In going over the car for some new shocks, I noticed a little ear under the cup on the rear shock. After taking off the nut, the cup had broken off and the metal was pretty torn. You can see the rubber bushing underneath is starting to come through the hole. I'm guessing one more track day and it would have completely failed.
A set of Tangerine (Racer Chris) raised rear mounts are on the way!
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Full Version: Rear Shock Tower Tear
wow.
HAve you read Jaroons thread on this area?
He pealed back the wall that separates the engine bay from the rear trunk at the shock towers to find almost no welds in there...might be worth a look for you.
rich
HAve you read Jaroons thread on this area?
He pealed back the wall that separates the engine bay from the rear trunk at the shock towers to find almost no welds in there...might be worth a look for you.
rich
QUOTE(r_towle @ Sep 23 2013, 12:54 PM) 
wow.
HAve you read Jaroons thread on this area?
He pealed back the wall that separates the engine bay from the rear trunk at the shock towers to find almost no welds in there...might be worth a look for you.
rich
Thanks for that reference. I hadn't read that. Maybe I have some more work to do.....
Wow, you really need or read that thread, it's pretty old.
It's also very enlightening.
It's also very enlightening.
Oh, there is a way to map out were to weld and you can do all the welds from inside the tower, you just need to penetrate both pieces of steel.
Put Racer Chris' kit in tonight. Very easy to do. The only thing is if you have coil overs in the back, the top perch might hit the new shock mount. I'll be using a clevis to pin adapter, so it won't be a problem. The parts are very nice and his welding is great on the parts.
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Nice job ! That isn't an easy job but you made it look fantastic !!!!!!!!
Matt,
since you have eyelet shocks and a clevis adapter, I was thinking the easist way to prevent the spherical bearing from moving is to re-make the top bushing with a larger od that fits snugly in the bore of the retaining plate.
Otherwise you need a solid bushing that completely replaces the spherical bearing.
As far as coilover top perches interfering with the modified shock tower, I always use a stock top perch, modified to accept the smaller diameter spring. Tall aluminum perches are also available.
since you have eyelet shocks and a clevis adapter, I was thinking the easist way to prevent the spherical bearing from moving is to re-make the top bushing with a larger od that fits snugly in the bore of the retaining plate.
Otherwise you need a solid bushing that completely replaces the spherical bearing.
As far as coilover top perches interfering with the modified shock tower, I always use a stock top perch, modified to accept the smaller diameter spring. Tall aluminum perches are also available.
QUOTE(Racer Chris @ Sep 28 2013, 06:41 AM)
Matt,
since you have eyelet shocks and a clevis adapter, I was thinking the easist way to prevent the spherical bearing from moving is to re-make the top bushing with a larger od that fits snugly in the bore of the retaining plate.
Otherwise you need a solid bushing that completely replaces the spherical bearing.
As far as coilover top perches interfering with the modified shock tower, I always use a stock top perch, modified to accept the smaller diameter spring. Tall aluminum perches are also available.
My plan was to just make a solid bushing to replace the spherical bearing. There shouldn't be any trouble with the top plate as it will end up below the mount because of the clevis adapter. I'll try to remember to get a pick once it's all together. I should have the shocks Tuesday or Wed.
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