Hi Guys,

I'm coming to the last legs of my 3 year odyssey doing a 3.6L conversion in my car.

I went with a '93 964 motor and am trying to figure out which 3 wire oxygen sensor will work for my car. The O2 bung on the heat exchangers is on the left side and need an ~4 foot length on the cable for the sensor to get to the factory wiring harness.

Anyone have a suggestion as to which bosch sensor will work for me. I don't want to go with a generic sensor and extend the wires as I have been told that soldering O2 sensor wires is not a good idea.

Thanks for your help.

Mike

Call Patrick Motorsports as they should know. Looking forward to seeing the finished gem.

Oh please post findings so those after you will know.
Thanks

Thanks. Bought a lot of parts from Jim Patrick , but for whatever reason this one has them stumped. They send me a generic sensor that I'd have to lengthen by a few feet, so still looking for other suggestions.

I have to check but if i recall correctly i had to bundle up a lot of wire because it was too long.

However, my O2 sensor is on the passenger side ...

Most Autozones or other FLAPS that carry generic brand o2 sensors are way short--as you are aware of. Try to get your dedicated o2 which has the correct length from Porsche, or one of the parts houses (EBS racing).
If you are good with a soldering gun, heat shrink, and basic wiring you can go the diy route.
When you are ready....place it in the high-noon position (in collector) into the passenger R side, just like Andy's header.Click to view attachment

I hear what you guys are saying, but unfortuntely the exhaust I got from Patrick already has the bung on the drivers side....

Mike, pm me and I'll send you an o2 bung, that you will need welded to the other side header. Also provide you an o2 threaded cap for the wrong side.
That's uncommon to see the o2 for a mid engine on the drivers side. Jim should notify his exhaust contractor that the 914 is not rear engine
Marty

FWIW, I seem to remember somewhere I had heard that you shouldn't solder wires or connectors to the O2 sensor, but rather use crimps. I don't remember why, but I think there was a thread on the 911 BirdBoard on O2 sensors that addressed this.

I think the best solution would be to take Maltese Falcon up on the O2 bung and plug!

Why does it matter which side?
You are only getting 50% of the mixture anyways, does it make a difference which side it comes from?

rich

The only reason not to solder is if the wire type is not compatible with the solder used. Some O2 sensors have stainless steel wires.

There are a lot of urban legends about soldering O2 sensors. Most are false.

Thanks for all of the comments guys. The reason I was not going to solder is that the generic O2 sensor instructions from Bosch state on the very first line that the wires should not be soldered. I figured that those guys were a heck of a lot smarter than I am.

I'm going to take Marty up on his generous offer and just have another bung welded to the passenger side. That will hopefully shorten the distance enough that I can use the stock 964 sensor.

Will let you all know how it goes.

Thanks.

Mike

The solder issue might be related to how the O2 sensor gets it's outside air, so it can determine the O2 difference between exhaust gas and the surrounding air.

A quote from a description of an O2 sensor:
The outside of the bulb is exposed to the exhaust gases while the inside of the bulb is vented internally through the sensor to the outside air. Older style oxygen sensors have a small hole in the body so air can enter the sensor, but newer style sensors breathe through their wire connectors and have no vent hole. Grease should never be applied to the wires where they enter the sensor, because it would prevent proper air circulation. So will dirt and other contaminates.


The complete article is here:
http://www.linnbenton.edu/auto/scope/o2.htm

Jim

Soldering changes the current carrying capacity of wires. It travels on the skin of the wire. If you have 10 wires carrying current on their surfaces and solder happens, you've moved the current path to the skin of the joint. It's choked down "downwind" of that joint so a low current circuit the error-percentage is a lot.

Much less surface area.