I figured I should make a new thread.

Converting back to fuel injection
1.7 djet


We try to start the car, it cranks but does not start.

Timing and TDC are checked and spot on,

the coil will not spark.

Just to confirm. The thick black/ purple is on the positive (+) side of the coil and the small black and condenser on the negative (-)

With the ignition on, I get 12 volts at the + / black/ purple wire
with the ignition on, I have ground on the negative side of the coil,
when I crank, the negative side of the coil switches from ground to 12 volts positive

I replaced points and condenser and coil,Same issue.

Like I said on your other thread, get rid of the black capacitor! That's not the problem here, but it's NOT stock and you DON'T need it. Just one more variable. Have you checked the integrity of the rotor, the cap, and the coil wire? Cap and rotor should be BOSCH only, no aftermarket crap. BTW, you say in this thread you've replaced the points and condenser, yet in the other thread you say you might have a Pertronix. Which is it? Might want to step back and get your story straight, then put this all in one thread. Hard to help someone who doesn't supply enough information, or gives us wrong information. If you DO have a Pertronix, odds are it's blown and will have to be replaced. That's why I don't use or sell them.

The Cap'n

Capt,
the other thread is not mine.

I'm sorry, an error was made here, and it's ENTIRELY my fault. This thread isn't yours, either, I think.

The Cap'n

not his....but Paul seems to be fixing most of the 914's on the east coast at this point....

Ray, that's my son's thread.

When you say it switches from 12vdc to gnd at the coil while starting, how are you measuring this? Most digital multimeters can't do this in real time, there is a lag on the meters voltage printout. I'll take your word on this though, maybe you have a old school analog meter? If you have 12vdc on the positive side of the ignition coil, and the negative side of the coil is indeed pulsing, you should have spark. You should make sure the rotor is installed, and double check the condition of the cap and wires. After all that, I would ohm out the ignition coil.

It was tested with a test light. By 12 volts, I meant positive current.
1-
With the key on, I connect one the tip of test light to the positive side of the coil and the other end to ground, it (the test light) turns on.
2 - with the key on, the tip to the negative to side of the coil and the other side to ground, it (the test light) turns on, but went off when I crank.

Now if I connect the other end if the test light to ground while the tip is on the negative side of the coil and crank the light will turn on.

This test light, is it a incandescent lamp or LED style? The first test, test lead on the + side of the coil, and the other lead to chassis ground proves that you have voltage going to the coil when the key is on. So far so good...

The next test you did with the test light lead on the - side of the coil and the other lead to chassis ground proves the continuity of the primary side in the ignition coil. As long as the points aren't closed and shunting the - side of the coil to ground, your light should be lit.
When you attempt to start the car, and the light goes out but back on again demonstrates that the points are opening and closing.

The light should blink on and off when the engine turning over. It will be a very low dim when the engine runs. If you use a LED style test light, you won't see any of this. I really don't like the test light idea, much more can be seen if you use a ohm meter (analog). Remove the neg lead from the dizzy to the ignition coil, and test the resistance from that wire to chassis ground while turning the engine over. You should see the needle sweep back and forth as the points opening and closing.

Keep in mind, with the key on and the car not running, you are running the risk of ruining the new points you just installed. If the points are in the closed position, you are sending 12vdc to the ignition coil at a constant rate. This causes the ignition coil to heat up and may cause fatigue to the new points, thus higher resistance.

I am not using an led light.
The light did not flash when cranking, it is steady. I will double check again, adjust the points and see if the points are opening and closing...
Stand by...,,,

If the light stays steady from the (-) side of the ignition coil to the chassis ground, means that the dizzy - wire isn't hooked up, or the dizzy itself isn't grounded, or the points are fried.

Spent a few minutes readjusting points and We removed the tach wire. Test shows that the points are opening and closing and I have spark. The engine finally sounds as it wants to start. The other issue is that all 4 injectors are leaking , now I have to find a source for 4 injectors. I only have green spares.

Witch Hunter- quick, easy and cheap