alt is in and put the battery wire to the + and the ground wire to the -.

Shouldn't I get 12 volts when off and 13-14 volts while running?

What am I missing, it just reads 12.

This alt has and integral voltage regulator, so I expect the external reg is no longer needed.

KT

yes correct...you do not need the external voltage regualtor....if your alt wiring is connected correctly, and still getting 12 volts in running condition, then your internal voltage reg is the culprit....

j

could it have anything to do with it not having a load for the voltage regulator to sense???

This is insane!
My new alternator doesn't work and it is louder than I scream

KT

What makes you think the alternator has an internal regulator?
IIRC, 911s didn't have internal regs till around 74-75....I'd have to look it up to be sure. My mystery motor, 2.4 L, which *I think* was a 72 had an external reg and I'm still using it.

Having said that, when it ran un-regulated...broke the D- wire, it put out 17.4 V. That kilt an Optima.

I'm not an expert on the subject, but I've heard that one should never run an alternator free....as without somewhere for the generated electricty to go....in this case, to a battery.

The paper work that came with it say "Integral regulator".

I have the wires connected to the battery.


Mike, isn't the motor running considered a load?

KT

Now that it's out and on the bench, what can I do to verify that it works with a volt/ohm meter?

This is frustrating.

KT

put it all back together, run the engine, get the combo gauge out of your car, hook it up and see if the "G" light goes out ...

Andy

Which wires go where?

The new set up has bat+, neg-, and indicator light.

+ and - are on the battery how do I complete the test?

Why don't i simply get 14 volts off the battery while it runs like normal?

KT

I don't mean to be mean, but you do have the indicator lamp hooked up?

The lamp (I believe 2 watt) must be hooked up for the charging system to work. It is part of the exciter circuit.

Without it, you will get no charging.

I can give a SWAG.

Looking at the 82 SC wiring diagram, the wire you're calling "indicator light" is a hot lead (incoming blue) D+ ( for the exciter field, me thinks)......but ......look at a diagram yourself. If magic smoke comes out, don't blame me.

The 82 911 *appears* to be the first year with the internal regulator. It shows no DF wire (field).

What *should* be there (my best guess):
Big ground wire to case bolt.
Big red to starter/BATT
Brown (D-) to ground in the electrical system....common to the other brown wires.
blue to field (D+)

(edit) I'm also slow on the draw..... or type

I had my 82 SC's alt out once bout 7-8 years ago. My memory sux.

Welcome to the world of swaping electrical parts year to year, car to car. I spent bout 25 hrs poring over the 914 & 911 wiring dias to get mine hooked up..and I had a external reg.

I'm good

I have a spare 914 fuel guage combo with the "G" light in it, the new combo guage has it too, come to think of it.

For testing purposes, where does the indicator light go and how do I include the gauge in my test "harness".

I will make any leads neccesary to test this alt'n'r.

I don't want to take the motor back out because I have charging problems with my *new* unit.

Would you?

KT

From my reading of the wiring diagram, you need to run a wire from battery + to D+ to get things charging.

Green wire to DF on the Voltage Regulator.
Red Wire to D+ on the VR.
Brown Wire to D- on the VR.
Jumper Wire from Bat+ to D+ on the VR.

I think that should work, but I'm not accepting responsibility.

thanks , Mark...but...the new unit has the integral VR

Oh yeah. Then a 1 wire alternator should be self-exciting. I'm no help.

Well, if I recall correctly, the exciter circuit works like this:

Apply battery voltage to the charge indicator bulb (2 WATTS I believe). The other side of the bulb goes to the alternator/voltage regulator (D+).

The "other" terminals are:

(B+) Battery +

(D-) Ground or Battery -

I hope this helps.

P.S.

The (D+) may be blue in color.
The (B+) may be red in color.
The (D-) may be brown in color.

Thanks, I'll try it tomorrow.

KT

While you've got the alternator out, take it to your FLAPS and have them test it. Then you KNOW the alternator is good and can go from there....

my .02 cents.

-Matt

When I got mine back from the Alt. Rebuild, I installed it and turned it by hand before putting the motor back in, It was scraping and made a very loud sound. It turned out that the alt shop didn't put the nuts back on correctly when they attached the alt to the fan and gave it back to me! When I fixed the problem everything worked great.

Here is a photo of my alt wireing!

Jeff

That's an externally regulated bosch in the picture.

Trekkor, can you post a pic of the alt for us? The back of it.

more pics

when all else fails, read the directions.

Your are on the right track , Read em last , the women would say , its a guy thing . Git that that thing running. Damnit I ve got JP's grammar today