Ok, I am going to end up with my tank in the back in the battery box position and run a regular cooler in the front. I have no idea how to plumb it. Can I run aluminum hard line or should I go with some type of hose? Where do you run your cooler from, oil tank or engine? Is there any pressure in this system at all? Even a good link would be awesome that I could do my research on. Thanks again.

Oh, line size would also be helpful for the whole system.

do you plan to use your heater?

AN-12 (3/4" ID)
Engine sump to external thermostat that splits to the front cooler and tank, returns to tank. If you have a external filter you plumb that before the tank.
Battery tray location is going to be a bit on the high side.

I went through every thought on how to do a DIY tank cheaper, in the end I said screw it and bought a DW tank.
My research concluded front tank on a racecar, stock location tank on a street car.

Anyone wants it I have a cut up (in half) early 70's 911 tank that you can have for $20 +postage, good for parts if you feel like welding up a steel tank.

No way, just bring a jacket.

I think I will mount it in the front. I may just have to move my battery back to the regular spot. I will soon run out of room eapecially when mounting a cooler. Maybe I can make a shelf in front as well. If I put it all in the front do u think there will start becoming a weight issue?

Dose anyone have a picture or discription of the external thermostat?

Is a thermostat mandatory with these engines?

thermostats can save you from blowing out a cooler.
the thermostat will route cool (high pressure) oil around the cooler.
Then only warmed up (lower pressure) oil will flow through the cooler(s).

They also get the engine up to temp faster.

Stu

Dose anyone see a problem with running aluminum hard line? I have used it for fuel lines in the past. Stays ridged, and bends pretty much everywhere you want it, plus it may help with heat distribution.

I was considering running it from the rear remote oil filter bracket to the front trunk and back again.
Then Aramid braided hose everywhere else.

You can get it at McMastercarr cheap and in rolls.
It can be flared, but at 12AN (3/4") sizes, the flare tool is expensive.

Stu

I have partial aluminum lines on my old retired race car. It's a pain in the butt to install the lines and they like to seep at the joints. When we built the current race car it wasn't worth trying it again.

brant,


What type of fitting did you install at the ends of the al. tube?

You could: flare, compression, weld, solder
I am thinking the only one practical that would work for us is flare.

Stu

I ran under the rocker but outside the long bat the time it was a street legal car and I was worried about appearance. So threading a pre bent tube through drilled holes was tricky and flared fitting were going to just require a bIgger hole saw

It also required more fittings to go into and out of the pipe. So I might have saved the expense of around 18 ft of braided line but I spent that money on the extra 8AN fittings no real savings.