My car has two keys, one for the ignition and one that fits all the other locks. I would like to get it down to one key.
Right now I have both outside door handles off of the car (I'm going thru the door innards) and had a thought: Wouldn't it be easier to just take out the trunk lock and hood lock, and since I already have the door handles off, just have those all re-keyed to the ignition?
It looks like a real PITA to take off the steering column to get to the ignition switch. I had a previous experience with this on my 356 and now it's T signals don't cancel and I'm still fighting it. I just don't want to end up with two cars like that!
Thanks!
Full Version: Re-keying locks
I re-keyed all the locks on my '73 to the ignition key (for the same PITA reason you mentioned).
Now I'm for sure going to get hammered for this if there's any locksmiths on the board, but it worked out perfectly.
What I did was remove the lock mechanism and disassemble it with the correct key inserted in the lock. If I remember right the springloaded brass "gates" (for lack of the correct term) will fly out if the key isn't in the lock when you separate it from it's outer housing.....then again, maybe not, but just to be on the safe side....
If you are using the key that is meant for the lock you'll notice that all of the "gates" retract into the housing when the key is inserted. When you go to insert the ignition key into the lock some of the gates won't retract completely into the housing which is what keeps the key from working in your door and trunk locks. What I did was take the trunk lock (or which ever lock you're "rekeying") and insert the ignition key into it. Carefully grind, file or sand off any of the gates that are not flush with the housing. Blow out the key mechanism to remove any filings and debris....and WAH LAH...it is "rekeyed". The cool thing is that the "old" trunk key will still work (always good to have spare keys).
Now I'm for sure going to get hammered for this if there's any locksmiths on the board, but it worked out perfectly.
What I did was remove the lock mechanism and disassemble it with the correct key inserted in the lock. If I remember right the springloaded brass "gates" (for lack of the correct term) will fly out if the key isn't in the lock when you separate it from it's outer housing.....then again, maybe not, but just to be on the safe side....
If you are using the key that is meant for the lock you'll notice that all of the "gates" retract into the housing when the key is inserted. When you go to insert the ignition key into the lock some of the gates won't retract completely into the housing which is what keeps the key from working in your door and trunk locks. What I did was take the trunk lock (or which ever lock you're "rekeying") and insert the ignition key into it. Carefully grind, file or sand off any of the gates that are not flush with the housing. Blow out the key mechanism to remove any filings and debris....and WAH LAH...it is "rekeyed". The cool thing is that the "old" trunk key will still work (always good to have spare keys).
Taking the ignition lock and switch out is pretty easy. You don't get into the wiper or turn switches. I could get into the ignition lock in about 2 minutes with an allen wrench and a screwdriver.
In fact I had to do it one time at a driver's ed. I trailer the car down to Sebring and somehow forgot the key. I get all suited up and jump in the car-NO KEY!!! Oh NO.
Within two minutes its running. Once the lock is removed all you need is a screwdriver to start it. I switched over to a push button starter when I got home.
Remove the allen bolts from below the column that allow you to remove the cover of the column. Remove the little screw and tab that holds the lock in. Pull the lock out. Done.
Paul
In fact I had to do it one time at a driver's ed. I trailer the car down to Sebring and somehow forgot the key. I get all suited up and jump in the car-NO KEY!!! Oh NO.
Within two minutes its running. Once the lock is removed all you need is a screwdriver to start it. I switched over to a push button starter when I got home.
Remove the allen bolts from below the column that allow you to remove the cover of the column. Remove the little screw and tab that holds the lock in. Pull the lock out. Done.
Paul
I did the file method myself many years ago.
Works great and is really simple and doesn't cost anything other than your time.
My reasoning is that keys are only to stop the honest or slightly dis-honest people.
The real serious thieves will simply break a window, the ignition, or tow off the
the entire car so it wouldn't make any difference if you took the time
or paid the money to actually do it properly.
Anyway, just my $.02
--- bill
Works great and is really simple and doesn't cost anything other than your time.
My reasoning is that keys are only to stop the honest or slightly dis-honest people.
The real serious thieves will simply break a window, the ignition, or tow off the
the entire car so it wouldn't make any difference if you took the time
or paid the money to actually do it properly.
Anyway, just my $.02
--- bill
Is it true that the ignition lock portions are NLA now?
What I did on my last couple of cars is buy new ignition switches (key and electrical portions) and then rekey the remaining locks to that key. If you already have the car apart for paint or whatnot, it is pretty simple to redo the lock cylinders, as 80% of the battle is just getting them removed and reinstalled on the car.
I probably shouldn't mention this in 'public'...but my current 914 has no locks...I figured with no door glass they wouldn't do a whole lotta good anyways.
Plus, it's a good idea (or requirement) to remove the steering wheel lock mechanism on track cars.
What I did on my last couple of cars is buy new ignition switches (key and electrical portions) and then rekey the remaining locks to that key. If you already have the car apart for paint or whatnot, it is pretty simple to redo the lock cylinders, as 80% of the battle is just getting them removed and reinstalled on the car.
I probably shouldn't mention this in 'public'...but my current 914 has no locks...I figured with no door glass they wouldn't do a whole lotta good anyways.
Plus, it's a good idea (or requirement) to remove the steering wheel lock mechanism on track cars.
yup it is vey easy to rekey these locks i posted how to do it here, and some people are just intimidated by the thought of suddenly not being able to get in to there car. so thats why i do it, ihave done it before and as joe ricard pointed out in another post, the one i did for him worked perfectly
lock rekey here
lock rekey here
Thanks guys for the info, But the question really was: Is it easier to remove the trunk lock and hood lock that it is to remove the ignition switch??
I would suggest using the key that is the least worn and key your locks to that key. If the key is worn then you will quickly wear out our new locks.
| QUOTE (smrz914 @ Dec 22 2004, 01:06 PM) |
| I would suggest using the key that is the least worn and key your locks to that key. If the key is worn then you will quickly wear out our new locks. |
But I can just cut a new key to solve that. I'm just curious as to which way people would do this since my door handles are already off of the car.
Would you remove and re-key the trunk lock and hood lock, or would you remove the ignition switch instead? Which one would be easiest to do. I read the PP article on removing the ig switch and it doesn't seem to be that difficult, but if it is easier to remove the other two locks, I'd like to know.
Thanks!
| QUOTE (aylanco @ Dec 22 2004, 02:50 PM) | ||
But I can just cut a new key to solve that. I'm just curious as to which way people would do this since my door handles are already off of the car. Would you remove and re-key the trunk lock and hood lock, or would you remove the ignition switch instead? Which one would be easiest to do. I read the PP article on removing the ig switch and it doesn't seem to be that difficult, but if it is easier to remove the other two locks, I'd like to know. Thanks! |
If you've already got the door locks off I'd pull the two trunk locks, rekey, and be done with it. (IMHO)
I have a remote rear trunk lock so I don't know about it. I would think that it would be the easiest of them all. The glove box lock can be hard to reach. Easier if you remove the box itself and the knee pad. The lock for the front trunk may be the most difficult. I think you can loosen or remove the handle from inside the trunk.
I am not sure the point is which locks are easier to remove. Yes you can make a new key from your worn original but it would only be a duplicate of a worn key. To get a perfect original you would have to have it made from the key number. (Can that be done for our cars? If that is what you mean by "cut a new key" then forget what I said.)
As you noted the ignition cylinder is pretty easy to remove so if you have a clean original for the other locks have the ignition re-keyed to them. If your ignition key is the least worn have the others re-keyed to it.
The other consideration is re-keying one cylinder vs. re-keying four (or five if you count the glove box). If you have access to a variaty of pins (gates) then re-keying the doors, etc. may not be an issue.
I am not sure the point is which locks are easier to remove. Yes you can make a new key from your worn original but it would only be a duplicate of a worn key. To get a perfect original you would have to have it made from the key number. (Can that be done for our cars? If that is what you mean by "cut a new key" then forget what I said.)
As you noted the ignition cylinder is pretty easy to remove so if you have a clean original for the other locks have the ignition re-keyed to them. If your ignition key is the least worn have the others re-keyed to it.
The other consideration is re-keying one cylinder vs. re-keying four (or five if you count the glove box). If you have access to a variaty of pins (gates) then re-keying the doors, etc. may not be an issue.
well the glove box and front trunk should match the ing.
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