I am really thinking about taking the carbs off my engine and getting back to the FI. I have a complete FI system with the exception of the fuel pump and breather for a 2.0.

I am getting my car ready for Okteenerfest and I am not in a position to go through a long find the problem and fix process. So it either has to work the first time or it is a no go. If it does not work then it would be some time before I got back to working out the problems.

The engine bay relay board has no relays so I am not even sure if the electrical connections required still exist.

So what I need to do is get my hands on some relays, a fuel pump, and breather to conduct the test. I was going to do a brain box test by swapping out with another car.

Anyone have any of these parts that they would consider loaning for a test? I would be happy to put the appropriate "sale" amount in a check or their Paypal account as insurance and pay all shipping.

I have a complete 2.0L FI system and two spare relay boards.

I would like to keep the FI system together if possible.
What carbs do you have? Italian Webers?

Stu

Is this intended for your 1.8L car?

Jeff this is for the 2.0 I replaced the 1.8 with. Actually 2056.

i think it's a 2056 jeff. not sure of the cam. mcmark knows.

I am not sure where they were made but they are weber 44s. I only missing the fuel pump and breather.

I guess I am not sure how much of the relay board is required to run the FI?

Stock cam always intended to go back to FI.

Do you have a stock cam? You should consider putting in Ljet FI

Stock cam. That is a possibility in the future but I currently have the stock D-jet

Main relay and fuel pump relay are required. For the pump, you will want to go with the later style and relocate up front if it is not there already as this will save you trouble down the line, you can get them aftermarket new on ebay for 50 bucks.

ECU and MPS you wont be able to bench test without special tools, everything else is pretty simple.

for a 2056 with a custom cam its going to take a bit of tweaking to run right, depending on the cam it might not be possible.

I wouldn't put a $50 "new" FI pump on my bicycle, much less my car .................

The Cap'n, seen that way too many times.

I agree for the long run. But if a $50 pump tells me it makes sense to or not to invest in a new pump to make the system operational then it seems like a reasonable test.

I agree for the long run. But if a $50 pump tells me it makes sense to or not to invest in a new pump to make the system operational then it seems like a reasonable test.

Don't get me wrong, I wouldn't drive cross country on one, at least not without a spare, but they do work and the one I have has proven to be more reliable then the 3 different 40 year old OEM 3 port pumps and 1 leaky Bosch 2 port pump I have had in the car recently.

Also, I don't think price is really a factor of quality here as up until 2-3 year ago you could still get the Bosch one for 50 bucks.

If you don't mind the noise MSD makes a pump that works well for about 100 bucks, put one on my autocross car about 8 years ago and not a problem yet. its 3/8s on the input side as well so finding filters is not such a PITA.

fuel pump is simple to obtain, get the two port pump and put it up front.
What breather are you talking about that you are missing?

rich

Everything from the throttle body up.

Stock cam.

You should be able to acquire the needed FI parts, pretest their individual function and then its an easy bolt on and drive.

I agree Jeff. But seeing as there have been some questionable repairs on this car, I am concerned about the electrical from the relay board to the other parts of the car. But maybe I should just get a breather and pump and go for it? I can always switch back to carbs but I am hesitant to make that purchase when the electrical side is an unknown.

You mean the air cleaner housing? That's the only thing I can think of that would be above the throttle body.

As for the electrical, the only things that could really be a problem outside of the harnesses you are adding back for the d-jet would really just be

1. The relay board itself (super easy to replace)

2. The hot wire from the relay board to the fuel pump (The last car I brought back from carbs had this cut in 3 places for some reason. Single wire in the main harness connector at the relay board, easy to replace if you don't mind running it on the outside of the harness, and if you are relocating the pump to the front then you will probably do this anyways.

The only thing d-jet needs from the chassis itself is power to the ECU and the relay to the pump working.

Other then that, do like Jeff says and test every component you can, while you are doing that make sure all the component numbers match up for a specific year.

you can prove the systems work while you wait to find the correct air cleaner setup, with mounting brackets for the 2.0 liter.

Bontempi at HPH in California may have some, also McMark may have some as well.

AA is another place that may have the air cleaner box.

Fuel pump should be new.
If you have everything else, you should be able to flip it to Fuel Injection in a day, then tune it in a day.

You WILL need to tune your MPS for the larger displacement.

rich

That makes me feel better about things. So I am sending you and Rich plane tickets to trouble shoot the process. Well not really but that would be great. So I am going to get a pump and go from there.

What purpose do the other relay spots on the board play?

it looks like this. i'd just use the key for the switch in the current switch unless you want to tear the perfectly fine assems apart.