my passenger side CV joint is leaking at the transmission. I can order new gaskets and CV grease, but are there any other parts,pins,etc that should be replaced when doing this job?

And what's your favorite tub of CV grease to use when doing this?

For me its seals, safety wire, and drilled CV bolts. I started safety wiring these things back in 93, people thought I was nuts, seems to have caught on.

I like Lucas X-tra Heavy Duty Grease, it comes in a tube for your gun. you can get or make plates to pack the CVs if need be, or do it the dirty way. Don't forget your doctors gloves. You don't know where that CV has been.

I order this stuff from Auto Atlanta recently.


R99911318340 ELRING KLINGER RUBBER OIL SEAL 2
R99952310202 LOCKING WASHER M8 CV CONE 8
RLM47 CV JOINT GREASE - 1 TUBE NEEDED PER JOINT 2

http://www.autoatlanta.com/


914Rubber has the bolts, safety wire, tool, in case you want to go that route:

http://shop.914rubber.com/914-CV-bolt-dril...sher-914CVB.htm

Is it leaking CV joint grease or gear oil? Makes a HUGE difference in the parts list.

The Cap'n

I was gonna ask that too but went with CV

eric's grease of choice.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/catalog/item...868/6620271.htm

everything you need should be here - gasket, washers, grease

you should be able to reuse your bolts, unless you want to go with WIRED type.

http://www.pmbperformance.com/914axle.html

Appears to be gear oil.

a lifted dr evil pic from his member vendor thread of the seal I think that needs replacement. luckily the output stub is only held in by a big bolt I believe.

I have done it but I heard the old rubber seal is a real bitch to get out?

If it's the output flange seal, then it's NOT the CV joint, and all you'll need is the transmission seal, the CV joint gasket, and a set of the CV bolt washers.

The Cap'n

Recommend repacking the joint "while you are there"

Yes, I believe that is where it is leaking on the transmisson side (it was pointed out to me by another member who helped me adjust the valves a couple weeks back).

Looks like I need these parts then (assuming I just go ahead and do both left and right sides):

Transmission Differential Output Shaft Side Seal
Qty=2
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...-113-183-40-M30

CV Gasket
Qty=4(? is it 4 or 2 needed???)
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...-332-237-01-M30

CV Bolt Washers
Qty=8
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...-523-102-0B-OEM

CV Joint Grease
Qty=enough to do the job
Buy some at FLAPS

CV Joint Bolt Removal Tool - 8mm 12-point Socket Driver, 1/2 in. drive
Qty=1
http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...gi?pn=PEL-CV-T1


That look right? Not sure on the number of CV gaskets needed.

This is my driver so I am hoping to not tear it apart and then get stuck and waiting on parts to arrive. Just hoping not to be missing a circlip or other small part that I am not thinking of...

CV grease will make a nice and noticeable line perpendicular to the CV in a full 360 degrees. Gets all over the trunk floor, engine tim, muffler etc, and its normally thick and clings.

Trans oil, will do the same thing, but its well oil, no clumps unless you got an issue. It will also run out and drip.

You will need a CV seal, bolt washers or safety wire, and the transmission seal. They are not hard to get out, just be careful not to nick the base, it is pretty soft.

Tool wise, its the 4 - CV bolts out so a CV bolt tool or Allen wrench if yours has been changed. I think the center bolt is a 19mm, or 17mm can't quite remember. You will want to lock the hub in place, with two bolts and a piece of steel for leverage. Open diff in the air, it will turn. Pull the seal, and replace the seal. P/N 999-113-183-40-M30 off of Pelican. Complete in the reverse order. Repack your CVs. While you are making a mess you might as we'll do the other side.

Remember don't turn the wheel if you remove the rear stub axles, it should not hurt the bearings with out weight on them, I choose to be safe than sorry.

4 if you do all of the CVs., if you have the $s a few extra. Never hurts to have a spare set around.

There was someone last month who said the CV washers that Pelican has is not the correct ones. The one that Auto Atlanta is much different. Can someone clarify this?

http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...C%2520Each%2520

http://www.autoatlanta.com/Porsche-Locking...9952310202.html

Don't forget the trans gear oil! You're going to have to drain the trans or you will get a BIG surprise when you remove the drive flange!

Yes, 2.6-qt capacity, so get three quarts.

Yes, have 1 gallon of 80W-90 GL5 plain old gear oil. I am planning on draining the trans as part of this "project". Speedometer hookup to trans leaks oil also and I have the seal and washer for that from PP already.

As soon as I get the other 4,000+ parts on the car changed I'll have a brand new car.

I of course have no clue. Can anyone clarify?

The auto-Atlanta ones are correct. Its not so much the washers most of your cars will have them, its that the bolts stretch after 40 years, and the washer is compressed effectively making them dysfunctional. I would be to if I was screwed to a hub for 40+ years. I safety wired mine after driving to a client house and having to wash up in their sink because I lost a CV bolts on my way. I had 2 pins and one bolt. Drove 10 miles back home - very carefully. Can't really charge a guy when you destroy their sink.

The pelican ones are good for electrical connections.

Regarding the CV Bolt Lock washers:

1. If you go here: http://www.pelicanparts.com/cgi-bin/smart/...-523-102-0B-OEM the picture of the washers looks wrong as compared to the lock washers shown on AA's site.

However, if you add the part to your cart, you see this pic below. I need to confirm with PP which washer they are actually going to send. :-)

The latter are the correct Schnorr washers. I don't know what's up with the star washers shown earlier...

--DD

PP confirmed for me also that the latter washers are the ones sent. Looks like the website just has incorrect picture but correct picture shown in shopping cart.

After I got stranded by a couple CV bolts backing out and the last one snapping (thread here), I followed the advice I got here on the 'World and got a bag of new Schnorr washers and the standard hex-drive "M8-1.25 x XXmm CL 12.9 DIN 912 Plain Socket Head Cap Screw" from Fastenal.

There is honest opinion both ways on whether to use the 12 point "triple square" drive or standard hex drive. Hex was already on there, I liked not having to buy a special bit, YMMV.

* Length of the bolt may vary from 45-50mm depending. I think 45mm is stock, but check first. I think I ordered the longer ones in case I decided to try Dr. Evil's nylock trick on bolts at the output flange end.

So Pelican told me they were going to be shipping me these washers:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images...99952310202.JPG

But they shipped these instead:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/images.../lockwasher.JPG

I take it these won't actually work? Anyone know?

Looks like I need to source the washers from AA (gasp!!) or find an alternate washer.

http://www.mcmaster.com/#belleville-disc-springs/=pe4jh8

Easy!

Those will NOT work. The look like electrical washers to me. I got my washers from AA two weeks ago. I got the correct ones like the top picture. Same price.

Here is the specific washer in 100 packs

http://www.mcmaster.com/#=pe4q0h

If you have a leak at the speedo drive, do yourself a favor and order up one of Mc Mark's modified speedo drive housing. It has TWO o-rings and works slicker'n snot.
No mo leaks, and REALLY worth the bux...........

The Cap'n

Thanks for the link. Having a little trouble figuring out exactly which one I am supposed to pick here.

I'm waiting for a set of locking cv bolts in the mail after two of my cv bolts backed out and broke off on the hub side. Check link below.
Not affiliated.

http://forums.rennlist.com/rennforums/914-...-round-2-a.html

Send 'em back. Give Glenn a call (or send him an email). He's a 914 guy and should be able to help you sort it out.

--DD