I totally lost my shifting yesterday trying to get it in first. All shifting linkage is in proper working order and connected properly but lots of free play at rear as if not connected inside.
I cannot get it in gear at all by shifter or by hand at rear.
I drained the fluid and opened the access panel and found a broken pin (pictured). Is this the pin that holds the shifter to the shift lever (part 11 on diagram)?
If so, where can I acquire this part and how difficult to install? I assume it can be done thru the access panel and that's why the panel exists, yes?
Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks and cheers!

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Measure the overall length and diameter. Go to your local auto parts store and ask if they have a selection of roll pins. Match it up and pound it in.

That is a spiral pin, much heavier than a standard rollpin.
Best to get the proper pin.
Easy for someone to mail you in an envelope...

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Jon B.
Vista, CA

I would contact Dr. Evil. I am sure he can get you one.

Thanks guys! I found the parts needed.
As for the refill on the gear oil, manual states 2.6 qts. Any opinions? More/less?

Brand: Swepco 201, Kendall, or RedLine?

I use Valvoline 80-90. A lot of people on this forum do not recommend syn gear oil. I would use exactly 2.6 if you can. Too much and you will have leaks.

good to hear you found the right part.
GL5 rated gear oil.
The synchros depend upon a specific amount of friction to work properly.
Synthetic gear oil it to slippery and will actually wear out the syncrhos.

For the amount of gear oil, fill the tranny on level ground until it can take no more...it starts pouring out the fill hole.
That is the correct amount and equals the OEM stated amount...so its one idiot proof system...

Rich

Thanks again guys! You rock!

As always, I'll remind you that you want to use PLAIN OLD GL5. No additives, no MOSO2, nothing. NOT "made for Limited Slip Diffs". "Slippery" is death to Porsche style synchros.

The Cap'n

Thanks Cap'n. Gonna use Valvoline 80/90 GL5.

So I got the spiral pin in successfully and buttoned back up. However, the cover plate is leaking fluid slowly.
I used a new gasket and torqued the nuts to 6-7 ft lbs per the manual specs. I increased torque slowly at 1 ft lb increments to 10ft lbs. it's still leaking past very slowly.
Any insight into what action to take? Should I have used a gasket sealant even if there was no evidence of previous sealant and no indication to do so in the manual?
I'm nervous to increase the torque more due to the small 10mm studs.

Don't over-tighten the nuts (6mm, not 10mm), you'll begin to pull the mag threads in the endcover. Hopefully this hasn't already happened. They only need to be snug.

The steel plate can distort, so should be dressed with a file to insure it's flat. No problem using a sealant, unless you're worried you'll lose points at the next Pebble Beach concours.

Jon B.

AS Jon said. If you need another plate let me know.....I have a new crop of 8 about to go into the recycler if no one needs one. Sealant on this particular part is not an issue.

Thanks for the feedback gentlemen. It was leaking at 6ft lbs.
Dr Evil you have a PM about a plate.

For the rest of you tail shifter hold outs, I tend to have the gasket for this leak available for free. Tail pieces as well. Not worth charging y'all

So I got things fixed up and back together thanks to you and especially Dr Evil for the new plate cover.
I have to say my fluid was black and smelled horrible. The new Valvoline, as recommended by you guys, not only was a cheaper alternative but the shifting is amazing! My tranny has not felt this good in my period of ownership. First gear is effortless and all the gear gates are smooth and have a very positive feel to them. I must have nailed the linkage adjustment perfect by accident. LOL
Thanks again for the help!

Cool, man.

I have made tail shifters feel pretty good so I understand what you are saying. It does sound like you nailed it. Good job