Awesome progress!

Please don't take offense at this, but I have used silicon coolant hoses on a car with a racecar with a sealed and pressurized coolant system and noticed that the water level decreased over time (no evidence of head gasket failure when running or after disassembly). I looked it up then and found that silicon hoses allow some diffusion of water so you might want to be careful of exactly where you put them in case they need to be removed. I just worry that over time you'll leak water into the cabin, etc. Probably not much and I'm just a little over-conservative, but I just wanted to say something.

Jim, feedback based on direct personal experience with the topic at hand is always appreciated.

There are many questions about the size and material of the cooling lines. If it does not work out we can easily pull them and install lines similar to my car.

And yes Stephen...I will be beading all of the AL tubes. Have to keep the beaders fresh for you!

Cheers,
Scott

Duplicated the cabin routing to the driver's side and then added the twist for the passenger side. To clean up the front trunk area I am running the cooling line across the car under the fuel tank. Have plans tonight so no time to pull the test hose and add install edge treatments. Will hold it in place with a couple p-clamps

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One thing I noticed while I was sitting in the fuel tank area, one of the posts for the steering rack clamp is missing!?

Doug, do you have the piece that broke off so that I can weld it back in?

Cheers,
Scott

You can thank Renegade for that one. They did the V8 install I took out. There were a lot of things that had me scratching me head like that.




I believe it was like that when I stripped everything off of the tub. No clue how I'd even be able to come across one of those. Would welding a nut in place work?

Pretty simple operation , just machining the part out of some stock and get to welding it in there.

Or place a WTB add in the classifieds and see if someone comes to your rescue, with the real part.

I have quite a bit of time off during this time of year so I managed to get the cooling system pretty much finished. Still need to make the mount for the fans and ducting for the radiator but the plumbing is solid.

I hate MIG welding for many reasons but the fumes are the primary one so I picked up a Lincoln fume extractor. It turns on automatically and does a great job controlling the weld fumes.
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After removing the elbow from the heater system the remaining tube was not supported very well so I welded it to the inner long and applied edge treatment.
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I have a moving blanket in the car to lay on while I am working and the dogs decided that it would be a great place to hang out on while I was at the welding bench.
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These two pieces take the place of a dozen random connectors that Doug had in the car when it arrived. Stephen's tube beader applied the finishing touches.
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Simple but elegant solution.
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I really enjoy making parts that will only work in one place on any car.
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I welded up the access ports in the longs.
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Unfortunately I welded this one twice. I got a bit ahead of myself and welded it the first time before securing the inner tube and applying the edge treatment so I had to cut it back open and then weld back closed.
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I am off until Tuesday so i should get to make some good progress on the IC install.

Cheers,
Scott

I had a super productive day today. The plan was rock solid in my head, I had all of the material and I didn't mess up any parts!

Step one of using an off the shelf part...cut it up.

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I didn't take any pictures but I disassembled and sandblasted the throttle body. I then modified it so that the v-band half would fit on the inlet and TIG welded it on. Hours of fussing to get everything straight and level and...vuala.
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Perfect.
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Had some extra time before dinner so I started on the IC to turbo plumbing. Tubes are exactly where I want them to be. Unfortunately it is resting on the dipstick tube, alternator and intake manifold.
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The engine is going to need to come out to get this sorted. It will also make the IC mount easier to mock up. I am going to take some time to make a roller kart that I can mount on the engine cradle because I may have another project lined up that I can use it on.

Happy New Year,
Scott

Holy. Shit.

That's looking bad-ass Scott. You're a true master.

Maybe a rubber isolation coupling between the IC & TB

Ya, sure...why not.
I would only take about 7 minutes to run the intercooler and throttle body through the the bandsaw to hack off the v-band clamp that I spent all day installing and replace it with leak prone rubber/silicone coupling.

Sarcasm aside, this is an upgrade that I added to the project on my own time because I did not want Doug to have to deal with the frustration of blowing IC piping apart in the middle of an awesome high boost maneuver. Nobody should have to ever experience that.

Cheers,
Scott

How much boost are you planning to run?

Doug's turbo is good to about 17psi, same as what I am running on the Porsti. Not a huge amount but enough to cause problems. Once he gets a proper turbo that is up to what his engine is cable of...much more.

Cheers,
Scott

Saw your car move along quite well at Octeenerfest... looked like fun. Your passenger seat was occupied so I got to ride with Wes - 450hp smallblock was a great ride both days!
I'm looking at all the n/a options for extra power on my EG33 build. This build and your posts have been incorporated into my project as well - Thanks!

I can understand that and it looks very nice. My concern would be cracks in the aluminum induced by the 4 cylinder's vibration. Maybe the Suby's 4 produces very little vibration. Just speaking from A/C experience.

From my experience with persistent failure of the IC mount on the Porsti, the engine vibrates more than enough to break stuff! You can find the details and the solution in my build thread.

If you have some relevant experiences and want to share the details and how you solved the problems, it would be great to learn from them.

Cheers,
Scott

That sounds like a bit of foresight! I imagine I'll upgrade the turbo down the line, but it won't be for a while.

EG33 NA
CAMS
HEADERS
EFI

275HP maybe a bit more.

No replacement for adding positive pressure, very nice turbo will easily get you to 450HP on an EG33, and if you want to to go higher than that, well it can be done, how many $$$$$$ do you want to bring to the fight.

As usual Scott doing a great job on the build, the V-bands are the way to go. Keep on

Doug, yes you will get used to the power

As promised...new engine cart. In total it took 14 component not including casters and fasteners.

Square tubing recycled from my nieghbors fence and castors from the cart that my C10 came on.
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Threaded rod, bar stock and my bender. I coated the pads in liquid rubber to minimize scratching.
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I welded bushings into the square tube for each of the adjustable pads.
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Engine came out so easily that I forgot to take pictures! I removed the wheels and lowered the car until the drivetrain was on the cart, adjusted the pads and then removed the four mounts and lifted the body above the engine.
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Perfect fit.
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Now I can finish the IC install.
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Also made a new mount for the air tools.
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Cheers,
Scott

That's a bad-ass cart you've got there sir!

The IC install looks perfect. There's a lot going on in that little space, but you've made the most of it for sure. Definitely way better than anything I would have hobbled together.

I need to make some time to get down there to help out soon. Let's connect and see what we can come up with.

So much easier to work on the engine on the cart. Lead to a super productive day yesterday.

I made more room of the IC tube to the turbo by modifying the dip stick, removing some unneeded material from the intake manifold and remade the first tube out of the IC. It now clears the coolant elbow for removal and does not touch anything on the way under the manifold!!

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I used CAD (cardboard aided design) to figure out the parts for the IC mount.
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Many hours later.
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It fits!
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Nobody will ever see this when the engine is in the car so I have to show off some details.
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So many angles.
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Enough internets, time to get back in the garage and work on the IC plumbing.

No real progress to show from Sunday. Wife wanted to try out the Sunday brunch special, Chicken and Waffles, at one of the local microbrewerys killing half of the day. The afternoon was spent cleaning up the shop from Saturday and considering how to run the IC plumbing under the manifold with the absolute minimum bends.

I did take my normal tour of some of the great build threads on the forum to see if there were any new ideas I could steal and ran into Bob's old blue SVX powered car. He used a really nice coolant expansion tank but I can not figure out what it came from. Any ideas?

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Cheers,
Scott

It's from a Volvo. 700/900 series.

Volvo Expansion Tank

That's a good one if you have the room horizontally. No weird mounting tabs, etc.

Looking good!

Thanks for the info.
I was not expecting to see the outlet on the bottom, looks like it is intended to run pressurized. Not exactly what I was looking for but, I also reached out to Bob for the info and he has one that he is willing to part with so maybe I will play with it a bit on another project.

Cheers,
Scott

Today was the day to finally route the IC feed under the intake manifold.

After a few hours fitting and tweaking it was time to tack! The green tape is some heat resistant tape that does not leave a residue even after it gets a bit melty. It will eventually char but so much better than anything I have used previously.

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The shape does not make sense until...

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...it is in place where it fits perfectly.

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I did not have a chance to finish the last section to the turbo or shape the IC entry so that will have to wait until next time.

Cheers,
Scott

That looks great Scott! What kind of tape is that? It almost looks [and you describe it] like Kapton, except in the wrong color.

Gang-

I've had a drastic change in my personal circumstances that is forcing me to sell this car. I've tried 10 different ways to hang on to it, but it's not going to happen.

I'm completely gutted right now.

The car is listed here: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=305265

Please email me directly with any questions.

This is the Tape. Really a life changer for making this kind of stuff.

Cheers,
Scott

Well, the car officially has a new home. Sad to see it go, but happy that the project will get finished.

I'll change the name of the thread once the new owner tells me how he wants it named. Scott is still going to be working on the car for a few more months, so you'll see him chiming in here too.

I can't wait to watch the progress as it unfolds.

Life goes on... you probably feel the weight gone already. Knowing it went to a good home has got to be satisfying on some level - hell, you'll probably even get to drive it once!

Hey 914World,

we'll keep this thread going right here. Just spent the weekend driving to Ohio and back (from the Boston area) to close the deal. The car is staying at Scott's to finish up over the next 4-5 months.

The project is in pieces right now, but everything looks amazing. 90% done and 90% left to go. Stay tuned.

There will be a few changes in direction from Doug's vision, but really nothing major.

Specifically, I'm going back to stock for the dash. So, now I need the whole dash assembly, including the metal frame, top pad, knee pad, vents, etc. Let me know what you've got.

Tom

I am on the cusp of finally putting some proper rubber under the PorSTI so I took the opportunity to work on the suspension on Grey for a bit to get a feel of how much space is available under the flares.

First step was to get the car down to ride height.

I pulled the springs in the rear and found that they did not sit in the spring cups very well. The OD is ~5mm larger than what the upper cups want to hold.

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The lower spring perch works but the spring is pretty loose. Also, there was an odd spacer under it sitting on the clip that locks in the groove on the shock body.

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Anyone have any thoughts?

In the front I needed to clock the torsion bars by one spline. The Driver side did not want to come out of the control arm. I got it out and found why it was being difficult. The front of the control arm was open. Looks like the end cap was pushed out at some point.

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Looks like it could just be a welch plug. Is this part available?

Working off the lift with no rear springs makes it very easy to play with ride height. I think it looks pretty good right there.

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Driver side is rubbing on the inside and the passenger is rubbing on the fender lip but they will fit. Will trim the fender lip to give some additional room and will probably need to adjust the spacer's once it is aligned.

Cheers,
Scott

Yes the front plug is available.

http://www.sierramadrecollection.com/911-9...-89-p27259.html

Stoddard has them

Part number 900.040.008.01
Did you string Gray to see if the tow is out of wack, I think it is. But I would open up the lip like the factory did.

That spring is not right for the hat, the spring sits inside of the stock hat. Heck, I would convert it over to a set of 2.25 or 2.5 inch springs, with different hats and if it was me different collars though if you don't need to corner balance, then the stock system does work just fine. Makes me wonder if someone did not cut a stock spring, as they do wind tighter at the top to fit the stock hat. They where not installed upside down?

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The springs are Weltmeister SP180's.

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According to the internets they are for the 914 but I can't find any mention of special upper hats? I called the number on the Weltmeister website and was routed to Eckler's!? Nobody picked up.

Anybody install these springs and remember if the stock hats worked?

Cheers,
Scott

Mine are also Weltmeister SP180's and they seem to fit fine with the stock 914-4 top hat. But mine are not yet compressed, just loosely assembled.

Thanks for the feedback. Maybe the top hat is odd on Gray. Will you measure the OD of your top hat?

11.2 mm OD
10.6 mm ID

i'll bring another set of hats with me so you can compare them to the ones on gray, and an extra set of old eyes, maybe we can figure these out.

That matches Gray's top hat...must be the springs.

Spring ID 87.5mm OD 111.2mm

Can you compare against your spring.

Spring 106mm OD, 80mm ID.

With Mark's measurement and an on site consultation with Stephen, the conclusion is that the spring OD is too large...very strange.

Cheers,
Scott

I just got mine from a member here. There was at least one more world member that offered me a set for $80. Paragon also sells the springs.

I may have just ordered a Rebel rear coil over setup for the PorSTI this morning so there will be a nice set of springs kicking around the garage soon.

I claim first dibs on Scott's soon-to-be extra springs.

Good Choice BTW, Jegs carries QA1 Powder Coated Springs, great quality , very low prices, and local to you. I can tell you to pick your length wisely. And if Rebel does not get them to you soon enough to make your goal for PORSTI and a trip, then let me know, I have a set sitting on the bench never used that we can trade, as I am sure you will need them before I need them on my EG swap.

Back to normal "Grey" conversations now.

I still love the color of this car overtime I see it.

I've got the same issue with mine - Weltmeister 180s and the stock tops don't work. I've been looking a bit and haven't found an answer or any mention of it til now.

Yard art?

Sad but there is not much else that can be done with them.

A little heat and flare out the lip, weld on a couple of retaining tabs and problem solved?

Anything new going on here?

As a matter of fact.. yes, there is.

Scott will be re-starting the build in the near future. Stay tuned.