Hi, I just replaced my front and back brake pads with a porterfield pads but now whenever I brake and at less than 10 miles/hr speed almost before stop, I have a loud squeaking sound.
How can I fix this or should I still need to drive it more a few miles before it fix the problem?
Thank you again!
Full Version: Squeaking Brake on new Porterfield pads
If these are the "R" pads, they may never stop squeaking
If they are the "RS" pads, just keep driving and they will be quiet
I'm very happy w my RS pads
If they are the "RS" pads, just keep driving and they will be quiet
I'm very happy w my RS pads
A few questions.
1. Which compound (i.e. R-4) are you using?
2. Have you bedded them properly?
3. Were the rotors new as well? If not...
4. Did you scratch up the rotor surfaces with emery paper before installing the new pads?
In general and ahead of time, assuming the answer to number 3 is no, is that lightly sanding the rotor surfaces with 220 grit works like a charm. Now that only applies if they're flat enough. If they aren't get them surfaced at a competent brake shop, lightly sand the pads on a very flat surface, and reinstall everything.
Good luck
1. Which compound (i.e. R-4) are you using?
2. Have you bedded them properly?
3. Were the rotors new as well? If not...
4. Did you scratch up the rotor surfaces with emery paper before installing the new pads?
In general and ahead of time, assuming the answer to number 3 is no, is that lightly sanding the rotor surfaces with 220 grit works like a charm. Now that only applies if they're flat enough. If they aren't get them surfaced at a competent brake shop, lightly sand the pads on a very flat surface, and reinstall everything.
Good luck
QUOTE(pcar916 @ Sep 16 2013, 12:26 PM) 
2. Have you bedded them properly?
Erc has a good writeup somewhere here on how to bed them in correctly.
QUOTE(SirAndy @ Sep 16 2013, 11:28 AM)
QUOTE(pcar916 @ Sep 16 2013, 12:26 PM)
2. Have you bedded them properly?
Erc has a good writeup somewhere here on how to bed them in correctly.
It works and frankly it was a lot of fun!
If it doesn't stop squealing look at the back of the pads. I had 1 that started making noise after a few hundred miles and I found the material on the back of 1 pad was torn loose. I replaced the bad pad and it has been quiet for 5k miles. Mine are R4-S IIRC.
QUOTE(ChrisNPDrider @ Sep 16 2013, 12:23 PM)
If these are the "R" pads, they may never stop squeaking
If they are the "RS" pads, just keep driving and they will be quiet
I'm very happy w my RS pads
Yes I got the R4-S sir. Yes maybe I should drive it and wait after a few more miles drive. Thanks for responding!
QUOTE(pcar916 @ Sep 16 2013, 12:26 PM)
A few questions.
1. Which compound (i.e. R-4) are you using?
2. Have you bedded them properly?
3. Were the rotors new as well? If not...
4. Did you scratch up the rotor surfaces with emery paper before installing the new pads?
In general and ahead of time, assuming the answer to number 3 is no, is that lightly sanding the rotor surfaces with 220 grit works like a charm. Now that only applies if they're flat enough. If they aren't get them surfaced at a competent brake shop, lightly sand the pads on a very flat surface, and reinstall everything.
Good luck
Hi Sir,
Ans: 1. R4-S
2. Maybe I'll check them again and check the proper way of doing it.
3. Same rotors I used since it is still in very good shape.
4. I just did a sand paper cleaning.
And I will check also the suggestions of the others to use Eric's write up on how to properly bed them.
Thank you and God Bless!
New Pad Bedding/Break-In
How to break-in your new pads for optimum performance
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! PMB Performance does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."
How to break-in your new pads for optimum performance
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! PMB Performance does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."
Wow that is very detailed instructions sir! Thank you so much and I will try doing this when I got the chance early in the morning or maybe late at night.
Thanks again to all who made a comments/suggestions. God Bless you all 914 members!!!
Noel
===========================
New Pad Bedding/Break-In
How to break-in your new pads for optimum performance
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! PMB Performance does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."
Thanks again to all who made a comments/suggestions. God Bless you all 914 members!!!
Noel
===========================
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Sep 16 2013, 04:17 PM)
New Pad Bedding/Break-In
How to break-in your new pads for optimum performance
When following these instructions, please avoid doing it in the presence of other vehicles. Breaking in your new pads and rotors is often best done very early in the morning, since other drivers will have no idea what you are up to and will respond in a variety of ways ranging from fear to curiosity to aggression. And an officer of the law will probably not understand when you try to explain why you were driving erratically! PMB Performance does not endorse speeding on public roads and takes no responsibility for any injuries or tickets you may receive while following these instructions.
From a speed of about 60mph, gently apply the brakes to slow the car down to about 45mph, then accelerate back up to 60mph and repeat. Do this about four or five times to bring the brakes up to operating temperature. This prevents you from thermally shocking the rotors and pads in the next steps.
Make a series of eight near-stops from 60 to about 10 mph. Do it HARD by pressing on the brakes firmly, just shy of locking the wheels or engaging ABS. At the end of each slowdown, immediately accelerate back to 60mph. DO NOT COME TO A COMPLETE STOP! (Note: With less aggressive street pads and/or stock brake calipers, you may need to do this fewer times. If your pedal gets soft or you feel the brakes going away, then you've done enough. Proceed to the next step.)
During this process, you must not come to a complete stop because you will transfer (imprint) pad material onto the hot rotors, which can lead to vibration, uneven braking, and could even ruin the rotors.
Depending on the pads you are using, the brakes may begin to fade slightly after the 7th or 8th near-stop. This fade will stabilize, but not completely go away until the brakes have fully cooled. A bad smell from the brakes, and even some smoke, is normal.
After the 8th near-stop, accelerate back up to speed and drive around for as long as possible without using the brakes. The brakes will need at least 10 minutes to cool down. Obviously, it's OK to use the brakes to avoid an accident, but try to minimize their use until they have cooled.
If club race pads, such as Pagid Orange or Porterfield R4, are being used, add four near-stops from 80 to 10mph. If full race pads, such as Pagid Black, are being used, add four near-stops from 100 to 10 mph.
After the break-in cycle, there should be a blue tint and a light gray film on the rotor face. The blue tint tells you the rotor has reached break-in temperature and the gray film is pad material starting to transfer onto the rotor face. This is what you are looking for. The best braking occurs when there is an even layer of of pad material deposited across the face of the rotors. This minimizes squealing, increases braking torque, and maximizes pad and rotor life.
After the first break in cycle shown above, the brakes may still not be fully broken in. A second bed-in cycle, AFTER the brakes have cooled down fully from the first cycle, may be necessary before the brakes really start to perform well. If you've just installed a big brake kit, the pedal travel may not feel as firm as you expected. After the second cycle, the pedal will become noticeably firmer."
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