My driver's side engine tin rubber seal is all beat and missing part of the "v" section (or lip) that is supposed to interlatch with the tin.
Can these be replaced with motor in the car? If so, how much cursing is involved?
Also, anyone have a good used driver's side engine tin rubber seal they want to get rid of?
Full Version: Driver's side engine tin rubber seal
QUOTE(boxsterfan @ Nov 16 2013, 10:14 PM) 
My driver's side engine tin rubber seal is all beat and missing part of the "v" section (or lip) that is supposed to interlatch with the tin.
Can these be replaced with motor in the car? If so, how much cursing is involved?
Also, anyone have a good used driver's side engine tin rubber seal they want to get rid of?
Note to self: This poor looking seal that is on there could be part of my overheating issues because car likes to go to 220 degrees and it is let's say....very cool here in the Bay Area these days. Would hate to see my motor on a 90+ degree day.
You can pull the old seal out fairly easily with the engine in the way. Putting the new one in would be difficult, but I think it would be possible.
The seal is held in by a C-shaped channel. The seal section is something like half an H where it goes into the channel. You could, with an extra pair of hands, slide the new seal up from underneath, and hook the lower leg of the H into the bottom of the C. Then from the top, you use a screwdriver to lever the top leg of the H into the top of the C. Tedious and fussy, but possibly doable.
Note that you will probably have to trim the seal to length first. If the engine is out, you can do that a lot more easily.
I don't think your problem is caused by this seal, but it is possible. Unless yours is missing completely, I don't believe there would be much air coming back up through there.
--DD
The seal is held in by a C-shaped channel. The seal section is something like half an H where it goes into the channel. You could, with an extra pair of hands, slide the new seal up from underneath, and hook the lower leg of the H into the bottom of the C. Then from the top, you use a screwdriver to lever the top leg of the H into the top of the C. Tedious and fussy, but possibly doable.
Note that you will probably have to trim the seal to length first. If the engine is out, you can do that a lot more easily.
I don't think your problem is caused by this seal, but it is possible. Unless yours is missing completely, I don't believe there would be much air coming back up through there.
--DD
It can be done, but you will wonder if it was easier to just drop the motor 3 ".
Also, th emore likely culprit for overheating is blockages at the fan area, get a mirror and take a look, this and at the oil cooler (which would require you to remove the engine and tin. Hopefully you can see the problem with the mirror.
Also, th emore likely culprit for overheating is blockages at the fan area, get a mirror and take a look, this and at the oil cooler (which would require you to remove the engine and tin. Hopefully you can see the problem with the mirror.
when you pull your engine to clean the oil cooler it would be the perfect time to replace all 4.
QUOTE(rhodyguy @ Nov 17 2013, 10:07 PM)
when you pull your engine to clean the oil cooler it would be the perfect time to replace all 4.
And clean all the head and cylinder fins while you are in there.
My engine tin rubber seal on the drivers side looks like it had about 10 inches of the "v" part broken off that attaches over the "lip" of the engine tin itself. In addition there were parts of the engine tin rubber seal that do have their full "v" part intact but were no longer latched over the lip of the engine tin.
I ran my hands around the rubber seal today and "re-attached" it to the lip of the tin where the seal was still fully intact. My car is also missing several grommets such as the oil pressure switch and CHT grommets.
I see AA has a whole kit for grommets, but can these be found at 914Rubber? Or can I just fashion some from my local hardware store?
I ran my hands around the rubber seal today and "re-attached" it to the lip of the tin where the seal was still fully intact. My car is also missing several grommets such as the oil pressure switch and CHT grommets.
I see AA has a whole kit for grommets, but can these be found at 914Rubber? Or can I just fashion some from my local hardware store?
QUOTE(Mikey914 @ Nov 17 2013, 06:17 PM)
It can be done, but you will wonder if it was easier to just drop the motor 3 ".
Also, th emore likely culprit for overheating is blockages at the fan area, get a mirror and take a look, this and at the oil cooler (which would require you to remove the engine and tin. Hopefully you can see the problem with the mirror.
I did not see anything blocking in the fan/impeller (sock, bag, rag, leaves, etc...).
[quote name='boxsterfan' date='Nov 16 2013, 11:16 PM' post='1957921']
[quote name='boxsterfan' post='1957920' date='Nov 16 2013, 10:14 PM']
Note to self: This poor looking seal that is on there could be part of my overheating issues because car likes to go to 220 degrees and it is let's say....very cool here in the Bay Area these days. Would hate to see my motor on a 90+ degree day.
[/quote]
The seal is there to prevent the fan from sucking up hot air that has just passed through the engine when the car is stopped and idling. You’ve been complaining about running hot at freeway speeds so that seal isn’t the solution you’re seeking.
[quote name='boxsterfan' post='1957920' date='Nov 16 2013, 10:14 PM']
Note to self: This poor looking seal that is on there could be part of my overheating issues because car likes to go to 220 degrees and it is let's say....very cool here in the Bay Area these days. Would hate to see my motor on a 90+ degree day.
[/quote]
The seal is there to prevent the fan from sucking up hot air that has just passed through the engine when the car is stopped and idling. You’ve been complaining about running hot at freeway speeds so that seal isn’t the solution you’re seeking.
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