s there anyway to test the coils?? I have a system & some extra parts and want to make sure everything works..

Flip a coil over and add power and a pulsed ground. Then put your tongue on the spark plug lead. If you get knocked on your ass, it works.

If you are a wus, you can try a spark plug and cable too. Make sure the spark plug is grounded to the power source.

DAMMIT! That's exactly what I was gonna say!!!

--DD

You should use two spark plugs as these look to be wasted spark coils. In reality they are like any other coil. Apply power and trigger them. Its just voltage, so it only hurts, amperage is what kills.

If you want to test the hall sensor, you can do that by hand and inject a signal through it, and wave a screwdriver in front of it. It will generate a pulse, you need an O-scope to see the pulses though.

I doubt you have an issue with the missing tooth wheel, unless its missing more

Only way I can see to test the logic section is hook it up and run it in parallel on a running engine. ground the plugs and see what you get.

Things You'll Need

Wrench set
Ohmmeter

Instructions

1. Use a wrench to loosen the bolt on the negative battery cable and set the cable aside in a spot that will not allow it to touch the battery while you are working.
2. Locate the coil on your vehicle. Remove the center wire that runs from the coil to the distributor, then remove any wires connected to the positive and negative terminals on the coil with a wrench. On older-style coils these will be posts on the top of the coil. Newer systems using coil packs that require you to unplug the wiring harness connector and use the pins in the connector for your points of contact.
3. Place the first test lead from your ohmmeter on the negative terminal and the other on the positive terminal. Read the resistance across the terminals from the meter. You are looking for a range between 0.70 and 1.7 ohms. Anything outside that range indicates a defective coil.
4. Move one of the test leads from the side terminal to the high-tension terminal in the center of the coil. It doesn't matter which lead is on which terminal, because you are reading resistance, not amps or volts. Note the reading from the ohmmeter--you are looking for a reading ranging from 7,500 to 11,000. Anything outside that range indicates a defective coil.
5. Reinstall the coil wire on the high-tension terminal and the other wires on the side terminals. Install the retaining nuts on the side terminals and tighten them with a wrench.
6. Reattach the negative battery cable to the battery terminal and tighten the bolt that holds the clamp.


Stolen from EHow. The positive & negative terminals on your Electromotive (GM) coils are on the bottom.

If you find a bad coil I have a set in a box ready to go to eBay. Four coils so for a V8, but the components are the same.

If anyone has a need or wants to go full programmable fuel injection I also have two Electromotive distributor replacements for a SBC, where the drive is stock Chevy but the distributor head is a 36-1 wheel. Rare part and very cool.

I have to protest here. Strongly. Milliamps kill, amps burn. Voltage in the 12 volt range have trouble generating much of any current in your body. Higher voltages will pass through, and stray millliamps going through the heart, as in chest, from the arm to ground can kill. So if you like getting zapped, ground your elbow to the car and knock yourself out. This is something like winning the lottery in reverse. Most of the time it won't happen, but that doesn't mean it can't.

Maybe you can tell I am doing my cardiovascular lectures this week and next.

Harbor Freight sells cheap plug in spark testers that simply connect to the spark plug wire and are inexpensive enough that you can carry one in each vehicle if desired.

electromotive also has a testing service available, so you might want to contact Richard Clewitt for advice if the simple tests don't pan out.