I can't seem to find any specific information about how to change these, other than supporting the aluminum housing. So I'm pretty clueless.

Click to view attachment

Thanks.

i believe you need the help of large vise, use a series of large sockets, you are basically pressing that center pivot pin out to replace those bushings.
do a search on PET 914 and you will get exploded diagrams, here is the link for this section:

http://www.pbase.com/9146gt/image/113592239/original

Suggest you check the 911 forum on the Pelican site. I know I've seen a number of threads on the topic there. I've done mine in my 911 (very similar) and used a vise (mine isn't huge) and sockets as suggested. It isn't that difficult.

There maybe a utube video of the process also so you might want to google it.

Good luck,

Keith

You can do this with a bench vice, but using a shop press is better.


You'll need a sleeve (or a deep-well ratchet socket) that the OD will fit inside the ID of yoke, and a large enough ID that the pin will fit inside when pressing it through.

You'll also need a short (3") drift (or a bolt) that's a tad smaller than the diameter of the pin.


Place the socket on one side of the yoke, pressing up against the old bushing and clearing the yoke material.

Line the bolt up with the pin on the other side. Slowly tighten the jaws and press the pin out.

The old bushings get destroyed in the process , but you're installing new ones anyway ...

Ok that seems to make sense, how about reinstallation..?? Reverse the process?

Thanks

That's what I'm dealing with right now, did you have trouble getting it to go to 4th or 2nd

That's what I'm dealing with right now, did you have trouble getting it to go to 4th or 2nd
[/quote]

Fourth was fine, second a different story.. due to the tranny

[quote name='Porschef' date='Jun 27 2013, 04:52 PM' post='1886144']
That's what I'm dealing with right now, did you have trouble getting it to go to 4th or 2nd
[/quote]

Fourth was fine, second a different story.. due to the tranny
[/quote]
Yeah it was 2nd and then 4th I had to give it a good wak..to get it in 4th.

I recently changed mine and after trying it with a vice at home, i decided to take it to a local mechanic. He pressed out the old one and put in the new one for $5. Having the right tools makes everything easier.

I just completed replacing these bushings.
I used a deep socket that the outside diameter was smaller than the aluminum casting, but the interior diameter was bigger than the pin (I believe I used a 5/8" socket, but can't state definitively).
A little silicone lube, an old bolt, and a 2 lb sledge used judiciously was enough to remove, and then reinstall, the bushings.
The hardest part I found was pushing the new bushings into place. Compared to the bushings, reinstalling the pin was a breeze.

Somebody needs to do a how to photo shoot...

Joe, I have a spare coupler if you break yours




Thanks Scott..

I have bushings, if you need any

I have just gone through this whole process and I am no Rocket Scientist but was able to get everything accomplished and am enjoying the fruits of awesome shifting.
Pelican parts has a great explanation in Tech Notes for the 914.
Installing the Coupler Bushings use a bolt with washers and a nut and pull it into position, someone on 914 World has a picture of the device they made search and find.
I used my bench vise and sockets to push the pin through, make sure you put some lithium grease on the inside of the Coupler Bushings before reinstalling the pin.
If you are struggling with replacing the Firewall Bushing, (replace this while you are in there, it is not expensive). Put the plastic piece in boiling water for three minutes, you can then push it in place with one hand.

The final thing I would suggest is make sure you put the plastic transmission cover on prior to attaching the cone screws as the plastic dot on them is for one application only, or use loctite.

You will/ should be pleasantly surprised by the results. When I started mine all I had was information gleaned from 914 World use your search option and all the answers will come to you. All in all I spent 3 hours on this and spent less than $50.00 and got 100% better and more accurate shifting. It was an extremely gratifying repair!

Vysoc

I did this job just last night. Including R and R the rod, it took about an hour. (Seemed a lot longer!)

I have a press but its about 40 miles away. So I used a deep socket, 2# hammer and a brass drift. It took a few good whacks to get the pin to budge. It moved a lot easier after it was about halfway out. When you look at the pin you will see why.

Getting the bushings in was a chore too but just look at them to see where the hangup is.

You have to whack the pin back in and the bushing and/or aluminum has to take the load whether you press it or whack it. Just spread the load over as much area as you can. You could file the pin a bit and it will go in easier if you are squeemish but mine went in without damage.

It was a nice cool evening after a blistering hot day so the one hour test drive was doubly nice.

If you have the time, freeze the pin overnight. This will shrink it a bit. Then when you're ready, press (or pound) it back in while its still cold

set the whole assembly on the ground.
Put a 15 mm deep socket underneath and ensure the edges are resting on the black bushing, and nothing is touching the aluminum housing.

Using a FAT nail set, or punch, pound out the pin.

Once you get one side free, the rest is not to hard...
The bushings go in and out from the inside of the housing...
You need to remove the pin all the way from the shift rod to complete the job of putting in new bushings, lining everything up...then pound the pin back in place.

Rich

bring it up joe, we'll get 'er done