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Full Version: the debate rages on ! what to replace my failing oem F.i with
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thelogo
I cannot find a soul to trouble shoot my d,jet system

Id like to retro.fitt something better then my failing d,jet

I've see those ,carb looking f,I systems

Also.seen a cool vw rabbit system modified to run the teener aktion035.gif

My wrench says Webber s

beer3.gif here we go

What do all you guys think and what have you done

Reminder bonus point s goto cheapest ,best running idea ,useing widely available parts
Kudos to the cheap sob

But please inform of my options :stooges
Mike Bellis
Programmable EFI.

End of discussion... evilgrin.gif
JeffBowlsby
My money stands behind the factory D-Jet and L-Jet, assuming your engine is stock. Modified?....then it may be a harder question. There is help available to service them, or do it yourself, its not hard. No issues with the stock intake system hard parts and ECUs. All critical FI wear parts are available new. New TPS boards. New MPS diaphragms. New wiring harnesses. New injectors. New TS2.

Think about how much time and cost a swap to a different FI/carb system will actually take to build, install and tune? Put a $ figure on your time and you will quickly see that replacing one or more of the D/L-Jet parts is a bargain solution and your car does not stay on jackstands for long. If you cannot afford the few beans for these parts as needed, then you certainly cannot afford an FI swap if your time is worth anything.

Swap if you just want to or for kicks, but its not necessary and does not pencil.
kevin311
Megasquirt..
I had mine intstalled and running better than my tired djet ever did in one weekend.
I ran all stock sensors and injectors except the tps which took about 20 minutes to fab an adapter plate for.
There is a learning curve as far as tuning but Tuner Studio MS and its Auto Tune feature made that much easier by almost completely tuning the engine for you. Just turn it on and drive and it does all the work.

If your looking for a system I have a complete spare ECU, Relay Board and Both Harnesses that I might be willing to part with.

Send me a PM if you're interested
hot_shoe914
Fire up the grill jsharp.gif , ice down some beer beerchug.gif , invite a bunch of 914 owners over and ask them all to bring d-jet parts. You will meet and make new friends drunk.gif , learn a lot, have a lot of fun and most likely you d-jet problems will be solved. Pretty simple, really. piratenanner.gif


Shoe
ConeDodger
I can't tell from your pics but is that MPS mounted on the engine? It won't run right that way. BTDT. blink.gif
Eric_Shea
I thought that CIS system looked intriguing.

Everyone I know says D-JET.
914forme
D-jet al the way but thats just me. Grab a book and figure it out, or look up all the websites that contain info on how to do it.

D-jet Troubleshooting, start here
pray.gif
D-jet and other 914 releated stuff by Jeff and Others. pray.gif

D-jet pdf

And

914-D Jet infromation on where parts can be found.


I will say some people can't get past the logic in EFI, just like I can't get past the logic in carbs. I made it a goal of mine to learn carbs, Webers and Dells to be exact. But to say Im an expert would be a lie.
McMark
agree.gif The system that someone (yourself or a shop you trust) knows how to maintain is the best system. There's not point in getting MegaSquirt if you or your shop don't know how to maintain it. Same for carbs, with the additional caveat that it seems that most shops over simplify carbs (just bolt em on and go!). There is a lot to getting a set of carbs to run right, including getting a reliable linkage system.

Isn't Sean Malloy down in that area?
Eric_Shea
QUOTE
most shops over simplify carbs (just bolt em on and go!). There is a lot to getting a set of carbs to run right, including getting a reliable linkage system


agree.gif pray.gif

When you said: "My wrench says Webber s", I immediately thought "find another wrench". Again, carbs can be great but, now he's talking about splitting the case and getting you a carb cam and, and, and... right? Now you're into the money tree Jeff is talking about above. If not, he's the wrong wrench.
914_teener
If it is Monrovia......


I am close.... PM me if you want help.

I am running D-jet on my car. I have gone through most all the pains.

My car runs spot on with it.


Not sure why you uploaded the picture of the overturned car on the Colorado St. Bridge?
DBCooper
"...the debate rages on"? What debate? One more vote for the consensus. You have a wrench who hasn't figured out stock fuel injection after 35 years of playing with it? Hmm.... really?

People underestimate the time and dollars the switch to carbs will take, and overestimate the performance "improvement" they'll get. And that's only the initial installation, nevermind the maintenance going forward. Once the OEM fuel injection is set up right it's good for decades. Well, a long time anyway, and your car will run better the whole time. You'll be money and miles ahead by bringing the fuel injection back into spec and learning how to deal with it yourself.

Java2570
Since you haven't really specified what's happening with you car, are you sure it is the D jet causing all your woes? D jet is a pretty simple system and once you read about it and get your head around how the components work, it doesn't take much to keep it going. Why don't you detail what's going on with your car and all the smart folks here can help you fix it! Jon
DBCooper
This is another thread and L-jet, so not pertinent to you, but shows how you trouble-shoot once you understand how things work. Just a flow chart process of elimination: http://www.914world.com/bbs2/index.php?showtopic=220490

It's mostly go/no-go in black and white, so actually pretty easy once you get the concept. I grew up with carburetors, and they aren't that straightforward.


thelogo
QUOTE(McMark @ Oct 3 2013, 10:45 AM) *

agree.gif The system that someone (yourself or a shop you trust) knows how to maintain is the best system. There's not point in getting MegaSquirt if you or your shop don't know how to maintain it. Same for carbs, with the additional caveat that it seems that most shops over simplify carbs (just bolt em on and go!). There is a lot to getting a set of carbs to run right, including getting a reliable linkage system.

Isn't Sean Malloy down in that area?






I m with you man , its all about what system.someone.knows

And I have yet to find.the guy who know more.about d,jet
Then carbs ,,,

So.even if I buy a know to be.working properly f,I system from
A fellow.member here , still.no one to install it.,

My wrench.works.exclusively.on air cooled carbed.type 1 s

So he services the car great , but prefers what.he knows.dual.Webb's.,

Don't think.he plans.on changeing cam.,.just fuel.pump.and carbs on

So.that's definitely a.con
thelogo
QUOTE(Java2570 @ Oct 3 2013, 11:51 AM) *

Since you haven't really specified what's happening with you car, are you sure it is the D jet causing all your woes? D jet is a pretty simple system and once you read about it and get your head around how the components work, it doesn't take much to keep it going. Why don't you detail what's going on with your car and all the smart folks here can help you fix it! Jon



My issue is upon.start up ,,.ocne.car is.warmed.up all this go,s away but when cold.or first fired up

Stalling or engine dying when trying to let out clutch in first , I.either rev way up or engine dyes

Bucking , sputtering , uneven accelerations, surgeing , stalling





Points and.plugs.and.cap / rotor , wires nd coil are all less then 1 year old


Your though.s ,,calling all.d*jet gurus.





Desire to the point of dementia".

And I was the most hated man in all of baseball

Ty Cobb
r_towle
Carbs will do the same thing when cold.
Does your car run fine once it's warmed up?
thelogo
QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 3 2013, 08:58 PM) *

Carbs will do the same thing when cold.
Does your car run fine once it's warmed up?




After.3 block of trying not to stall

It runs perfect

Or if I drive the car every single day 25 ,miles or more

It cures.the.cold start problem , that's the only fix that's ever worked.for me
r_towle
If you drive the car daily, you have no cold start issues?

Sound like you have fuel pump and fuel filter issues.

Have him simply check the fuel pressure both when it has sat for a few day, and then again when it's running smoothly.

So, start it, and check it immediately while it's running like crap, then read it once it settles down.
thelogo
QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 3 2013, 09:10 PM) *

If you drive the car daily, you have no cold start issues?

Sound like you have fuel pump and fuel filter issues.

Have him simply check the fuel pressure both when it has sat for a few day, and then again when it's running smoothly.

So, start it, and check it immediately while it's running like crap, then read it once it settles down.



Sorry forgot to specifi , engine still is super smooth upon startup

But when put under load when cold , then problems

If I keep in neutral , when cold it will run smooth no issues
Elliot Cannon
I have had carbs on my car for 9 years and despite what someone may tell you, they have never ran as bad as you described. Even when cold. Having said that, if you go to carbs, you will have to change your cam to have them operate properly and that means splitting the case which will cost more time and $$. Find someone to help you with your djet. I know there has to be someone out there who can help. My personal feeling is, "carbs are cool but FI is smart". laugh.gif
rhodyguy
stephen provided all the links with gobs of info. buy a mitty vac from sears or elsewhere for about $30 bucks. first test your manifold pressure sensor. this will take 10 minutes. if it fails to hold a vacuum. theres your first part to buy. they're out there. every hour you spend leaning and servicing your fi system you're paying yourself what ever your mechanic charges. when the dust settles you'll have much more than $500 in the carb package if you go with dual throated carbs + tuning $.

heres a pict of a mitty vac connected to a mps. you don't need to remove the mps to perform this test. 10 minutes....

btw, brant is selling (ad in classifieds) a mps that might work for your application. priced right.

k
Eric_Shea
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 3 2013, 10:23 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 3 2013, 09:10 PM) *

If you drive the car daily, you have no cold start issues?

Sound like you have fuel pump and fuel filter issues.

Have him simply check the fuel pressure both when it has sat for a few day, and then again when it's running smoothly.

So, start it, and check it immediately while it's running like crap, then read it once it settles down.



Sorry forgot to specifi , engine still is super smooth upon startup

But when put under load when cold , then problems

If I keep in neutral , when cold it will run smooth no issues



Check for a pinched fuel line under your tank. Was your tank out recently?

This happened to me at RRC. Once under load the demand for fuel far exceeded what could be supplied through the pinched line!
JeffBowlsby
QUOTE(Elliot Cannon @ Oct 4 2013, 12:20 AM) *

...Even when cold. ...My personal feeling is, "carbs are cool but FI is smart". laugh.gif



Thats a great way to looka t it Elliot.

BTW what does "cold" mean in Paso Robles...? laugh.gif
76-914
from Brad's article, "Use a hand vacuum pump with a gauge, pull 20 in. Hg. of vacuum on the port and monitor the vacuum level for 5 minutes. Should not drop below 15 in. Hg, if so, the unit has a vacuum leak and should be replaced soon." This seems like splitting hairs but the only reason I mentioned this is one of mine holds, sort of. And the other holds to spec. The car runs perfectly with that one. The ohter one is fine as long as I'm not coming off a Hi way run or the Wx gets really hot. Then it wants to idle high or hunt a bit. Get the best one available to you as it is the heart of the FI.
rhodyguy
yep. and you save a bunch of time (or money dependent on the mechanic) not screwing with items that might be fine.
JamesM
Megasquirt, Megasquirt, Megasquirt, Megasquirt

All you will need is the ECU, some resistors for the injectors, and a maybe a TPS (optional) other then that you can use all existing D-jet parts. The NLA parts that give the most problems (MPS, FI trigger points, cold start circuit, d-jet TPS) are all eliminated. Keeps a stock look, runs TONs better, is tuneable, and way easier to troubleshoot.

Carbs are going backwards and I think would be more work/expense plus you compromise cold starts and possibility drivability and economy.

Why would you do that?



Edit:
If your wrench cant figure out D-jet and is pushing you towards carbs... find someone else to do the Megasquirt install. ... or everything for that matter


QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 2 2013, 08:58 PM) *

I cannot find a soul to trouble shoot my d,jet system

Id like to retro.fitt something better then my failing d,jet

I've see those ,carb looking f,I systems

Also.seen a cool vw rabbit system modified to run the teener aktion035.gif

My wrench says Webber s

beer3.gif here we go

What do all you guys think and what have you done

Reminder bonus point s goto cheapest ,best running idea ,useing widely available parts
Kudos to the cheap sob

But please inform of my options :stooges
Pat Garvey
QUOTE(Jeff Bowlsby @ Oct 2 2013, 11:50 PM) *

My money stands behind the factory D-Jet and L-Jet, assuming your engine is stock. Modified?....then it may be a harder question. There is help available to service them, or do it yourself, its not hard. No issues with the stock intake system hard parts and ECUs. All critical FI wear parts are available new. New TPS boards. New MPS diaphragms. New wiring harnesses. New injectors. New TS2.

Think about how much time and cost a swap to a different FI/carb system will actually take to build, install and tune? Put a $ figure on your time and you will quickly see that replacing one or more of the D/L-Jet parts is a bargain solution and your car does not stay on jackstands for long. If you cannot afford the few beans for these parts as needed, then you certainly cannot afford an FI swap if your time is worth anything.

Swap if you just want to or for kicks, but its not necessary and does not pencil.

Agree. Simple stuff if you replace a part or two and buy a multimeter. Oh, did I mention....it's original?
thelogo
QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 4 2013, 02:07 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 3 2013, 10:23 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 3 2013, 09:10 PM) *

If you drive the car daily, you have no cold start issues?

Sound like you have fuel pump and fuel filter issues.

Have him simply check the fuel pressure both when it has sat for a few day, and then again when it's running smoothly.

So, start it, and check it immediately while it's running like crap, then read it once it settles down.



Sorry forgot to specifi , engine still is super smooth upon startup

But when put under load when cold , then problems

If I keep in neutral , when cold it will run smooth no issues



Check for a pinched fuel line under your tank. Was your tank out recently?

This happened to me at RRC. Once under load the demand for fuel far exceeded what could be supplied through the pinched line!







This could be the issue , sounded closest to waht I'm experience """" the ghost
Comesith no apprent sign ,go without one too ,,,comes and go,s
Don't think the fuel tank has been out since I got or it was restoed, like 5/10 years ago
, but I'm sure the cars fuel, break ,and vacume hoses / rubber
Could all stand to be replaced ,any body else ????
thelogo
QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 4 2013, 07:11 PM) *

QUOTE(Eric_Shea @ Oct 4 2013, 02:07 PM) *

QUOTE(thelogo @ Oct 3 2013, 10:23 PM) *

QUOTE(r_towle @ Oct 3 2013, 09:10 PM) *

If you drive the car daily, you have no cold start issues?

Sound like you have fuel pump and fuel filter issues.

Have him simply check the fuel pressure both when it has sat for a few day, and then again when it's running smoothly.

So, start it, and check it immediately while it's running like crap, then read it once it settles down.



Sorry forgot to specifi , engine still is super smooth upon startup

But when put under load when cold , then problems

If I keep in neutral , when cold it will run smooth no issues



Check for a pinched fuel line under your tank. Was your tank out recently?

This happened to me at RRC. Once under load the demand for fuel far exceeded what could be supplied through the pinched line!






This could be the issue , sounded closest to waht I'm experience """" the ghost
Comesith no apprent sign ,go without one too ,,,comes and go,s
Don't think the fuel tank has been out since I got or it was restoed, like 5/10 years ago
, but I'm sure the cars fuel, break ,and vacume hoses / rubber
Could all stand to be replaced ,any body else ????













Fellow ,,member is offing up a recently removed ,know to be in full working order
Complete 1972. , 1.7 fuel injection system or any individual component for cost of shipping only
To me ,,,, first.gif hissyfit.gif first.gif

This is what makes these forums great guys

Selfless ness ,,,,

So I guess d,jet is the answer after all....

Shot out to the cheap sob ,,, aktion035.gif

And I'm going to. A car show tommaro. Am styl


Last time the guy over there had Steve McQueen 356 Porsche ,red with a huge copy of the title
It was madness smilie_pokal.gif
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