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JawjaPorsche
I have been doing research on the forums about taking out the oil strainer and cleaning it and putting it back in.

The Cap'n said to use only 9 lbs of torque on the bolt plus not use any sealant on the gaskets.

I got the Victor Reinz Oil Gasket Set. (See picture) It comes with two gaskets do you use both of them? I know where one goes (strainer cover) but how about the second? Also the washer, does it replace the existing washer?

Also does the strainer just fall out after taking out the bolt and strainer cover or do you twist or thread it out?

I know these questions may seen very elementary to some of yall but if there is a way to screw this up I will! biggrin.gif

Thank you so much in advance for your help and advice.
pilothyer
The gasket sequence is: gasket - strainer - gasket. The strainer usually takes a little turning to work off, won't ususally just fall out......as in most cases, the Cap'n is right...
nathansnathan
I read this little write-up by Ray Greenwood a bit ago on thesamba, a good way of doing this so you can check the strainer with each oil change without having to change the gaskets- it involves silicone, permatex ultra copper. I haven't tried it but I am going to.

QUOTE
Take a clean stariner, and lid....and new gasket set. Put a very very thin layer of permatex ultra copper (their most oil proof of the ultras)....on both gaskets...only on the side that faces the stariner. Clamp it up into the strainer area with only about half troque on the strainer lid bolt. Leave it that way for the night to cure.


Waht you end up with in the morning when you pull the strainer and gasket assembly out...and trim the edges with a deburring tool....is a perfect sealed assembly....strainer and and top and bottom gasket assembly.
Typically I have to put new gaskets on like this about every 30K miles. They last that long. Thats 10 oil changes...with strainer out each tiem for cleaning with a spray of berrymans chemtool which will not remove or hurt the Permatex ultra copper unless you scrub on it or peel it. Just spray it...let it dry done.

Its simply easier to do two strainers at one time. And put one in the bag in the garage. This way when the gaskets start to peel at an oil change...Ih just swap in the new strainer.

So whats the benefit of looking at and cleaning the strainer ?....because the sediment that lands on the strainer lid and or gets caught on the mesh has been enlightening and has saved my ass twice.

Once....it had small chuncks and flecks of metal. turned out I had a crappy bugpack swivel foot wearing itself out and caught it before it got ugly on the end of a valve. I went to 911 swivels and never looked back.

The second time, it caught some early lifter wear before it smoked the cam.

If you think its too much work to check your strainer each and every oil change....or cant bring yourself to use the method I just outlined here that makes it very clean and dirt simple to do....and your engine dies because of one of the reasons I listed here...or several others that could have had early diagnosis by checking your strainer every oil change.....I have absolutely no sympathy for you whatsoever.
In fact....Ill laugh at your laziness and misfortune when I buy your leftover parts on E-bay.
Ray
Dave_Darling
A little more thoroughly:

Crankcase, gasket, screen, gasket, cover.

Use the new crush washer on the mounting nut. (Yes, it looks like a bolt. But the threads are on the inside, so I'm calling it a nut.) It replaces the old crush washer, which from the sound of it is already crushed in your case.

9 lb-ft torque; more can break the crankcase at the cam bearing supports and that means new motor time.

The screen comes out if you pull on it. Twisting might help, but there is no positive mechanical retaining mechanism. It's just friction that keeps it up there after you have the cover off. -- If in fact it does stay up there, mine used to come out with the cover about half the time.

No sealant required.

--DD
JawjaPorsche
Thank you so much for all your help! beerchug.gif
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