Okay so I put on turbo tie rods a few months ago on my Corvair car. With the thick washers on that come with them. They won't go in far enough. They toe in just a bit. I read that sometimes those washers are to thick. So I figure to pull it off & go get some thinner washers.

All I did was tighten it up months ago. That puppy does not want to pop off. Is there a special press or tool I can use with it on my car which is on my lift? The BFH method isn't working. I tried prying it with a 2 ft breaker bar. I've stopped now as I'm pissed & likely to break something. So suggestions

I've never done this with the car on the ground, but it works REALLY well on a lift. Probably on the ground, too, if you have room to swing the BFH. Loosen the nut a few turns, then hit the end of the steering arm REALLY hard. NOT the tie rod end! The idea is to momentarily deform the "eye' in which the outer tie rod end is inserted, so you're hitting the end at a right angle to the axis of the tapered pin. It'll pop right off. Remove the nut, lift the end out and you're done. BTW, you don't have to remove the tie rod end to remove the washer on the socket end of the tie rod. Just unscrew the inner end and remove the washer, leaving the outer end attached. A little tricky getting the threads started, but it's doable. If you're getting thinner washers, they may need to be flat ground items, at least in the part that is clamped by the socket against the rack. I'd probably just spot face the existing washers to the thickness needed.

Have fun! The Cap'n

If it's not working your not hitting it hard enough. Loosen the nut. One good sharp shot on the end of the arm.

There is a flat spot right on the end.
Turn the wheel all the way out, you can hit it.

Got it! Makes sense I'll go back out later to get it. Wife has me busy for the rest of the afternoon

There are specialized tools though.

Yes there are.

And if you hit it wrong it is a nice way to F up the tie rod end.

You don't hit the tie rod, you hit the steering arm.
Most steering arms have a flat area cast in just for this purpose.
Many have an extra nub cast it.

If you plan on reusing the tie rod, DONT hit it with a BFH


Harbor freight as a separator that works just fine and costs a lot less then anything you might break with a hammer. As an added bonus, it makes the job a hell of a lot easier.

http://www.harborfreight.com/3-4-quarter-i...ator-99849.html

People don't read.


Read the Captains explanation.
Just because you have never done it does not mean its not there...

I never knew this till someone showed me.
Look at the steering arm (or any conical fitting on any steering) there is a place to hit it from the side.

It designed for this, and its not wrong.

rich

Yes this works well. I do it all the time. hitting the side of the steering arm (not the tie rod end) with a hammer transfers a shock to the tie rod end releasing the taper fit of the tie rod end and its tapered bore. Actually quite easy and quick once you have done it a few times. And no damage to anything when done properly.

I feel obligated to tell you all that I use a tool much like the HF one shown earlier in this thread. However, mine is NOT a cheapass iron Chinese casting, and I've never had to worry about the side effects of mine shattering. Over the years I've encountered a large variety of cars on which the tool, or ones like it, simply won't work because of size or accessibility. The BFH technique ALWAYS works. If you're worried about collateral damage, have a friend (one you can REALLY trust) help you. One person holds a BFH against the point you want to strike, and the other person hits that one with another. That way all the force is delivered exactly where you want it. More complex, added potential for injury, but it works well. My initial recommendation was an easy way out for an individual who doesn't want to wait (or spend the money) for a special tool, or a helper, or doesn't own a second BFH. It works well.

The Cap'n

Not for the new guys. I can still remember being a 'young pup' and wailing away on a steering arm without success. The special tool allows for a reasonable expectation of how things work - 1)install tool 2) tighten 3) it pops off eventually. The BFH method has a lot of unknown and confusion, call it magic, associated with it - 1)hit it where? 2)how hard? 3)and it just pops off? 4)what if that doesn't work? 5)am I going to damage something?

Of course, now that we have YouTube...

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=vpAwM2xH-IU

I've done it before with a BFH I Just believe its best to use the correct tool and eliminate the chance of messing things up. If you are going to replace the tie rod then I used the BFH, but if you plan to reuse it then I prefer to use the tool. YMMV

Porsche agrees with the puller route.

Again, you infer that a hammer on the cast in place nub is the wrong tool, and once again I say you are mistaken.

To each his own, but if you take a close look at any conical steering connection you will see there is a cast in place square area to firmly hit with a hammer and this in turn dislodges the part.

There are a few areas that no tool will fit on many cars, and like the Captain said, this is a good answer for those who don't want to buy a special tool for each car....though Porsche would love to sell you one...

I am not sure what it is you are implying I did not read? This was not a comment on anyone's method, I was simply stating don't hit your tie rod with a hammer if you want to re-use it, as is the instinct of a lot of people who have not done this before.

In response to hammering the steering arm, I am sure that can work just fine, I just don't like to swing a hammer at any part of my cars, especially when they are on jack-stands, and even more so when you can get a tool designed specifically for the job for 20 bucks where the only effort involved is turning a bolt.

I learned early on that any job is easier with the right tool, and now I do my best to not even attempt a job without the tool made for it (if one exists). Sure, a lot of the tools I wind up buying are cheap Chinese ones, but...

1. They do work, I have use this exact puller on 2 914s and 1 BMW in the last year with no issues.
2. I am not a professional that uses specialty tools enough to justify the cost of high end ones. Though if you wanted to use a nicer one, most auto parts stores (around my area at least) loan out tools like this for free.
3. For me, the small amount of money is worth saving the larger hassle of doing the job without the proper tool, even if I were to only use it one time.

Final thoughts:

If you don't have 20 bucks extra to throw at doing a job with a proper tool, maybe reconsider owning a 40 year old Porsche or any German car for that matter.

or you could always:

Hit it with a hammer until you get it right, not on the tie rod, don't miss, and make sure nothing is under the car when you do in case it comes off the stands.

Personally, I think 20 bucks and turning a bolt is the way to go. That is just my opinion though. My aim with a hammer is not that great but with the right tool I don't need to worry about that.

i agree with the bop it method. every mechanic I know does the same