Here's the link........


Stainless steel fuel line installation.

I will be updating it as I find time to get back in the garage and finish the job!

Nice write up and good pics!

Cool!

New fuel lines are moving to the top of my priority list. Thanks for the write up but the pics didn't load for me.

"Thanks for the write up but the pics didn't load for me. "

Same here.

Excellent post, awaiting the finish with required tools and supplies in hand, thanx.

That looks real good and my only regret was that I had the whole fuel line replaced with proper plastic replacement about 7 years ago. The car hasn't been on the road since then as I'm still not finished with the restoration!

My next car WILL have the SS lines!

However, I need to ask you about that fuel pump location, I understand you're not done but are you planning to secure that to the (dashboard) bulkhead as noted on the picture? Would the humming pump noise transfer into the compartment?

The 75-76 models has their pump mounted on the inside chamber of the "front trunk" bulkhead (not the "dashboard" bulkhead as your picture indicated) to eliminate the vapor lock issues and I wondered the factory also put in that area to eliminate the possible noise if it had been mounted "dashboard" bulkhead? I dunno as I'm deaf as hell so I wouldn't care but for you others? I do know I could hear (and feel thru the floorplan) when the old electric fuel pumps on all 4 cam Spyders were kicked on, boy, they're loud (and sweeet!).

so fill me in more on where you're going with the pump location....

j

I've converted Clay's page into a club-page
You can find it in the tech articles under the "914 info" link at the top of the page
or by clicking here

The pump in the picture is in the correct location. It just needs mounting. If you look at a 914 with the fuel tank out, the factory front sway bar runs under it. The pump mounts to the bulkhead between the tank well and the front trunk. This is the same location as a 75/76 car, just no factory hole. The pump is isolated from vibration by using the rubber mounts. I did my wife's 74 this way, and you can't hear the pump inside the car at all.


Use the fuel pump bracket from a 73 911. It kicks up on one end. Just bend it flat and attach it to the bulkhead.

Where do you get 16ft pieces of S.S. tubing? And Grommets? Thanks

The gromets came from my FLAPS. In a help package. The SS lines came from the local steel supplier in Ft. Worth. I don't know the name because a 914 racer friend of mine got them for me in exchange for some parts he needed for his 914 race car.

Clay,

Thanks for the nice write-up. Can you explain the reason for threading the ends of the tubing? Is it to grasp and retain the hose?

Thanks,

Andy

You can get the tubing (stainless, coated regular steel and aluminum....all designed for fuel) from Summit Racing.

Summit Racing

I recommend getting a catalog from them, very well laid out and decent pricing.

A 10mm die will cut very shallow threads into a 7/16" tube. An 11mm die will cut very shallow threads into a 3/8" tube. They will act as grooves to retain the hose better. As I said in the article, it will keep it from slipping off under pressure.

I did the one off of the bird board tech section which uses SS brake lines. Sourcing the fittings was a pain at first, but I found an easy vendor (car quest) and all in all it cost me like $35. Looks great, too. I'll post pictures in a few weeks when I am done with school.

What size lines do ya recommend running? I was think about 3/8" supply line and 5/16" return. What is the stock ID for the fuel lines?

On the fittings, if one didn't want to run any rubber lines what kind of connectors can be used to go from the stainless lines to AN fittings? I was think that swagelok fittings would work, does anyone have any experience doing this?

-Britain

Can someone educate me on bending lines? How do you get all of those nice bends to contour with the car?

I have a little handheld tubing bender and I can't get it to bend worth a darn!

I never explored the idea of using Braided SS lines on my car, so I don't know what it would take to make the connection.

AS for the tubing bender, it just takes some patience. You can't make the bend in just one motion. You bend a little then reset the paddle on the bender, and bend again until you get the correct angle.

not that I like the idea too much for fuel lines...but you can fill the tube with sand for holding up the shape of the walls...sorta a cheap-mans mandrel bender...

I also did the one off the bird site for my 3.2 conversion.
I also mounted the 911 fuel pump in the stock 75 location.
I was able to source all the parts at Kragen auto parts and pep boys.
Its just standard brake lines and connectors.

Clays looks pretty awesome.
I like how the metal line goes all the way up to the motor.
On my car I installed 90 degree fittings on the ends of the brake lines where they exited the firewall and then used fuel injection line up to the motor.
It was easy to do and the only bending I had to do was where the lines went under the gas tank.

This link is no longer available but there is a tech article here:
Install Stainless Fuel Lines

Please don't use sand inside of tubes while bending. Especially fluid transport tubing. Most tubing is not as clean as you may think and may have been run through an oil bath or linseed oil prior to shipping. Unless sand is packed really tight it will move on you while forming.

Water is probably the safest bet on a budget simply capping both ends and a couple of hose clamps. Light tubing should not need any fill.

Cheap tubing benders will still work the best if you have a correct shoe size for the tube. Doesn't get any more complicated then bending a tube around a pulley. Most hand held benders are under $50 for a decent one that will do both fuel and brake lines. Rule of thumb -If the tube starts collapsing the radius isn't big enough.

In simple terms the outside of the radius is stretching and the inside is trying to buckle in on itself. The shoe just keeps it from kinking.

I am taking this old thread up as I am having trouble pushing the lines through the front grommet (between passenger cabin and tank area). Is it recommended to remove the grommet from its position, install the lines through it and then put it back with the lines inside it ?
Thanks a lot
Antoine

Put some lube on the line and it should slide through the grommets easily.

Pull the grommets (both front and rear) from body sheet metal 1st.

Get lines routed out the big hole in front sheet metal under the gas tank.

Now put some glycerin on the fuel line tubes. Slide the front grommet onto the tubes.

A dab of glycerin on the retaining lip of the grommet.

Push the front grommet into body sheetmetal. Seat bottom side you can't see 1st. Then push in the top side -- use wide lip plastic trim tool (could use screwdriver but be careful due to small / sharp edge) to tuck the retaining lip in and seated to the body, being careful not to rip the grommet.

Same sort of process for the small circular rear firewall grommets but takes longer and a little more finesse to get them seated.

Just installed the grommets on my own project about a week ago and used this process.

@TRS63

Thanks guys!
Looks like both method should work then!
I will try again!
Bests
Antoine

Yep. A helper with lube makes the process a lot more fun. Wait. That didn’t sound right .

Here’s an (old) video I made of the process…

https://youtu.be/IDFsZoI_W3g

Can't believe Il forgot to check if you have a video on this topic..shame on me as I really do appreciate all your helpful videos!!

Well it finally worked last night! For me it worked with the version grommet out, lines in it, grommet in

Thanks to all for your help,
Antoine