Had such a blast today at my first trackday in my Silver car. It ran like a champ, and was sticking to the corners like glue! .

I did, however boil my brake fluid after flogging the car through the 3rd 30 min session. I noticed the fade early and was able to stay in low gear and cruise to pits, but it was scary none the less. It has 5-lug vented rotors, so this surprised me. I hear that old fluid might have been partly to blame? Any other suggestions? It was not a hot day (60's).

-Ross

Hey man, I wasn't shooting the picture!! Plus, with all these identity thieves running around, one can't be too careful...

Agreed, old fluid and perhaps not high temp racing fluid. I use ATE Super Blue in everything and have been very satisfied with its performance. Brake fluid of the Germans! & made in Germany no less...

Though oddly I do not see the 'blue' variant I currently have stocked on my shop shelf... perhaps they stopped making that color or it is just out of stock? Either way, one of the nice features of ATE was the same chemical composition of their ATE Super Blue and Yellow, with just a different color so it was more evident when the entire system had been flushed out of the old fluid from year to year etc.

http://www.tirerack.com/brakes/brakes.jsp?...;cat=BrakeFluid

http://www.ate-na.com/www/ate_us_en/themes...bf_info_us.html

Congrats, always good to see a fellow teener enjoying their cars on the track,

AHHHH! Apparently 'blue' colored brake fluid is now illegal in the U.S... or was for the past 15 years and ATE Super Blue has just now been caught. Not for functional reasons either... because someone might confuse it for washer fluid?!

See here: http://www.e90post.com/forums/showthread.php?t=878694
(forgive the BMW link)

I will cling to my last 2 cans of ATE Super Blue tightly! At least the yellow Typ. 200 is the same, no more easy flushes! Ha, that said I'd still recommend ATE 'TYP 200' as the yellow/amber version is known. 914 is looking good, next time you'll have to get a spotter with a camera track-side. Then we can asses the lack of body roll (hopefully) relative to the factory 914 suspension!

Ross, are you coming to the VW/Porsche reunion again?


Edit

Oh, I see you are in Colorado now. I guess you won't be making it...

Excellent Ross!

Obviously you don't know that brakes are for woosies! That said I had the same problems with my aluminum Willwoods.

I don't know what you have for brake ventilation, but I use stock 993 brake deflectors fastened to the A-arms (~$18 each). Keeps 'em a lot cooler without ducting and back-plates, and directs the air into the rotor centers. I use Motul. It's got a higher temp than Super-Blue and gives me a better pedal feel... at least I think it does. ATE 200 boils for me easily on the track

Your car looks great.

Shiny side up!

p.s. We met at an Arkansas MUSR a few years back. I was without my car that year (blown R&P a week before the event) but had fun anyway.

Sounds like an awesome time. I can't wait to hear the details.

We went to a track day a bout a month ago. Two Boxters has brake fade because of boiling brake fluid. Both guys bleed the brakes and went back to the track with no more issues.

Before I take my car on any track, I would bleed the brakes and check pd thickness.

Mike

Fortunately I have one can of the blue juice, and have blue in it now, so I'll have at least three easy changes!

I don't have any pictures form the track day, but I do have some photos from autocrosses lifting the inside front wheel off the ground, which I hear is a pretty good indicator of stiffness.



I absolutely remember meeting you at MUSR! When you are uding thos ducts, did you remove the dust cover plates on the back side of the rotor?



I was glad not to blow anything up, certainly!

Motul RBF600 and regular bleeding is all you need.

Way to go ross

--DD

Hey Ross, nice to see you out doing a track day! I see you have a 2.4 in the silver car, what's the story on that engine? Jon

Good to see you got out there Ross!

No more super blue. Use ATE Typ 200. Same thing w/o the dye.

Stop using your brakes so much.

Get cooling ducts. If you have cooling ducts... read above.

I agree with Erc. Your brake fluid was old and needed a complete flush and bleed. Quit using your brakes so much. I rarely touch mine except to respond to traffic or set the suspension for a corner.

Oh, and if you really want suggestions, get off that fender. Body work is not cheap.

I don't know as much about the engine as I wish I did, as I only have a basic build sheet, but it was a 1.8 with 71mm crank+rods and 103mm pistons (2366). Its also got dual valve springs to let it rev a bit higher, though I hear the exhaust stops it from breathing properly far before the redline. The engine itself may be for sale here in a bit if it doesn't let go first!


Glenn, its a shame I didn't get out to one of the MCSCC events, I had no idea how much fun it could be!


Cooling ducts will be ordered shortly. I pulled the wheels off and upon close investication it looks like the metal pad backing is actually rubbing the aluminum of the hub a bit, I'm sure that's not helpful heatwise... I believe the front calipers are Volvo types. Maybe just grind the metal edge down a bit?



You are right about not hitting the brakes! But with the speedo reading 120(small tires though) I figured I ought to rub off a little speed .

Ross,
Did you get the accusump in? How'd you like Apollo on the track?

Thomas

I have not done it yet! I really need to take the time to get that done! Apollo was unbelievable. I would just turn in, and the car would oblige. handled better than my buddies newer Cayman S in my opinion, although I was on DOT-R tires. I need to get a goPro before the next event so I have some evidence!

-Ross

Or just mount your phone in the window with Harry's lap timer...

Thomas

Ross , we always do a couple things to our T4 2.0 club car before events, besides the simple things like checking belts, hoses, CV's , brake pads, ; we change oil/filter, check+set valves, bleed brakes, (flush after 2 events), and lube the (elephant racing) trailing arm bushings. Take an extra set of pads with you, especially for a 2 day event. I also stuff a small paper towel around the inside of the brake fluid reservoir. That's in case of a boiling event, easier to clean as the mess stays in the paper. Get yourself some sticky Toyos or Khumos and enjoy that big T4 103mm torque out of the turns !
Marty + Matt

Thomas, I'm afraid I have a windows phone, so no lap timer ( last time I checked).

Marty + Matt, I'll have to get a checklist and make sure to go through each of those before the next event, which is the last week of October (hopefully no snow). My current tires are Nitto NT-01's which seem to be decently sticky, and should last me through the end of this year at least.

For my 1000'th post, I have attached a few shots of the damage to the hub from the brake pad. My plan is to take a grinder to the metal lip and take enough of it so it clears. Anyone see problems with that?
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

pic - super blue

Ross,
That's not the hub...that's the rotor hat! Dude... Not good!

Thomas

I'm gonna guess you have the Volvo 4-pot calipers? If so, yes, with some pads you have to grind the metal away. I noticed it when I went and put a new set of pads on my calipers that it rubbed on the rotor hat. It's not a huge deal.. take a fine rasp, clean off the burrs, and grind down the metal backing on the pad..

No harm, no foul.

That's not the rotor hat either... That's an aftermarket cool rotor block off plate. Probably needs it because of the size pads in the Vulva calipers.

I'd probably make some changes.

Edit: it appears to possibly be a spacer to properly center the rotor. Cool rotor block offs should go in the back.

Maybe these photos will make it clearer. I'm running 911 struts, and the rotor is bolted only to the aluminum disc, which in turn is bolted to the hub. The other side of the rotor is floating.

Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment
Click to view attachment

Those are some sort of hat... Doesn't look as bad now that it's zoomed out...