My car is slamed to the ground. It has 21mm t bars in the front and 140 lb spgs in the rear. I would like it to ride a bit smother and want to know if there is a measurement that I can use that will let it handle but not ride like a cement mixer?

Bernie

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my car is lower than that...
measure to the donuts on the bottom of the car.

what shocks you running?

I think most guys here measure to the donuts, and I think 4 to 4.25 inches accounts for more happy people.


M

but how does it ride? I know where to measure but what is a good compremize in inches?

Bernie

i have konis on soft for the street...rides nice... cali roads suck though.

they handle better when lowered

Shocks make a HUGE difference....ask KYB owners!

Set the Koni's on full soft. It appears it has enough "travel"


B

KYBs in front and Koni sports adj to soft in rear. also have stock ft and rear sway bars adj with no load

Bernie

thats half the battle there

The ride height is not gonna effect your comfort (unless the shocks are constantly bottoming out)
Ditch the KillYourBack's and get sum real dampers

Alright dude-I have some experience with these--If you truely want to keep your car slammed -AND- have a decent ride quality here is what you should consider doing.

1. Take the tops off the struts and put in a SECOND set of rubber springs.

2. With the car's front end off the ground, back off on the adjuster all the way until you can actually get it off, Loose the top of the strut so it hangs from the adj. plate by about three threads from off on the rod nut.

3. Now is a good time to make sure you have the proper torsion bars in place (marked R & L ) the L one has more tension to compensate for the driver.

4. Now as best you can work that adjuster back into its home so as it is fully bottomed out, i.e. no possible pre tension adjustment yet. When that is accomplished, tighten the rod nut to bring the strut/ arm back under pre-tension.

5. Now, the best way to do this is get four pieces of metel plate, two per side, with grease in between the plates so when you lower the car front tires onto the plates , they slide and allow the sus. to go to its driving point immediately, if you do not do this, each time you raise and lower the car you will have to push it back and forth to get the front arms to settle.

6. With the car lowered in ints most un-adjusted position, measure from the ground to some point on the car that can be reproduced perfectly each time.

7. Now it is a simple matter of finding your "ideal" ride height. I am 225 lbs, keep the fuel tank full as possible, ( this has dramatic effects on such a light car, set the sus. with a low tank and when you fill it, you will NOT be happy with the results) But for me, I turn the adjusters, ( front off the ground) until I have 1 1/4 inch raise on the rightside and 1 1/2 inch on the drivers side. My car is still slammed, the extra rubber shocks help to cushion very well, handles identically in right and left turns, and I run KYB's also. Happy trails, hope this helps you out

could be the 21mm torsion bars on the street

Nah, yea they are stiff, which is why to use the double rubber springs and leave the pre-load light---this give great rate when at speed (+ 70 mph/ interstate) and tightens up pronouncedly when slow and hangin turns -70 mph and slower---I drove a '05 011 the other day, when it is sitting still, and you push up / down on the fender, the car barely moves ( I am 225#) yet at varying speeds, it is very tight, yet reasonable compliant---You want to ride in a real kidney splitter, try out my dodge 1500, it took 50k miles of use before that damned stiff-ass suspension has worn itself in and gives a reasonable ride. When I first got it, by simply rolling over the tiny curbs left in place when going into shopping mall entrances, would send you crashing into the headliner!!!!

You mean ADD bump stop rubbers? On a low car, that's the last you want to do... It will make the suspension bottom out sooner. Not a good thing.
Typically, on low cars you cut the bump stop rubbers shorter to keep some suspension travel...


Not true... The bars are equal in strength. The R&L stampings are only so you don't missplace them em after you've had em in the car for a while (used bars are torqued in one direction and therefore shouldn't be used on the opposite side)
New bars are equal left and right and interchangeable (not advisable for reasons mentioned above)

yep, like others said, get rid of the KYB's, you might want to put back in stock torsion bars and go with a stiffer swaybar or not...just make sure you have "a" swaybar that is adjustable (endlinks wise as well)

how are your suspension bushings? if they are binding, they will act like springs and cause too much resistance


you'll love the yellow Konis

quite the contrary there mueller

But remember: to each his own, what works for one and not the other does not make them both wrong. Have a red stripe on me

Why does my factory Porsche manual state that there are suttle differences in spring rate between the left and right torsion springs?????

whoa! i wanna see that

If you wanna ride on the bump stop rubbers instead of a moving shock... be my guest

sounds like you are adding rubber "tender" springs, not additional bump stops, if so, then your solution will work, but it is not an ideal solution since the suspension will bottom out (or can depending on height of "rubber" springs and compression)

with your method, you are changing the rate of the torsion bars since for a few inches of travel (if you have that much) the torsion bars are getting a free ride and not having to support as much vehicle weight

i'd have to see a picture of the parts...sure it works, but there are better methods that don't cost a bunch to implement.....