Easy first one....see if you have 12vdc on any given circuit.

Name more please

Check output of alternator. (too easy) Compare to battery output.

High impedance to a ground connection.

Confirming a FI wiring harness is intact.

Testing for proper reading of all D-jet sensors

Tracking down the butchering that some people do to the fuel pump power circuit when installing carbs in order to get d-jet working again. (Still cant figure out why someone would cut the same wire in 3 separate places)

Tracking down a battery drain.

Put meter in Amps mode and insert between Car + & Battery +.
Most of our cheap DMMs can do up to 10.0 Amps before they blow a fuse.

Trace wire connections.

Locate switched and constant power connections.

Check MPS

Check WUR

& more

Set it on the tool box to hold down you wire diagram and use a Power Probe.

One I have done frequently recently... Static timing test to fine tune exactly when the points open.

Poke the wiseass other 914 owner that shows up to your house telling you he'll help you figure it out, but just ends up drinking all of your beer.

Check reverse switch on trans while the trans is on the bench.

ohm out [check the resistance] plug wires.
- injectors
- check for open circuit on relay board.
- check ignition switch continuity.
- verify relay provides power when energized.


I can still go on!

a volt ohm meter should be one of your most important tools for trouble shooting!

How? I've done a search to this and come up empty.

test alt with +lead to alt charge out -lead to ground, test batt with +lead to +post of batt and - lead to ground and compare V readings.

As a continuity tester to check trigger point function, & TPS calibration.

anyone ever use a mutlimeter to check dwell on the points?
I have a dwell meter, but I was curious how to set the dwell without that meter, and with just a multimeter while on a road trip, broken down etc.

If so, can anyone describe the process?

Rich

Rich, you need a multimeter with that function, as far as I know. There are some with it, but not many are produced that way these days - no cars with points.

Put meter across battery in volts mode, engine not running, record voltage (should be ~12.6 volts).
Start car and check at ~2500 RPM, record voltage (should be ~14.5 volts).

If there is no difference between these two measurements, then the alternator is not charging.

Stu

Morse code with the continuity beep function

Alternator could be working but the could be a open or high resistance from the. The alternator ant the battery.
Thats why with the engine running you check at the + on the alt and then compare at the battery

On the 914 the charge wire goes from the alt to the starter then from there to the batt. 3 places to have corroded or loose connections

Heard that with a couple of diodes inline one could use a mutli meter.

Hoping one of our resident geniuses would know how to do this properly.

My kit has a mutlimeter in it...and a set of point, feeler etc..
Never worried me to do points with a matchbook just to get home, but I am curious if its possible to do better...and actually set it right.
Just for your own fun knowledge...a matchbook is the correct width to get them set and get home...

Dwell meter is not part of my road toolkit, nor will it ever be.

rich

So if you check the alternator output at the starter, but you think your battery may not be getting a good charge, then the Voltage Regulator is suspect because it's in between the Alternator and the Battery? If so, how can you use a multimeter to test the VR?

Alternator output is AC.
Voltage regulator output is DC.
If the correct AC voltage is going into the VR and the wrong voltage is coming out of the VR, the VR is bad.

So test input and output...and no I don't know the correct AC voltage to read, but its hear somewhere...someone posted it more than a few times.

rich

Output of the alternator is DC! Due to the full wave bridge rectifier.
Tom

So, lets take this one step further.

You are stranded on the side of the road...
You have fuses, replacement bulbs, wrenches, allen wrenches, knife, electrical tape..and the one and only multi meter.

If you had to take apart said multi meter for parts....what else could you do to get a 914 home....

Rich

I could pawn my $700 Fluke process meter to pay for the tow home...

I could McGuyver some shit but that don't help when a radiator hose blows...

I would Not scab out parts of my vom!!!!

I would use the vom to help with scabbing out other non-necessary circuits on the car to get it going again.

Ah, that would make sense. Otherwise, how would they make a multimeter with that function, right? I'd assume you would change the diodes based on whether it was 4,6, or 8 cylinders.



Funny enough, that's one of the first things my dad taught me about aircooleds or cars with points in general.

Get the book, "how to keep your aircooled car alive" which is the first dummies book ever, and a great read.

Great thread Rich.........

How bout checking for resistance (ohms) on all the grounding points on the chassis.

For the breakdown stuff....brings to mind a member here and friend..."the more prepared you are for a breakdown the less you will have".

You could use the leads on the multimeter to jump and bad fuel pump or CHT lead to ground.

Set the multimeter to ohms and then put a probe in each hand and squeeze the probes really hard. The harder you squeeze the more the needle moves. Great test to see how strong you are!!

the voltage regulator reads a "sample level " at the batt and "compares" that to the charge voltage to the batt and adjusts the voltage to the field to increase the charge current to the batt. that is how the voltage regulator works.

if the V/r is in question clean and check all connections. this is what I found for benching a v/r http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=RD7ySDiNdwA