I am finally going to bite the bullet and install a front oil cooler. I have searched and searched and on this topic there is a bit too much info and hard to sort through all the posts. I have a few basic questions and I was hoping that someone could help or point me in the direction. All the rest seemed pretty straight forward.

I plan on using a sandwich plate (with plugged intermediate plate). I have a 4 cyl 2258. For the most part, the car is used for driving around and rare auto x. I have a schadek 26mm pump however I also have a 30mm that isnt installed yet- I plan on installing the schadek 30mm pump when I install the new cooler.

Questions-
1. Is it ok to use a sandwich plate for a front oil cooler? If ok- can someone point me in the direction of which one to buy?

2. Is it ok to use -8AN lines (steel braided)?

3. What is the general consensus on the most cost effective cooler for up front?

I don't know about a sandwich plate.

-8 lines are small. very restrictive over the length of run. I'm running -12 lines for my car. I think you should run a -10 minimum.

The RX-7 cooler is almost the same shape and size as an original GT cooler. You can find them for under $100.

an10 minimum
an12 recommended.

what size are the lines to your rear cooler?
wonder if that is part of your cooling problem


the RX7 cooler has some issues
used coolers are not worth the risk in general

On my rear cooler- I have an8 lines. My engine stays pretty cool for the most part however there are certain situations that can cause the temp to go a bit higher than I would like. I was planning on installing a front cooler this winter however I think I should just do it now.

I should have noted that I really do not want to mess with a used cooler. I have had bad experiences int eh past with used cooler.

What brand and model of cooler should I look at?

How about this one?

Setrab- 16inches wide, 3 inches tall and 2 deep

http://www.ebay.com/itm/271200794472?ssPag...984.m1423.l2649

I suggest you reconsider the whole front mount idea. A mid or rear mounted cooler is sufficient for big sixes and avoids hacking into the body and bumper. Not to mention the added effort and expense.

Unfortunately, due to my engine and exhaust layout, I am somewhat limited as to the installation location options. I have a moderate size setrab cooler with fan but I have not been successful finding a location that cools adequately. My temps are not horrible for the most part but on occasion, they will climb o temps that I am not overly comfortable with.

I'd go with bigger lines and steel braided is a must.

And as far as effectiveness, my 2.4 has never gotten hot.

"A "must"? Why not plain rubber pushloc hose? Worked for racers I know for years. Less expensive, pretty much failsafe, easier to work with, and you're not paying for the bling.

The Cap'n

I've used Parker pushloc for 25 years and I've never had a failure.

....but I do "sort of" disagree with the "plain rubber pushloc hose" statement.
Parker pushloc is a system, you must use their barb fittings and no clamps.
I will never use the el'cheapo oil hose with the garden hose barbs and clamps.

The engine in my car is about the same as yours but just short of 2.2 (76 crank and 96 pistons). I use a sandwich plate. Not the best thing but most certainly the easiest. I would certainly agree that -12 hose would be the best way to go and that is what I use. Steel braid is a bit of over kill but it is also what I use but I use it for the same reason I have vented brake rotors all the way around because it looks cool. My external cooler is under the rear trunk and worked well until I installed a really low air dam in the front and not much air goes under the car. I installed a scoop in the left rocker panel and ducted the air to the cooler with a 3 inch duct. Works great. Having said that, I will probably start installing a front oil cooler after the RCC. Why? Because it looks cool and I always need a project for this car and I'm sure it will have a six in it someday... Really soon... I think... Maybe.

Elliot- We have very similar setups. We have the same size engines- same headers, etc. I have a similar setup for the external cooler and ducting. I never considered that my super low air dam may be contributing to the problem. Tonight I will change the air dam to an old LE that I have laying around and see what happens.

Last night I ordered a big front cooler, stainless hoses and connectors. I plan on changing back to my big, low air dam once I install the front cooler (cause it looks cool ) once everything arrives.

What I meant to say is that if you've made the decision to go with braided line, make sure it's the stainless wrapped variety. I used the lighter weight, fabric wrapped material and had a major failure.

When I bought my orange car, it came with this Earl's sandwich adapter with thermostat.
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
It is plumbed to a front mounted oil cooler like this one
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I was still getting high oil temps so I was told I should/needed to block off the oil pressure relief valve in the intermediate flange because the oil was not circulating to the oil cooler so I installed this
Click to view attachment

What type of oil pump do you have?

stock, maybe that's the problem? I was told the block off was needed because the oil was escaping through the oil pressure relief ball and spring in the intermediate flange and not going through the cooler

Is your oil pressure ok?

yes

Also, I took off the intermediate plate off and plugged the bypass valve by by drilling, tapping a hole on the top of the plate and ran bolt through which blocks the bypass ball from moving. I locked it in place with jb weld.

So I have been searching for oil line routing to the front cooler. I am planning on running stainless braided lines under the passenger rocker. All of the pictures that I can find involve running the lines partially in the back and front of the passenger cabin. Is there any way to avoid running the lines through the passenger cabin while still running them under the rocker panels? I really don't mind routing the lines in the back of the passenger compartment however I would like to avoid running them through the passenger footwell.

Under or on the side of the car, but wouldn't recommend that approach.

Ok- It scares me a bit to have the lines outside so is it safe to have oil lines running under the passengers feet? Is it ok to run them under the carpet?

Oil cooler lines inside the car will make it really hot inside. I've seen many installations with oil lines running under the rocker panels. Which is what I will probably do when installing my front oil cooler.

So I just changed over from my snow plow air dam to a LE airdam. I drove my car for about 45 minute of stop and go traffic, accelerating hard when possible. Normally my oil temps would have gotten quite high. With only the change in airdam, now my temps didn't get over 210!!!!

Probably allows the factory flaps to create the low pressure area needed to bring cooler outside air in through the engine lid and cool the engine better? Depending on the year. I'm not sure when the flaps were installed.

FYI- mine is a 1973 and does have flaps.

The oil cooler lines on the Yellow Zonker ran under the rocker panels. After exiting the rocker panels, it follows the inside of the fender, then back into the front trunk to the Mazda RX 7 cooler. I worked great while I owned the car. I sold the car a few years ago and hope it still does.

My black car is also routed close to the yellow sinker. I drilled two holes up high behind the tire and pass through the inner fender to behind the stock gas tank. Then within the trunk I route down along the tank. Beneath the sway and another hole in the firewall panel to come out into the spare tire cavity and forward