I'll be starting to put my 2.0 back together this weekend but probably won't put it in the car and start it for another month or so. Is there an assembly lube that can be used that will stay where it needs to be for that long? Tom Wilson's book says to use Moly lube. Thanks

I used Wynn's HiPo Lubricant Suplement [part #59419] as recomeneded by a Porsche mechanic. Same deal, It took me about 2-3 weeks to assemble and it stays.

Got this stuff from High Performance House, comes in a small yellow tube, really thick dark grey lube, it'll stay put for years!

I'll give you the name of it when I get home (if I remember )

Nothing is like engine oil... Even if it will be sitting for a while it'll still be fine.

All those thick, slick lubes give a false feel during assembly for me, I build by feel mostly and thats impossible with those lubes..

I used to use of all things, STP for assembly lube back in the 70's and 80's. Do they still make that stuff??

Don't use straight STP! You can mix a little bit with your oil if you like.

I've never used or liked most assembly lubes, I just use oil.

Thick isn't good. it actually henders fresh oil from hitting the bearings on start up!

Engine oil is the only way to fly..

Would a heavier weight make any difference?

I use 20 wt.

moly lube? thats what i used

My 1.7 914 sat for 15yr of its 32yr life. Even sat better than 2months with water in its intake and one cylinder. Got it running again month latter it dropped a valve (spring broke) did a valve job both head's all new springs, checked the cyl that had water you could see a stain but felt smooth. Still can see orig hone marks on cyl walls. Lack of $$ why i did not do the bottom end. The good news it purrs like a kitten no hunting at idle no oil leak's and not smoking/burning oil. Im happy daily driver but need alot of $$ to dump in to it like a 911 motor..I wish!!
You pre lube a motor when you assemble it so I would think unless you left it out in hurricanes as I did in Fl I would bet it would fire fine in 5yrs properly stored.

I check fit and tolerances by initial assembly of rod bearings and main bearings with no lube, but use assembly lube and that nasty-smelling Federal-Mogul green stuff during final build.

Same here!

HD 20wt ND

In 11+ years of assembling motors (professionaly), I have used nothing but Clevite 77 Bearing Guard. And he is right... you check everything with just oil on the bearings for the "feel", then on final assembly use the "thick" stuff.

I will stand by this because I have seen it work. I have had at leat 2 customers "forget" to put in the oil pump drive rod on short blocks I have assembled. Luckly one of them figured it out within seconds of starting the motor. The other drove the car to the shop
WITHOUT oil pressure. When we tear them back appart to check if they "buggered" the bearings... we have been shocked at no damage.

Clevite 77 Bearing Guard and Torco MPZ assebly lube are the best by my book. They both are made to stay put in the bearing, yet break down into the oil as it runs. I would not run any of the Molly lubes or anything with graphite in it, as they actually contain solids in suspension(witch is great for the camshaft lobes). Also avoid white grease for the same reason(good for seals and "o"rings).

you're engine wont start up, for sure.



I used torco assembly lube. I had a gallon sitting in the garage from building two stroke engines.