How do I do this, and if I do, won't the timing marks on the flywheel be off?

Thanks
John

Check out this thread . Timing marks are in reference to piston vs cam orientation. The marks indicate piston top dead center. The ignition timing is referenced from that TDC mark. If reorient the drive and distributor, you change the physical orientation but not necessarily the rotational orientation.

So turn the engine until the rotor is pointing at the spark plug wire for #1, pull the distributor, reclock the drive anywhere you want (think about this ahead of time), reinstall the distributor, loosen the adjustment nut and turn the distributor until the rotor once again lines up with the #1 spark plug wire. Rotor location/aiming vs crank rotation hasn't changed.

Thanks Mark

Very clear now

not so easy!

the dizzy keys into the drive pinion only one way!

some one else here should know how to pull out the drive pinion and re-index it.

mc mark!!!

I am not going to do it.

I can't get the electronics to work at all, while the old stuff just runs.

Between the Unilite, 6AL, Modules, and Special Coil, and two days of wasted time, I'm done for now. I don't like the fit, I don't like the clips, I don't like the wires, and I don't like the money I spent on all this stuff just for frustration.



Moving on to something more productive.

Troy, what are you talking about? That's what I was talking about when I said:

and.... how do you get the drive up enough to reclock it with out loosing the shims on the bottom of the gear????

Read the link. And I've never once had a washer fall off. Not even a close call.

I didn't read the link...... I sorry

I have the tool needed to pull the driveshaft for the dizzy. Before I bought the tool I would use two screw flat drivers to pull the shaft out. Not easy as using the tool but I got it done several times.
Tony, the tool is cheap compaired to the frustration you are going through.
Locate the dizzy where you are comfee with. It doesn't care, it only cares that you align it with number 1 when number 1 is at TDC. You can see that through the rocker arms positions (showing you that the valve is closed) and the timing mark. Remember that the drive shaft rotates about 15 degrees counter clock wise when it slides back in. I also use a small dab of grese on the shim to make sure it stays where it belongs.
Don't forget the spring, ask me how I know.

never had one come off. Strong extendable magnet works just fine to remove it. When reinstalling, rocking the car for and aft In 5th will help it mesh.

fitment, you have to 'dimple' the pass side upper engine tin. hassle if the tin has been powder coated. a piece of some type of hardwood and a bfh is the fix. i'm confused that you feel you may have to re-clock the drive.

bummer about the dough and disappointment. maybe walk away from the 'new' ignition setup for awhile and tackle it later.

When I did mine, I used the end of a Bic pen shoved down into the spring hole! It worked great, it was
exactly the right size and I just happened to have it in my tool bag.

I knowyou are right Kevin,

I have the wiring sorted out, and probably the CD and dist. I suspect I fried the coil. When I get back this week I will try with a Bosch Blue.