I am currently in the middle of an engine clean-up on a 2.0 I bought that was a running engine. It was recomended that I check the continuity of the wiring harness before putting it back on the engine. Good advice, would be able to see if I have any bad wires.
How do I go about doing this? Engine mechanical is fairly easy for me but I'm not an electrical guru at all. I have a multi meter.
Point me in the right direction please.
Sean
My Progress Thread
Full Version: Wiring Harness
You'll want OHMS, and you might have to plug your cables into different holes.
Touch one terminal to each and of a wire and the value should be very very small. Very straight forward.
Touch one terminal to each and of a wire and the value should be very very small. Very straight forward.
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DD is quite right I did'nt find it too hard but kinda tedeous work. Every terminal has to be removed from the plastic plug blocks. I marked with perm marker dot's on ea wire and only the #1dot on the plastic blocks to put them back in the right order. I did it cheap and easy and cost effective and quick did not have to order anything. I cut off all the old caseing, inspected all wires for flexability of the insulation. I know I will get bad press on this one the main body of the harness I covered with cheap black spiral wrap. It looks good to me bends easyly and is thick enough to keep the wires from rubbing anything. For all the injectors and sensors different color heat shrink form the spiral wrap main harness to the part. Then different sizes of alagator test clip terminals that had only Red or Black stretchy BOOT. They worked great for me. Two more things I did related to the push on terminals. There are two clamps on each terminal, one holds the plastic insulation and the one for the money is the copper wire to the terminal. A simple tug on the terminal to see if it's loose or a bad wire is not good enough as the terminals insulation clamp holds the wire quite firmly. I released the insulation clamp to tug on the wire. What I found center trigger terminal fell off green copper rot. And two others were green but survived the tug test. The factory cut these in so well I couldnt even see the green untill I relesed the insulation clamp. I reused the terminals that had green copper cut the wire back 3" and soldered in new wire onto the terminal. The Last Thing I tension checked every terminal before putting it back in its block by pushing it on a spade of a used part then pinched tighter if needed. On the ECU block With spiral wrap no need to pull all it's terminals, but tension check them with a feeler gauge. Find a size that snugs into the majority of them you will find others that wont touch the gauge, pinch those closer. Mine had both 12v input loose and the ground and one on the trigger points center wire. That's the cheap and quick way out I took for an FI harness repair. See Pic injector boots and the spiral main and an freon shradder valve i silver soldered to my injector manifold. I use an old freon gauge set to check my fuel pressure.
Group: Members
Posts: 99
Member No.: 3060
Joined: 4-November 04
Location:
Sarasota Florida
DD is quite right I did'nt find it too hard but kinda tedeous work. Every terminal has to be removed from the plastic plug blocks. I marked with perm marker dot's on ea wire and only the #1dot on the plastic blocks to put them back in the right order. I did it cheap and easy and cost effective and quick did not have to order anything. I cut off all the old caseing, inspected all wires for flexability of the insulation. I know I will get bad press on this one the main body of the harness I covered with cheap black spiral wrap. It looks good to me bends easyly and is thick enough to keep the wires from rubbing anything. For all the injectors and sensors different color heat shrink form the spiral wrap main harness to the part. Then different sizes of alagator test clip terminals that had only Red or Black stretchy BOOT. They worked great for me. Two more things I did related to the push on terminals. There are two clamps on each terminal, one holds the plastic insulation and the one for the money is the copper wire to the terminal. A simple tug on the terminal to see if it's loose or a bad wire is not good enough as the terminals insulation clamp holds the wire quite firmly. I released the insulation clamp to tug on the wire. What I found center trigger terminal fell off green copper rot. And two others were green but survived the tug test. The factory cut these in so well I couldnt even see the green untill I relesed the insulation clamp. I reused the terminals that had green copper cut the wire back 3" and soldered in new wire onto the terminal. The Last Thing I tension checked every terminal before putting it back in its block by pushing it on a spade of a used part then pinched tighter if needed. On the ECU block With spiral wrap no need to pull all it's terminals, but tension check them with a feeler gauge. Find a size that snugs into the majority of them you will find others that wont touch the gauge, pinch those closer. Mine had both 12v input loose and the ground and one on the trigger points center wire. That's the cheap and quick way out I took for an FI harness repair. See Pic injector boots and the spiral main and an freon shradder valve i silver soldered to my injector manifold. I use an old freon gauge set to check my fuel pressure.
Pic of wiring
It is not necessary to remove the wire terminals from their plastic housings just to check continuity, in fact I would recommend that you do not, so that the wires don't get misorganized.
There is also information on Brad Anders fine website about how each wire in the FI harnesses are numbered. It maps out both ends of each wire from the ECU connector to each branch. Beware that there are several important wires (circuits) in the harness that do not go to the ECU connector housing such as the fuel injector grounds and the Thermotime switch.
Also, this process wont identify or fix other important conditions in these old harnesses...wire terminals that have internal corrosion, or lost there compression...
There is also information on Brad Anders fine website about how each wire in the FI harnesses are numbered. It maps out both ends of each wire from the ECU connector to each branch. Beware that there are several important wires (circuits) in the harness that do not go to the ECU connector housing such as the fuel injector grounds and the Thermotime switch.
Also, this process wont identify or fix other important conditions in these old harnesses...wire terminals that have internal corrosion, or lost there compression...
I should just send it to you for a rebuild but can't seem to find the cash, maybe that should be my christmas present to myself. 
Well if its in reasonable condition, it can be repaired cheaper...I do that too whenever possible...But I need to see it to give a scope of repair and cost...
QUOTE(bowlsby @ Dec 16 2004, 09:51 AM)
Well if its in reasonable condition, it can be repaired cheaper...I do that too whenever possible...But I need to see it to give a scope of repair and cost...
What's your timeframe right now, i know wtih the holidays and all thing get backed up.
I could get to it between the holidays, or after, just get it to me when you are ready.
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