
What I'm going to do is remove oil cooler and see is if heating issues persist.
Could this be a timing or valve adjustment problem with heat? Any help would be great.



If the OEM T-stat fails the flaps stay open, which would delay warm up. That is unless you have a MEXICAN spring type T-stat. IIRC they fail closed so the flaps stay closed and you would overheat with much less air going thru the OEM oil cooler. What type of t-stat to you have? Is the cable broken?

will take a look never thought of flaps being the problem?
dirk9141973

I'm a dumb ass found a shop towel in fan
a914622
Oh the old shop towel trick. Thats been the death of more air cooleds !!! smash.gif


carr914
QUOTE(a914622 @ May 20 2013, 12:36 AM) *

Oh the old shop towel trick. Thats been the death of more air cooleds !!! smash.gif


agree.gif

I sucked in a Plastic Grocery Bag in once & couldn't figure out why the Temps were so high! headbang.gif
pcar916
Good find!

In answer to your question though, a generic oil cooler needs to have it's outlet at the top unless it's built internally to carry the oil to the top first.

The inlet can be at the top or the bottom but if both are at the bottom the oil won't fill the cooler before it finds it's way to the other side.
dirk9141973
beer3.gif Back on the road but this potential hiccup did cost me 2 fins in cooling fan is 2 missing fins bad? Do they make a new or improved fan ? can you replace fan without dropping engine ? Looks as you can but hard to see much in that area. Are 1.7, 1.8 and 2.0 the same the timing marks could be different.
Dave_Darling
Two missing fins is not good, but is not fatal. Best to have a fan with all the blades, unless you are going for the AA-special "Racing fan" look. wink.gif

The fans are pretty much the same, except for the markings. If you get a new fan, you would need to verify the marks on the fan and transfer over any that weren't there.

--DD
type47
QUOTE(dirk9141973 @ May 19 2013, 06:37 PM) *

I'm found a shop towel in fan


This is awkward to install with the engine in; you need a ratcheting 90 degree screwdriver or a 1/4 drive socket will do
Click to view attachment
021.119.207
You could also count your shop towels like a surgeon counts his sponges happy11.gif
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