I bought my '74 2.0 about four years ago, and I've had a great time with it. It's mostly very original, except:

• Monza/Manta Exhaust
• No FI - had Progressive Carb when I bought it, now dual EMPI 40s
• Still original color, but had a mediocre overspray paint job by a PO

It's still the original ride height, and even the seatbelt-ignition interlock is still functional. I'm pretty certain that it's an original, numbers-matching engine. The PO had some decent quality metal rehab done in the longs & hellhole. A few of you have seen it in person. It's a fairly solid, fairly original driver. Odometer is frozen, but I'm guessing it's gone 130K+ miles.

For the past couple years, there's been a bad sound from the bottom end. Not loud, but noticeable to anyone who knows what they're listening for. (I was not among that group until I had a couple people point it out to me.)

Lately, it's been losing more oil -- and it seems to be losing more than what I see dripping on the ground. I'm getting compression/leakdown tested next week, even though I'm pretty sure I know what it'll say.

So I'm stuck with a tough decision:

• Park it -- I do *not* want to do this.
• Drive it til it grenades -- also, not my idea of fun.
• Rebuild the engine -- this leads to a bunch of other choices... carbs/EFI/heads/etc.
• Buy a motor -- also a lot of options here
• Sell it -- seems like a most inopportune time to do so...

I am perfectly happy driving it in stock form. It's just a fun driver. No ambitions about A/X, Concours, DEs, etc. I like the notion of keeping it very stock, but then again, the FI was gone before I bought it anyway. If I'm going to keep it carbed, is it time for a fatter cam? Resale value is a consideration, but not the only consideration.

OTOH, it might be cheaper in the short term to find another engine. Do I split up the numbers-matching engine from the car? Or try to keep it and buy a spare? I'd love to do some driving this summer/fall, but...

...I haven't budgeted for any of this. I can afford to put some money into it (although I'll be dipping deep into the spousal goodwill intangible fund).

I've got a week to decide what to do. Appreciate your input.

Am I overblowing the originality factor?
Is $5K better spent on a rebuild, or a replacement/upgrade?
Is $5K even the right ballpark for either of those options?

Help me get from back to without breaking the bank...

I don't know if McMark still does the $5k engine program (PM him!), but i think for that money you could do a really nice rebuild to 2056cc using your original case and get a very nice motor that will last you many, many years.

Don't know if this is an option. But I am putting it out there.

Rebuilt Motors

http://www.importmotor.com/Store/DeptSelec...mp;DealerId=108

Good Luck.

I am perfectly happy driving it in stock form.

If this is the case, you’re happy with it, why are you worrying about this?

Rebuild the engine -- this leads to a bunch of other choices... carbs/EFI/heads/etc.

Why not decide if you want to keep the carbs or return it to fuel injection and rebuild what you have?

Parking a car is silly....and on a 914 typically leads to a rusted pile of crap.

If keeping the original engine is important to you then buy another 2.0 off this forum or elsewhere and keep driving.

My 73 has 2056 from a forum member and I love the way it drives!

You can also check with McMark about doing a short block. His quote to me was very reasonable. Never park a 914. Mine is making a similar bad noise but I am going to drive it until I can save the money for the short block.

The answer is always simple and direct. Its should be the code of all 914 owners.

Do what is in the best interests of the 914.

and that is not to Park it - it will surely die & become a Parts Car if you do

Best interest is definitely not to park it, may as well sell it to Pick n Pull right now.
Nor to sell in, the worst possible return is selling a non-running or almost non-running car.
So it's either rebuild what you have or replace it with a used engine. If you can get a cheap good used engine, that's fine, just put your original engine in a corner for contingencies. But the only way you can KNOW that used engine is good if if you know the seller, and no guarantee even then.
You wouldn't be asking these questions if you could rebuild it yourself, so as far as I can see the only legitimate choice you have is to have a known legitimate shop rebuild the long block. In other words McMark or someone more local who's equally reputable. No big deal, no drama, just what happens to cars after thirty or so years, they need some maintenance. So do it and be done with it.

Appreciate all the feedback. I'm definitely leaning toward a rebuild of the original 2.0.

My biggest question right now is this: Given my car -- especially those of you who've seen it in person -- how important is originality? Should I have any second thoughts about building it into a 2056 or similar? While I'm very happy driving it stock, a couple dozen more HP certainly wouldn't hurt.

Edit: And if I'm placing entirely too much emphasis on originality, should I ship away my core and drop in a 2270?

Well for me originality has its place. If you are intent on preserving as much as the car as possible the don't swap the engine as a core. Or better yet, buy a solid performance enhanced motor and put the 2 on the shelf until you decide which way you want to go. Even if you do decide to sell, having the original engine with the car is a plus even if it is not perfect.

Your car does not have original paint nor does it still have the original fuel injection system. Quit worrying about it.

Keep the original engine in case you ever want to restore it, buy a good used engine or have one built, and drive the car!

Don't worry about originality. Put in a running engine and drive the car.

My 73 2.0 has a McMark 2056 with dual carbs, and I live in Springfield VA too (almost in Burke actually), in case you'd like to see what the extra 30 hp feel like. We need us a NoVA/DC/MD get together anyway!
Brent

Post a picture or two so we can have a look at its current condition. The cost effective solution is to source a used engine with good compression and leak down numbers and do a straight engine swap. If you are able to do some of the work yourself this can be completed for under 2K.

Another option is a full rebuild. Peak preformance in Lanham, MD has probably built more type four engines than anyone on the east coast. Tear the engine down to the long block and it is well inside your 5k budget. With there help I did my 912E engine including new Mahle P & C's and a Web cam for under 3K a few years ago. Spent a few extra $$$ on the while your in there stuff but that's another story.

Put it in an independent Porsche Shop that knows 914's and has a good reputation to protect. Give them a bugget and offer to pay part as thing progress to keep things moving, and don't be in a hurry.

Limit the total to what a rebuilt engine cost would go for plus allow for installation time and labor. You'll get a rebuilt original engine and a local Porsche 914 mechanic that will support you if things go bad, and who knows your car. He'll be able to tell you if there are other things that need doing and cut you some slack as a regular potential customer. Step away and when it's done you will have a reliable 914 that you can drive every where for years to come.

Buying a rebuilt engine can be a gamble and you still have to get it running in the car. It's not as simple as it sounds, nor a quick fix.

I believe in keeping everything all original and stock - no modifications should ever be done on a 914...ever....

oh wait, um...uh...ok. Scratch that....

Seriously....

Don't Park It
Don't worry about originality unless it's a concours perfect show car.
It's your car, do with it what YOU want, not what anyone else says you should...

As far as advice goes, my opinion is either build the engine you want - stock or otherwise - or buy a recently rebuilt engine. If you buy a used engine, no matter who it's from or how good they say it is, you have the potential of being exactly in this same position in a very short time from now.

....Actually my advice is to drop a 3.2 engine in it, put GT flares, roll cage, race seats harnesses, coilovers, big sway bars....etc.... but that's a whole other topic of discussion..

Really appreciate all the varied perspectives - part of what makes this such a great community.

I have a mechanic that I trust... a local father/son shop, the son drives a 914 of his own. I'm bringing it to them next week for the diagnosis. Expecting them to give me some options - having them rebuild it in-house or who they'd recommend (which, of course, I'll balance with what y'all recommend). Or maybe they'll tell me there's a 2.7 sitting in the back of their shop...

I'm feeling a lot better now. I now need to really figure out my budget before next week and then see what options that will leave on the table.

Here's a link to a few highlight photos.

That is a very nice car, I would keep her and find a good 2.0 motor and do a swap.

Good luck with your decision if you need some help with an engine drop I would be glad to assist.

And if you decide to sell I may be interested.

See?? That's the spirit!

Get Jake Rabys rebuild DVD and do it yourself

Is that DVD still available? I didn't see it on the RAT site.

My vote would be to have your motor rebuilt - and keep the fuel system that is on it currently.

That car is way too nice to park. Find the money and get the engine rebuilt or build it yourself. That car will be worth decent money in the not too distant future.

From an originality standpoint there is value in converting back to stock FI. Doesn't matter if you bump up to a 2056, but having the FI will always be a plus at resale time. Plus you can sell your 40s for a little $$. A well sorted FI system is a joy to drive.

For any who care...

Dropped her off this morning. Planning on a stock engine rebuild - only planned mod is a cam better suited to the dual carb setup. I might use this thread to post updates on what we find when they split the case.

I'm already excited to see how it'll drive when it's done.

Do yourself a favor and go up to 2056cc.

The price is about the same but the added HP will really wake her up!

That's the way to go w/o much hassle, the results are well worth it from what I hear.

BTW which shop is doing the work, just curious.

Nice looking 914. Like the original radio.

I've become loyal to RPM in Newington. Father/son shop, Kevin (the son) has a 914 of his own.



Thanks. It still works, usually. even have a DIN cable to hook up iPod/iPhone for music.

do not part it out. do not grenade it. there will be a time when there are not more around and wont that be a shame that someone down the road wan't be able to enjoy these wonderful little machines.

rebuild or sell or hang on to it...

just my 2 cents...

I have a good strong driver I would like to sell??? Bob

Hey, Love that car, keep it going.

If you need something, I am up in Oakton and can stop by for help or advice.

Keep the car!!!

Update...

Engine's out but not apart yet - some of the head studs are jammed and will have to be cut.

And here's one very good reason why the engine needs a rebuild:

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=6H5e4wrnP9I


I'll try to post pictures of the carnage once they have the case apart. I brought home some of the tins to clean, and I need to send out my speedometer for a rebuild -- want to get the odo working again before I start putting miles on the rebuilt engine. Anybody do these on the East Coast, or do I need to send to North Hollywood or New Vintage?

Definitely 2056 since you are paying for the same labor to do a stock build. Looking forward to getting your transmission sorted out

there is a Co in Manassas that does powder coating, you'd want the tin to look as good as the new engine (Bob wouldn't listen to me ); intake runners and air cleaner too. A long time ago I was told of a VDO repair shop in Winchester, don't have the details but you could search....

You can use another speedo/or have yours set. I have messed with them and reset them to 0 before if you can not find a place.

Decision time!

My engine's apart. The Cylinders have enough pitting and scratching that I will probably go ahead and replace. And are these bus pistons???

(Assuming they are, I'm very confused... thought this engine had never been apart, but I've only owned it for 4 of its 40 years!)

Click to view attachment


There's some carnage from some loose metal - fortunately, no significant damage to the Crank or the Case. But look closely at the cam gear:
Click to view attachment

So now I need to decide what Ps & Cs to get, and what cam. It's a 2.0 case, running EMPI 40mm carbs. Primary concern is drivability - this is a street car, not a race car... but power (and to some extent, fuel economy) are considerations too. Who makes Ps & Cs that bring it up to 2056? What CR should I be targeting? and what cam?

Opinions welcome!

Don't just park it learned the hard way. The cost of getting your 914 back into good driving shape after it's parked for a while can be down right overwhelming.

Just thought I'd update the World...

We are building a 2056 out of the original 2.0 engine. My stock cylinders had some minor pitting, which was enough to convince me to go to 96mms. The Ps & Cs are coming from European Motorworks - George also rebuilt the heads & rods (and balanced), and provided his G camshaft and a few other valvetrain goodies.

In the meantime, I hauled my gearbox up to Dr Evil's lair a few weeks ago and we rebuilt it in his garage. Also shipped my speedometer to North Hollywood for a rebuild, so I'll have a functional odometer to track the miles I'll be putting on the new engine.

"Excited" is extreme understatement. I can't wait to get back to driving. This will really be my first experience with a 914 making good power and shifting the way it should.

The only downside is that there are only a couple weeks left til the school year starts... which means dropping my kids off in the morning... which means no driving the 914 to work. I'll be making the most of weekends!