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mrbubblehead
it would be nice if we had a paint and body forum in our beloved 914world to ask these kind of questions ...

i have spent months and months scraping seam sealer and under coating and sand blasting rust and alot of welding. i then put a coat of rustolium primer to temporarily protect the bare steel until all of my metal work is finished. then plan to blast off the rustolium one section at a time and shoot an epoxy primer over the bare steel.

now my question to you paint and body gurus. is it necessary to re-seam seal the seams?

it was such a pain staking task removing every spec of seam sealer (at times with a dental pick) i hate to apply anything that caused so much rust in the first place. im glad i took the time to strip the original sealer out of there. because even though it looked in tact and in good condition i would find rust underneath it. now im sure it will be rust free.

if i do need to reaply the seam sealer, when do i do it? to the bare blasted metal? after the epoxy primer? what type of seam sealer should i use? i really dont want to have to buy the special wurth gun. the original sealer look is of no concern to me.

as far as undercoating, if it is necessary i thought about taking the tub dowm to have the bottom and fender wells rhino lined but i hate adding any unnecessary weight.

this car will be driven alot if not daily except for rainy days.

any thoughts

tia
r_towle
Yes, it's necessary or moisture will get into the seams and creat more rust, then pop the paint.

Seams seal prior to the color coat
PanelBilly
And the bed liners are very light. If your looking for the lightest car for a race, it does add weight, but modern bed liner is engineered to add as little weight as possible. Check out my build and see kevlar undercoat
jaxdream
The 73 tub I got was from a guy that run a Rino Liner shop here in town. He coated the interior not the outside anywhere part , this stuff just peeled off like an orange. Not a lot of adhesion , must of not preped well , and it was about 30 LBS worth , thick and rubbery.

Jack
mrbubblehead
panelbilly, do you have a link to your thread?

jaxdream, that sucks. i am just thinking out load right now. i need to do more research. i am just looking for options and rhino lining was the first thing i thought of.
boogie_man
It's a lot of work but I felt it was very much needed to seal it good for good I sanded
and took off the caulking and replaced it with wurth, when that cured, I then shot the entire underside with SKS gravel gaurd and when that cured I scuffed every nook and cranny then painted it. Well worth it for the long run IMO just take your time as the pay off is a good sealed underside.

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Scott
mrbubblehead
woah! i like that scott. i like the way you painted it the body color. did you primer it first THEN apply the seam sealer and undercoating?
PanelBilly
First I painted it with an industrial finish and then did the liner. The engine bay and fuel tank were also done.

Click to view attachment

Click to view attachment
mrbubblehead
damn that looks good too panelbilly..... do you explain the process in your thread? if not could you explain it here? and the the paint and liner you used? did you leave it black or paint it the body color? did you primer the steel first?
CptTripps
FWIW, here's how I did the interior of my 73. I imagine it would work well for the undercarriage too.

I used rattle-can etching primer, then seam sealer, then Herculiner, then 2k primer, then paint.

The Herculiner went on a lot thinner than typical "RhinoLiner" and was only $60 a gallon at the time. The pail weighed about 7lb full, so to doesn't really add that much weight to the car.

If I had to do it over again, I'd skip the seam sealer and just cake the Herculiner in there. Others may disagree with this though.

Here's a few pics of the process I used. Again, I might skip the seam-sealer next time. Although, it's encased in 3 coats of rubber Herculiner, and primer, and paint...so maybe it'd be ok.
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