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0396
I'm about to rebuild my first type 4 engine and about to install the rods on the crank.
I plan on " plastic " gaging them for their crush spec. For those before me / engine masters -smile.gif. What sort of numbers should I expect once I plastic gage them?
...using a 1.8 case with 2.0 crank and rods.
This project has been on the back burner for over three years and it's gaining steam now.
Thanks in advance for your guidance.
piratenanner.gif
reharvey
Something close to .002
0396
Thanks, any other suggestions out there-smile.gif
TheCabinetmaker
I'd have to look at my book to be sure, but that does ring a bell. Quick google search should tell you, or someone will be along with your real answer. I am sure that you want the green plastigauge.
0396
QUOTE(The Cabinetmaker @ Sep 29 2013, 03:42 PM) *

I'd have to look at my book to be sure, but that does ring a bell. Quick google search should tell you, or someone will be along with your real answer. I am sure that you want the green plastigauge.


Thanks for the advice. As for Internet, I've tried that with out much success -sad.gif. Another thing you just taught me.....green plasticgauge never knew they can in different colors. I guess it must correspond to the spec that ones looking for.
Thanks again
TheCabinetmaker
Well, I checked earlier and I didn't find what I was looking for either. I'll look in my specs book tomorrow if no one weighs in.
pcar916
The product is called PlastiGage and it's been around... well, seems like forever. Make sure you get absolutely all of it when you're cleaning up. It'll ruin a bearing.

Good luck
Michael RD
Plastiguage is like a precision wax. At a machine shop I worked at we included it with crank and brg. kits we sold. Green is what you want, the other is red for greater clearances. 002 - .0025 is correct for most applications. ( Haynes p-11 shows .0008 - .006 ) Lay appx. 1/4 - 3/8 lengthwise on the journal ,torque the nuts/cap then remove and guage it. DONT rotate the rod when torqued as this will tear it and provide inaccurate reading. It usually just scrapes off with a wipe of your fingernail.
DBCooper
QUOTE(pcar916 @ Sep 29 2013, 05:57 PM) *
Make sure you get absolutely all of it when you're cleaning up. It'll ruin a bearing.

Huh. I've never heard that before. I've used it for about 40 years now and I guess I do wipe it off after use, but it's supposed to be oil soluble and if I remember right is guaranteed not to harm an engine. Works well, I know, and has saved my ass more than once.


0396
QUOTE(Michael RD @ Sep 30 2013, 09:04 AM) *

Plastiguage is like a precision wax. At a machine shop I worked at we included it with crank and brg. kits we sold. Green is what you want, the other is red for greater clearances. 002 - .0025 is correct for most applications. ( Haynes p-11 shows .0008 - .006 ) Lay appx. 1/4 - 3/8 lengthwise on the journal ,torque the nuts/cap then remove and guage it. DONT rotate the rod when torqued as this will tear it and provide inaccurate reading. It usually just scrapes off with a wipe of your fingernail.



Thanks! Just checked all the rods, they were .002 "Just learned .002-.0025 for most application"

All, thanks again piratenanner.gif
Dave_Darling
I think the Wilson book mentions a spec for Plastigauge?

(Book link at Amazon, since I didn't see it listed at Pelican: http://www.amazon.com/Rebuild-Volkswagen-a...lson+volkswagen )

Mine is packed in one of a dozen or more boxes labeled "BOOKS - DD", so I can't tell you what the spec is.

--DD
Jake Raby
Buy a micrometer, and a bore gauge.
DBCooper
Yup, if you build a lot of engines you need those tools, to know what you have and what you need. And feeler gauges, of course. If you're an amateur then you depend on your machinist and plastigauge. Trust, but verify. And feeler gauges.


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