I picked up a little something for the project 2 weeks ago

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TIAL BOV arrived. I put it together to check fitment...will be perfect.

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Just a bit of massaging on the weld flange to match the profile on the IC.

Cheers,
Scott

This car is not driving yet ?

No, I planned some projects on the PorSTI while Grey was transferring owners that got out of hand chasing rust and poorly done rust repair. Back at it now.

Cheers,
Scott

The AFCO Scirocco radiator fan shroud showed up. Really nice piece but something is not right?!
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After much measuring and internet searching it turns out that it is not the standard Scirocco rad but some universal radiator for Volkswagen Golf, GTI, Rabbit, Scirocco.

Radiator

Unfortunately there is not a nice fan shroud for this rad...I guess that I will have to widen this one:welder:

Cheers,
Scott

That's a bummer Scott.

On the bright side, you get to play with your new toy (post #1001).

Business travel is over for a while so it it time to get serious about Grey.

Got the new Tig welder dialed in so it was time to finish the IC plumbing.

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The best execution looks simple...it wasn't. Many fine adjustments to get the gaps tight enough to Tig weld. Final fitting was done on the belt sander.

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Lots of work to open up the outlet of the IC, should flow cleanly.

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Still need to weld the seams on the IC and then fit the Tial BOV.

Also started modifying the radiator fan. Could have made more progress but the new brake didn't show up on Friday.

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So much more rewarding than rust repair on the PorSti!

Cheers,
Scott

What day is it...new tool day!!!

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No more to bend sheet metal.

Cheers,
Scott

Sweet!

I'll be over once I mock all my stuff up.

Nice finger brake.

I love new tool day!

You can use it any time. Just keep in mind that it is only 24" wide. I could not justify the cost or footprint of the 48".

Finished welding the IC joints and installed the BOV.

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Not quite #weldporn quality beads but nice and tidy. I did get myself in a bit of trouble on the inside of the sweeper coming out of the IC. My torch would not fit for proper arc position but I tried to make it work and left a blob that took a ton of work to smooth out. Lesson learned....always take the time to configure the torch to fit.

Cheers,
Scott

Time to fix the radiator shroud.

A little measuring, remeasuring and then again. I also had had to reshape the mounting flanges and move the mounting holes because the bosses on the radiator were shorter and in a different location.
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I do have more clamps, this was all that was necessary to keep everything aligned.
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Dialed in. That was some really, really satisfying torch time.
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The holes still line up!
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Still need to trim the mounting flanges and then back in the car.

Cheers,
Scott

Be careful , that shroud is going to murder your high speed airflow....fan is blocking airflow over about 25 , and not needed , your shroud is reducing the remaining cooling area , rendering your radiator less efficent ...

Purpose of the shroud is to increasing radiator utilization while stationary or at low speeds by allowing the fan to draw air through the entire radiator instead of just the area covered by the fan. Certainly, at speeds higher than what the fan can create, the shroud will limit the flow to what is capable of passing through the fan.

That said, I have yet to experience a shrouded radiator that cools while stationary, not cooling at high speeds. I have experienced an un-shrouded radiator not cooling effectively while stationary, that does cool at speed.


Cheers,
Scott

If your up for the challenge, you could build flaps on the other side of the rad shroud. In the above picture it would be the left side, for the flaps. So when air pressure became to great they will open up, and then close once stoped or air pressure is not great enough to over come either gravity or cavity pressure in the trunk or exhaust duct area.

This presumes that the air pressure will be greater outside the rad than inside the trunk due to speed.

More than likely over kill

Flaps are likely overkill. Easy to add later if necessary.

Finished the modifications to the shroud by removing the extra mounting ear material.

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A few things came in the mail this week.

The dash looks really good. A few scuffs here and there but really nice shape.
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Unfortunalty it is missing all of the bulb holders. Hopefully the ones from my old cluster fit.
We will need an electronic speedo from a 911 to work with the suby trans. speed sensor.
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Stainless fuel lines with AN fittings arrived from CFR. He even custom bent the engine side!

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I went through the IC pluming to make sure that it was good to go and didn't like the transition to the outlet V-band flange so I got out the die grinder and ported it a bit. The carbide burr always gets clogged when cutting aluminum so in desperation I tried AL tap magic and it made a world of difference. A few drops every once in a while and the burr stays clean!!

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Had some time left so I modified the IC water header tank. I didn't want to run a water exchange type radiator cap so I found weld fittings for a mustang radiator cap. Sliced off the old cap on the band saw and then made a sketchy fixture to cut the hole for the new fitting.

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My best AL welds to date. Really getting dialed in with the new welder. Also helped that I changed my tungsten type and got a proper tungsten grinder.
The mustang cap had a huge flange stuck out over the sides of the tank so I cut it off. Much better.

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Cheers,
Scott

Looks very nice, but really you had to add a Mustang part onto this car , better include instructions on how to do a burn out

Don't worry, I exorcised the crowd seeking mustang demons when i modified the cap.

I've actually had they very problem before with a shroud that sealed too well and excessive pressure drop through the fan limited air flow. It was pretty neat, we put yarn on the inlet duct and actually saw reversion as vehicle speeds increased (didn't happen at the magical 25 mph number though ). Like you said, not well enough shrouded it usually the issue and flaps are easy. Just though I'd put this anecdote here since it actually does happen. OTOH, that was on a racecar, street cars just don't have the high-speed, high engine load duty cycles so they're likely a bit more forgiving.

In any case, it looks great! The mustang cap looks nice too-definitely going to steal that one!

The cap idea was inspired by Bob when I found a picture of his conversion using a Volvo non vented pressurized expansion tank. I planned to use one on the Porsti's front expansion tank so that I can get rid of the coolant reservoir and the Air/Water IC tank is a good application as well.

The weld fitting for a non vented coolant exchange pressure cap was a huge pain in the ass to find. Nobody sells them for any brand of car. I eventually decided to call C&R Racing because they use them on their fabricated coolant tanks for air/water IC and Mustang engine cooling. After several discussions with various sales guys and product specialists I had a part number but they were out of stock. When I called back a couple of weeks later the sales guy was not part of the previous conversation and had to confirm again that they could sell the part and figure out a price. Eventually he did so I ordered 4 to avoid the pain in the near future.

P/N: CR-SM-CPF-001A
Price: $20

Cheers,
Scott

Thanks! That's really not a bad price either all considering.

Mounted the fuel pressure regulator and Boost controller and as always, it got a bit out of hand finding an ideal location.

I really wanted to put it behind the the intake manifold so that I could connect directly to the "T" between the fuel rails. Problem is there is not a while lot of room between the intake manifold and the charge pipe to the turbo. After a whole lot of measuring and pondering I decided that might just work...step 1, modify the fuel pressure regulator mounting bracket. Can't get 0.5mm shorter without a whole bunch of stuff interfering with each other.

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I always wanted to use press in threaded inserts so I tried to reuse the ones from the boost controller. Worked perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to buy a bunch. Who knows what they are called?

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Clearance everywhere!

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Packaging.

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One issue is that the top of the manifold was ground down so there is not a flat surface to bolt to.

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This was really bothering me so $40 on ebay later and a new manifold is on the way. The one I found even has the throttle body and throttle cable bracket! The throttle cable brake alone made it worth it so that I don't have to design/make one!

Cheers,
Scott

"I always wanted to use press in threaded inserts so I tried to reuse the ones from the boost controller. Worked perfectly. Now I just need to figure out how to buy a bunch. Who knows what they are called?"

Riv nuts?

Pem nuts. Nice looking work!

Oh yes!! Thanks.

What is up with your suby build...lost track of the build thread?

Ever since plumbing the 3 port boost controller for the first time on the PorSTI it has always bothered me why a connection was necessary back to the intake between the air filter (MAF) and turbo. Having to now add the connection for Grey I decided to find out. It is not, definitely not for a setup w/o MAF. The port is just a vent to release the pressure from the waste-gate actuator.

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I guess theoretically in a MAF system venting the volume of air already accounted for by the MAF back into the system post MAF increases accuracy but it seems like a remarkably insignificant volume of air.

The best type of plumbing is the type that is not necessary. Sintered bronze mufflers on order!

Speaking of MAF-less...I am confirming that we need to add a temp sensor into the Intake manifold.

IAT


Cheers,
Scott

You do need an IAT for speed density. Maybe need is a little strong since technical the IAT is most strongly governed by your IC efficiency curve and compressor map, so you could kind of build the correction into the load table, but it's certainly nice to have for tuning simplicity since you can just make an ideal gas correction.

Why not use the combined Bosch MAP/MAT sensor?It's a pretty slick package and requires only 1 hole in the manifold?

https://www.bmotorsports.com/shop/product_i...roducts_id/1721

It may not be so insignificant for improving IMEP COV and emissions characteristics.

Bosch...who would use their crap (I realized after writing this, probably not everyone knows that I work for Bosch)

I would but Grey's ecu has an onboard MAP sensor.

Cheers,
Scott

Nice to see progress. I can bring up my PEM setting tool on Friday, if you need one. Street Term for Mark is Riv Nuts, or Rivet Nuts, or Blind Rivet Nuts as that is what they are most akin to in most peoples knowledge of fasteners and tools. The good old Pop Rivet, or blind Rivet. Both use a mandrel to draw the pieces together and lock them in place. One advantage to the PEMs is you can also use a bolt, and backer to place them. On larger units that is exactly how you get them in there. Very handy for places you can no weld a nut or threaded sleeve in place. I figured you would have made a threaded sleeve and then welded it onto the bracket you made just to get a bit more TIG time in.

Some times it is nice just to get stuff done.

Though your places seems to be the place where my cool tools go and stay. I think your hoping I forget about my Parker's

I like the PEM in this application because I didn't have room for a riv nut. No need to bring yet another tool over. I can buy my own PEM set.

The Parker beaders on the other hand....those are worth their weigh in gold and is about what a new set costs. Don't worry, I will bring them back the moment that you need them. Which is hopefully soon, you really need to get back to your suby build one of these days.

Speaking of tools...new tool day!
DSO Nano next to the trusty Fluke Scopemeter.

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Not an instrument grade oscilloscope but a compact way to confirm sensor behavior.

Cheers,

Scott

Stephen stopped by on Friday and delivered the new dash pieces so I pulled the existing one, installed the stock one and fit the 911 style dash top.

I fit them together off the car to check for issues. Good thing that I did because the center mounting hole is shifted to use another hole that needed to be enlarged.
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Back to stock.
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OK not really.
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Then I did this....check the PorSTI build for the background.

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Not only does it look better, it eliminates the need to slot the middle mounting holes when rotating the upper part of the intake.

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Tom, I am thinking about a proposal. I'll send an email...

Cheers,
Scott

Whatcha got in mind, Scott?

Nice progress I like it.

Time for a much overdue update. Have been getting a ton of time in the garage but quite busy ouside as well so have not made time to organze pictures.

Here we go....

I talked Tom into going with the JDM manifold and man am I happy I did. The hours to smooth and intigrate it were not planned but well worth it.

First off was to add a second lug for the coolant tank.
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After many hours of cutting/grinding/welding...
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This lug stayed and made a perfect place to mount for the fuel line connections to the chassis lines.
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The aftermarket silicon turbo intake had way too many extra connections so I decided to make my own. Unfortunately it was not quite a straight shot to the turbo.
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No problem.
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Much better.
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Ooooh
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Aaaah
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Still need to make a tab and add a lug to the intake to support it.

Cheers,
Scott

Also worked on the chassis.

Swapped out the oversized spings for the springs I pulled from Porsti when I installed the coil overs. Also threw on the tie downs.
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Was going to install the windshield while I had extra hands around the garage but managed to break 2 of the trim clips. Those things are a bugger to install.
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Removed the extra stuff coming trough the firewall. Will cut out the shift rod support also. Then everything will be filled and properly placed holes added. Removed the wiley brake and clutch lines. New brake line made.
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Started mounting the coolant tanks. Battery tray removed and tiny battery mounted in the trunk.
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My parents were in down last week and my Father knocked out a ton of work on my much neglected C10. Starting to look like a truck again.
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Cheers,
Scott

Sweet! Looking good!

Scott, you are a true artist when it comes to getting all that plumbing to fit. Looks awesome.

Tom

Thanks for the kind words Tom, glad you like it. I am just a hack compared to the world class guys that I study. Each part gets closer but I have a long way to go.

Cheers,
Scott

Few "minor" tasks checked off the list.

Step one of mounting the air intake...add a threaded lug.
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Step 2, make a tab paying careful attention to leave 1 thickness of cardboard around the tube.
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Weld, no touching except the tab and turbo coupler!!
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Oh, ya...along the way I added a connection for the crank air oil separator.
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The position of the lower bung on the coolant tank was not in the best place so I moved it (re-purposed on the air intake). AN all the things!
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Welded.
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Much better.
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Almost done with the engine fab, just need to at the IAT threaded bung just in front of the throttle body.
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I had anxiety every time I looked at the mess of holes in the firewall, so I got rid of them.
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Ugly.
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Now I can sleep at night. I can't wait to put fresh holes in the proper place.
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Cheers,
Scott

Liking the engine fabrication a lot, nice and tidy. Lots of work and time spent here.

I like the firewall section also. You have electrical, fuel, shifter cables, clutch hydraulic cable going back there. Forgot the go pedal cable. I have been pondering running the shifter cables up and over the engine, like they do on the Cayman / Boxsters, nice gradual bend, away from the exhaust. Can look like crap

Its thoughts like that, that keep me up at night.

Looking good. Can't wait to hear this thing run finally.

Thanks! You also forgot the IC coolant lines.

As for the shifter cables...running them over the engine seems like a very inefficient way to get to the transmission. There is enough extra length in the Kit cables to easily pass the header on the side.

When I get back to the PorSTI I plan to run them straight back to the linkage, basically following the path of the sideshift shaft that the header was built around. Then I can get shorter cables and hopefully crisper shifting.

Cheers,
Scott

Looking good!

Yesterday was the last day in the office until after the new year so I thought that I would start the long vacation with some inspiration by test fitting the drive-train.

Fits great! Only had to remove the air filter and oil filler neck. The oil filler neck will be modified to avoid this...and because it is ugly in the stock position.

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Time to pull it back out.

Cheers,
Scott

So excited for you! Looks great!

Looking good. Great fabrication work. This is going to be one hot car.

Great to see Doug's excellent work continued in similar fashion.

Doug's a great guy and helped me engineer the mounting of the first LEDs I built. I'd like to reciprocate by donating whatever LED boards are desired. Brakes; front and rear turnsignals, reverse boards, flasher. Whatever. Let me know when the time comes to install the boards and I'll send them to you.

Thanks, looks like your car is coming together quickly also!



That is a very generous offer. As discussed via PM, Tom can let you know what he wants do do. Recommendation to Tom, get the euro boards with the driving lights that turn off when the blinker is activated, super cool.

I decided to leave the engine in for a few days so that I can work out a few routing/mounting details.

First up was the oil filler/AOS cap.
Gangly thing isn't it.
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Looks about right.
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Right where it needs to be. Took quite a bit of tweaking so that I can discretely run the octopus of OAS hoses. I set up the driver side vent to use a hose section from a stock vent hose from my bin of parts.
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Cheers,
Scott