I'm no sure if this is the right spot for this or not but here it is.

I see a lot of you guys do your own welding on your cars. I plan on getting a welder soon and the electrician running the 220 wants to know which plug to install. HUH!

The machine I'm thinking of will be either a Miller or Lincoln Electric. Someone once told me to stick to a known name brand because it's easier to get serviced locally if needed.

OK, but what size welder do I need that's the question. Can you guys help me with this?

I want something that can be used on body work up to maybe 1/4 to 5/16" think tubing etc. A friend of mine said mig is the way to go.

What would you be using?
Dan

MIG is a good general use type of welder and is good for learning. The plug will be determined by the size/type of machine. More importantly, he should be the current draw so that the wire and breaker can be properly sized. Oversizing the wire is typical and then installing the correct breaker and plug can be done when you decide which machine you want. My recommendation is to stick with the name brands, like Miller or Lincoln and buy the best one you can afford.

Well, I have my sights set on a Millermatic 211 with autoset. This is both a 110 and a 220 welder. Looks like it will be a good choice although I don't know anyone that has used one.

I bought the 211. After wiring a dedicated 230v circuit in my garage I have never used the machine on 115v mode. I don't really need portability, so I would have been fine with the 180. A 135 would have been fine, too. Make sure you have a dedicated circuit whichever way you go. The 115v machine will weld anything on a car. I don't like running mine on 115v because I get a lot of nuisance trips with the fans and lights running on the same 15A circuit in the garage. I like having the flexibility of the 211, but i would have been perfectly happy with a 135 and a dedicated 20A circuit

I used my Miller 135 (15v) to weld 1/4 inch (but did it using non-mig wire, and did not do much of it).

If you will be welding a lot of 1/4 inch wall tube, I'd get the 220. But for 914 sized metal the 115 volt machine is fine and the 220 is overkill.
Zach

http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/pr...hp?model=M00209

MVP is cool
http://www.millerwelds.com/products/mig/pr...-specifications

I've used them all, but IMHO MILLER is the only brand to get. . I still use my old Miller 35 from the 80's and have never had an issue with it. . . . . To me, Lincoln's require too much fiddling with the settings to get a good weld. . seems like their setting parameters are narrow, while a Miller is much easier to set up. . .

Next. . get a 220v machine. . much more versatile, sucks less amps and easier on the machine. I've used a MIller 135 [110 volt] and found it didn't produce a deep weld and was hard to control weld pattern consistency. . I also prefer one with a wire wound transformer vs. an inverter. . . If the PC board goes in the inverter you might as well buy a new welder. . Finally, don't get something using coated wire; use a shielding gas. . Doesn't need to Argon or Mig mix- straight CO2 works fine for welding steel.

My son got a miller with dual controls. I think it was a 250 or so. . . He has a spool guy with aluminum on one side and steel wire in a regular Mig gun. . It made nice aluminum welds but not really that great for really thin alum sheet. .

Most real commercial welding stores will let you try out different rigs before purchase. . . and my local dealer has matched prices from EBay retailers for Miller units because they prefer you to buy local and become a lifelong customer.

I have a Miller Matic 175 Mig. Set on 220V. I can weld most anything I need to. Very happy with it. I have used .023, .030 and .035 flux wires with very good results.

BTW, Buy a NAME BRAND auto darkening helmet too.

I'll second or third the 211. I used the 110 on a non dedicated circuit (bad idea) until I wired up the 220 on its own breaker. I doubt I will use the 110 again unless it is only for convenience. Most of my welding was for the doors and prison bars for horse stalls so far(3/32 thick I think).

I love it.

I use a Miller Matic 180. 220 volt machine that does everything I need it to do. It is a bit bigger than I really need and may be over-kill but it works great. I highly recommend the Miller machine. MIG, the "glue gun" of welders.

I've got a Hobart 110 and a 180. The 110 I use for sheet metal work which I keep .024 wire in. The 180 I use for 1/8" or heavier which I keep .035" wire in. Hobart and Miller are the same company these days. The Hobart is less expensive with less features and is sold at places like Tractor Supply. Millers are sold by the bigger welding outfits.

Lincoln is kind of the same way but not as easy to see. You can buy Lincoln from Home Depot or Lowes but they don't offer the same machines as you can get from a welding supply house.

I went with Hobart years ago based on price and experience which goes back to my uncle who has used Hobart welders for as long as I can remember. Before I picked up the 180, I rented a Lincoln 185 to weld in my cage and will say that it had a nice stable arc and produced a great set of welds. I'm not crazy about their plastic gear drive setup.

You wouldn't drive a finish nail with a sledgehammer, right? Consider what you will primarily weld. If sheet metal, stick with something smaller than a 140 that uses 110 volt.

A good online store for welders is www.cyberweld.com who I believe has "free" shipping on all of their equipment.

I have a 180 and it works great for all the little stuff I do.

Thinking now about adding a TIG...

I added a TIG and rarely use it. I have to drag that thing out and practice with it. And practice. And practice. And...

I tried the hand held aluminum gun in a welding class I took... OK results... but I mean a new TIG only machine... Aluminum is fun... but hard!

I've got a Lincoln 135 110V MIG and absolutely love it. I've done up to 1/4" with it with good results. Anything bigger and I sting it together with the MIG and finish weld with the TIG (which is a Lincoln 185 ac/dc).

I like a 110V unit because it allows flexability with where I can use it rather than being stuck to one area of the shop.

Invest in a Speedglas auto darkening helmet. You only have one set of eyes; protect them with the best available.

I have a Hobard 110 and it does the job.

Thanks for all the pointers, tips and advice.

What ga metal would the floors and body work of the 914's be? I don't need to do body work now but a welder that could handle it would be nice.

Miller say's the 211 will handle min 24ga.

Well, I see Miller say's the 211 and the smaller 110v welders can handle a min ga of 24 so I guess that is not an issue.

Dan

You will probably end up with a MIG. With MIG, heat and feed are intertwined, which helps make things simple. Problem is, the heat needed to make a puddle varies, and holding the welder at the same spot doesn't only get things hotter it also adds more filler. Same problem when it gets too hot. You can't slow down the arc without also stopping the fill. So..adjustability in heat would be the thing I would look for. I have a Miller with A,B, C, and D for heat choices. It is working on the 4th body build, so it works, but it has limitations that I have to work around. Better that you do not have to if you can afford it.

Also be certain to get the auto darkening helmet. That is pretty much a given these days, but I would take a good helmet and a bad welder over a flip down hood hood and a great welder. Good luck. Also get a fire extinguisher, and WATER and protective garments. I had metal sparks burning through my clothes twice last night and it wasn't fun. And I had an apron!

I too have been looking at welders, since I've taken mig, gas and stick welding classes recently. I personally would love to buy a 220 type of miller machine, but they are expensive, even used. A miller 135 or 140 can be had for 350 to 600, which seems like enough machine for up to 3/16. What's funny is when looking online at forums, everyone and his brother will say to buy the larger machine, even if you don't need it. Miller does seem to be the brand of choice with Lincoln running a close second.

I don't think you will need the biggest one that often in body work. Also I don't see how the brand extends past preference.

I bought some kinda of MIG welder from Harbor Freight. My welds look like crap. But I'm a great grinder!! Ha ha ha
One day I'll turn professional like you guys and get a real welder.
Dug

I'll be buying one of these as soon as I get back from my honeymoon.

Hobart 140 Reconditioned

From what I understand, Hobart is made by Miller, correct me if I'm wrong. I'm ready to get my on!

Correct, something smaller than a 140 that runs off of 110 volt will do for most any bodywork.

Brand is more than preference. If you can try a Miller and Lincoln side by side, do it.

Also, wire plays a HUGE role. I've noticed a big change in settings from one wire manufacturer to another. I try to stick with the same wire manufacturer if possible. Stay away from Harbor Freight wire. It's a crapshoot for what you'll get.

Hobart and Miller are owned by the same company and share parts, but they are not the same machines. The latest Hobart machine I bought came with a Miller gun.

The Hobart is less expensive with less features and is sold at places like Tractor Supply. Millers are sold by the bigger welding outfits.

Miller. I wouldn't buy anything else if you want the best in the business.