I am stripping the tub and trying to get the welding finished as much as possible so I can get the finished parts into primer. On the list is:

1. Figuring out what needs to be altered in the engine bay. Do I have room for the driver pull mechanism for the engine cover latch? Seems I heard there wasn't room.

2. Find the right mount. I would like to finish up the welding so I can paint, so deciding on a mount is part of it. ANy suggestions regarding a mount for a 3.2?

3. Metal work the many many welds in the floors.

Bump - I have a 3.2.

Do I need to remove the engine bay latch?

Any preference for mounts. pros/cons? I know you are out there.

And thanks.

-Warren

I have a 3.2 with what appears to be the stock engine latch in the stock location.

You could always do a test fit before committing to cutting the tub.


I didn't have to cut anything for my 3.6L but i did rotate the intake down and got a different elbow to fit the air cleaner.

I know of a few 3.2L conversions where people flipped the upper intake to get more room for the plenum and filter.

Thanks,
I know that sooner or later I will need to do a test fit. My idea, and I am interested in reactions is to try to do as much welding and grinding all at once so I can get a nice paint coat on the engine bay without later burning half of it off. If you have a 3.6, you should have 0.4 less room for an engine bay latch, so I am keeping it for now.

Also, do most people cut a hatch in the firewall for distributor cap and fan belt issues? It sure looks like a hard spot to get to once the engine is in place.

Not hearing a lot about mounts yet, so feel free. My original plan was to weld one myself, but lately I am cooling off towards that idea. I would probably be getting it right on the 5th try.

no idea what the 3.2 needs,but standard hood pins fit the rubber bumper holes and go through the grill work.. .. no latch, no cable pull......

But it sounds like you can keep stock..

Rich Johnson bulkhead mount and no cutting for fan belt access. I changed the belt once when i replaced my fried alternator and it wasn't *that* bad once you figure out how to get a wrench in there ...

Most people just remount the AFM 45 degrees towards the firewall to clear the engine lid latch. Check out my blog in my signature for a picture. As Andy said you can flip the intake manifold, but that's more work.

I have a 3.2 and didn't do anything with the engine lid latch... it fits fine, as Steve said, just rotate the AFM and you are good to go.

I used the rich Johnson mount with my 3.2....no latch changes at all. Slight extension and rotation of the AFM. I actually used the stock airbox and the heater blower motor.

Thanks, I am gonna try to keep heat too. I have some pics I took of your car, I ougta just look at them.

I too just extended my AFM and kept my engine lid latch.

I tried rotating the intake manifold 180 degrees, but it seemed like more work rather than simply relocating the AFM a little. I could not figure out how to maintain the stock air cleaner box though, so mine is one of those fabric cone air filters (I still dont like those things).

I made my own mount, and fabricated my own sheet metal. I had patterns for the sheet metal, and I designed my own mount back in the early 90's when I put the 3.2 in the track car.

At one time I was set up to sell sheet metal and heater block-off plates, but it is a lot of work.

Click to view attachment

With the intake manifold turned around the airbox fits without cutting the engine lid.
It takes a bit of work to set up the throttle body this way though.

How do you setup the throttle body?

We didn't take notes so would have to do it again to remember everything.
I do remember trimming a fitting that interfered with the fan housing, and some mods to the arm on the throttle shaft so we could attach a stock 4cyl throttle cable.

No latch on mine. Im the driver not the designer.

Clears just fine.

Oh Mark, I like that! Also adds to the "swirl" of the charge!