This is what all 4 ball ends look like, give or take...
Click to view attachment

would this present a problem or will a little spit and lube make things OK?


Thanks

Wow--there's some NE rust for you. The pitting is going to wear out the bushings faster then if the balls were smooth but I would just grease them up and use them. Most people don't drive their cars more than a few hundred miles a year so it'll take a long time to wear them out.

I wouldn't put grease on them it'll attack your bushings, I use silcone, but you might like something better

Hmmm,,,...you might hand file/emery cloth each ball just a bit to round over any sharp edges, but, yeah, I'd use them. BTW I have one and need one more if you have a spare.

junk toss it ...there cheap

I say wire wheel then and put some naval jelly on them and then proper lube.

these bolts are hard to find, use them, you can always replace bushings as they wear. my guess is you will get 1000's of miles before replacement needed.



jim

Ok, thanks for the replies. Jim, that's some creative jack use.... . I think I'll wire wheel them, see how they look, and maybe dip them into some thickened epoxy and go from there.

And to think I almost tossed them....

Eyesright, I don't have an extra, I was referring to the ends on the bar and the shock bolts.

Good plan, and do what you can to not toss em, they are damn expensive for a big -a$$ bolt.

you can measure the high point, the low points, then machine smooth, nickel, copper, nickel plate, measure the high and low, machine back to .005 of original daimeters, then hard chrome plate. or, chuck in a drill in a vise, some cutting oil and crocus cloth and just polish and reuse them. if this were a 911, I know what I would do.

$105.59 each Road Atlanta
http://www.autoatlanta.com/porsche-parts/h...;section=502-00

Mort, I like the second option better....

I as well joe, just couldn't resist though.

have you pried them $85.00

no because i dont use rear bar! but i look at it like this ..i wouldnt want it to break while driving hard! and that rust looks very deep to me...85 bucks its cheap when it comes to safety and my car staying togather at 100MPH ..jmo

"Cheap"? Maybe. Easy to find? Maybe not. One of the most asked for parts when people stop by my space at swap meets. Uncommon enough that GPR was looking into making them.

The Cap'n

The balls on the sway bar look like this too? Are they replaceable?

Yeah, they're about the same. Seems pitting is worst where enclosed by bushings. Otherwise somewhat protected by undercoat spray.

So I'm still not quite sure...

Im get n alotta heat for say n toss um but thats just me i dont do anything to my 914 thats half ass right,, pay now or pay lots later i say..if you dont track the car a or AX it you prolly be ok JMO...i shoulda known they would be hard to get ther for a 914 just delete the bar! .car will turn better without it anyway ..hope you find a resolve

maybe on a ax course. driving thru the mountains in southern oregon on I-5? not so much.

No AX planned, just looking for a little reduction in body roll. I'm going to do the epoxy thing using West System (awesome product BTW) with some colloidal silica. Tough stuff.

That's my plan anyway...

Why is the ball so close to the bolt head on the AA swaybolts ? The OEM have a 'neck' about 1/2" long under the ball .......... the AA bolt ball also appears to be 'friction welded' ......

That's a good catch. Wouldn't be my first choice.

I think this is a good time to put a call out to Racer Chris. With his skills, this HAS to be something he can machine or fabricate.

Ideally, the best way would be some kind of way to convert non-swaybar shock bolts to the ball-on-end kind.

Yes, i will be making a few of these when i begin assembling my car post paint .....

Tell you what,
I'll make some of these and use a steel that can be hardened. I was looking at mine and thinking the same thing, might as well just do up a bunch of these.
I'll make them from one piece and there will be no welds.

That price only inspires others to want to make these. I think you would sell a batch if you ran them Mark. That bolt is not that difficult to machine or harden that it should require it to cost over $ 100.00.

I'm putting this together now, I do need to make some quantity to get the price right, but my target would ber $99 a set or less. I think that's easly doable. And if I can make them for less the cost will only conme down. I do need some diferent tooling but it's not too expensive. I'll post a GB thread as soon as I can get the numbers together.

-Mark

We did a rear swaybar installation recently where we had everything except the shock bolts.
Instead of ante-ing up for two expensive bolts, we drilled and tapped a pair of stock non-swaybar bolts and converted the drop links to adjustable rod ends at the lower connection.

...[/quote]

We did a rear swaybar installation recently where we had everything except the shock bolts.
Instead of ante-ing up for two expensive bolts, we drilled and tapped a pair of stock non-swaybar bolts and converted the drop links to adjustable rod ends at the lower connection.
[/quote]


See? That's why you da man.

thats how the welt bolts are also
and how the rear bar on my race car is also

That sounds like a good price, I would be in at that price ...


I thought about doing that too, it would make it possible to set the rear sway bar in a neutral position with the driver sitting in it if desired ...

There was some place in the Czech Republic that was making them and selling on Ebay several years back. Seems like they disappeared quickly though.

Found the steel we nneded an it's inbound. I'm pretty sure the price will be better that expected, but I can't nail it down until I get the run time on these.