I have the following;

* Hi-6
* PS-91 Coil
* XR-700
*Tach adapter

I think I need a ballast resistor but don't know what size, where to install it, and where to get one.

Standard ol' cheby or ? part......drops 12 vdc to 9 vdc to feed coil...should be available at any FLAPS....nuthin' special

Oh, forgot - should be installed on the hot wire from key switch prior to the coil.

I had the same setup before I went with the Mallory Unilite. The way I read the instructions a resistor is not needed. Never had one, and no problems. If you were triggering the coil directly from the XR700 you would need it, but since you're triggering the HI-6, and that in turn is driving the coil, you don't. Won't hurt anything if it's there, tho...

See the diagram on page 19: http://cranecams.com/pdf/90000700.pdf

Hope that helps.

I believe that the hot wire to the coil itself act as resistor. You shouldn't need to add one as well.

I had the same set up on my 911, works fine w/o ballast resistor

I have a MSD-6, XR-700 and Bosch Blue Coil. No Resitor is Required - at least what I have read. I have no problems and three units work great together.

QUOTE (Hartmann @ Dec 23 2004, 05:56 PM)

I have a MSD-6, XR-700 and Bosch Blue Coil. No Resitor is Required - at least what I have read. I have no problems and three units work great together.

are you running a 3OHM coil for the msd six box?

QUOTE (TC/914 @ Dec 23 2004, 05:51 PM)

I believe that the hot wire to the coil itself act as resistor. You shouldn't need to add one as well.

On a standard system, with a Bosch Blue Coil, the resistor is built into the coil. If you use a "hot coil" and feed it 12 V, it will disintegrate the center electrode in the dizzy cap. At least back when we were racing this is what we found happened. Also the spark jumping the rotor to dizzy cap poles was so bright, it would trigger the optical unit (read misfire). Of course, we may have just been stupid.

I am so confused

QUOTE (Kerrys914 @ Dec 23 2004, 06:01 PM)

I am so confused

Bottom line.....read the instructions that came with the unit. If it says to use one, use one. It won't hurt to not use one, but if the center electrode of your dizzy cap doesn't last long, you might want to put one in line.

My XR 700 instructions only say to use one if you are using a coil that doesn't have have an internal resistor. Bosch Blue has one...any other, I don't know. The instructions that come with your coil should state yea or nay.

The other part of your system, I really don't know anything about...I would have to read up on it.

No confusion!

UPDATE


The instructions I have don't address an installation like I am using.


I called Crane's tech line and they said for my set-up I do NOT need a resistor.

Cheers

"On a standard system, with a Bosch Blue Coil, the resistor is built into the coil . . . "

Slits,

Thanks for the info! I knew that SOMETHING had to be resisited, I never thought of the coil. Good to know since I was thinking of trying a high voltage Lucas Sport coil (45,000 volts).

Not any more!

TC

I installed the Crane HI-6 in a 72 914 1.7L. You don't need the resitor. Follow the instructions sheet that does not use the resistor.

FYI: The Crane system will eventually burn out your ignition rotor since it carries much more current to the plugs. Go to NAPA and buy and EP143 rotor (with a solid center conductor). This solves the problem.

Even with my MSD-6 and XR-700 the rotor and cap get a real thrashing. I inspected mine after about 3 months and all the contats areas were showing signs of metal transfer (high voltage). I can tell you that after running this system for over 2 years now, one needs to stock up on rotors and caps!. What am I using - STOCK BOSCH PARTS.

What is so special about the NAPA part except for the solid center? Has anyone gotten better results from other than BOSCH caps and rotors? I have seen some of the after market stuff and the contact areas are not even copper. Any comments?