Any real world experience applying, and painting over POR-15? I've read their FAQ, but I want to hear from people that have actually used it.

I made sure to follow the instructions exactly as they wrote them. Several important points are: wear rubber gloves, use plenty of ventilation, take only the paint out of the can you plan to use and use a piece of a plastic bag under the lid when you reseal it. Good luck

If you get any on your skin, make sure do either of the following...

1. Wipe it off immediately with solvent (like Goof Off)

2. Make sure that whatever is on you is in an attractive tattoo-like design, because it's gonna be on your skin for a couple of weeks.

Ask me how I know.

Well that's a start. I've been dealing with paint stripper though, so the prophylactic for the hands.

Any experience top coating it with normal paints?

I have painted over with no problems. Looked kinda funny though, all that Por15 and other paint over that on my hands, clothes, you name it.
Geoff

I painted right over it likeit wan't there. No problems so far. The stuff is hard and shiney, so I think a little scuffing is in order.

I used some in my engine bay. I called the company and they told me if I didn't use their primer stuff I should paint over the POR-15 while the last coat was still tacky, like 15 minutes after it is applied. Worked great for me.

Chris H.

Thanks guys. This is an interesting comment though:



I've heard this before, but I also recall seeing something about painting over it with any other paint after just scuffing with 600 grit.

Keep us updated on your progress, will you Gint? I'll be doing the floorpans soon & will want to paint over the POR15 when the welding is done. I'd appreciate any tips you can offer.

Brake cleaner takes Por-15 right off your skin, but only when it's wet.

I left a little dot on my arm to see if it was hard to get off. -_-

I got it off no problem, oh, it did take the skin with it!

Happy to Mark. Just keep an eye on my "rusto" thread. The link is in my sig. That's why I'm recording the progress this way.

I'm reasonably sure you can't weld through POR-15 at all though. Steve is out of town until next Wednesday so I can't ask him at the moment.

You're bringing back memories Gentlemen.... really bad ones....

I had that crap on my wrists just above the glove for a month! I even got a tiny fleck on my nose so it looked like a black mole for 3 weeks.... I had to go to an interview that way too! Got the job though if I want it so maybe it was good luck!


Chris H.

It's sometimes is difficult to reseal the can with plastic between the can and the lid. I pour it out of the can into an empty pickel or mayonase jar. Make sure there is no por15 on the lid or threads of the jar when you put the lid back on.

Cheers, Elliot


And don't drink it!!

I've done a few things with it: pedal cluster, engine bay, and parts of the race chassis.
All good pointers so far but I would add that moisturizing lotion a few times a day and some scrubbing will get the paint off skin in a few days.
I used a plastic scoop from a 'weight gainer mix' and an acid brush for small items. Once dry I can just pop the POR15 out and reuse the scoop.
Doubled over Saran wrap to keep the lid free though I still have to pry it off on some spots.

Chris
914N6 and some

Here's some POR experience from last night.

"Marine Clean" smells and acts like concentrated Formula 409. And then they tell you to cut it between 1:1 and 1:5 with hot water prior to use. From now on, I'll use my regular process of wiping down with laquer thinner, and then a good auto-body supply store degreaer. Marine Clean is a waste of money.

"Metal Ready" SUCKS. I bought a quart just to try it out, and it was a waste of money, too.

Go to Ace Hardware and ask for Skyco Ospho for use under POR-15. Comes in gallons, for about 20 bucks.

Both products are phosporus based, but the Skyco Ospho actually etches the metal. I'm really not sure what "Metal Ready" does, except burn if you get it in your eyes. It's obvious that Skyco Ospho is MUCH stronger and does a better job etching bare metal and converting the rust to a hard black coating.

-Rusty

Now we're getting some where. This is good stuff. I like that pickle/mason jar idea.

Rusty,
We'll have to talk about this sometime in the next week or so.

What does "etching" mean? I hear it a lot - self etching primer etc., what does it actually do?

I use a Ball/Mason jar, too. Cover it in loose saran wrap, put the top on.

Store it upside down in the fridge... it'll last forever that way. The POR-15 tech support folks told me that as long as it doesn't harden on the top, it's still good.

-Rusty

One more time, please-------------"What does "etching" mean? I hear it a lot - self etching primer etc., what does it actually do? "

I was watching the car shows on TNN this morning and on one program (might have been "Trucks") they featured a product very similar to POR-15 that was called (IIRC) "Chassis Saver". Chemically reacts with rust to turn it into something better.

As the context implies, it chemically "etches" the surface of the metal. Especially important if the metal is smooth and has no roughness or "tooth" for paint to adhere to. That's the best I can do. I was hoping a friendly BBS chemist/metallurgist would pipe up and give a technical answer to your question.



Magnet Paints \"Chassis Saver\" link

Thanks. Gint. So one would would use an etching primer only on bare metal? Is it appropriate to use over old paint?

From what I understand, etching primer would only be used on bare metal. There would be no point in applying it over paint. For that you "scuff" or lightly sand the paint with 400 or 600 grit before applying new paint or primer.

But I'm no expert. I'm learning this as I go.